Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Next week i'm getting GTR camber arms fitted to fix my rear camber. meaning i can have a low car and not have any camber. will show before and after results for interested parties

hey mate is that the main top arms that have a big O shape for the shock to go through? cause they dont fit as the shock hits em, as i tried putting the ones from a gtr rear cradle, so i used the stock stagea ones again which are just a str8 piece with a few curves on it.

They don't have an O-shape, they're curved however to go around the shock.

The rear of the stagea is setup the same as an R33 GTR correct? well i saw them installed on an R33 GTR so i guessed they'd work.

anywho, my mech will be fitting them, if there was going to be a problem he wouldn't be suggesting them to me (he's been under my car enough times to know the setup, he put my coilovers and whiteline bars in)

post-4352-1143663236.jpg

heres a pic of a 32 gtr one, not sure what the 33's r like, but i know for sure the width of the cradle compared to the gtr and the length of axles r different to gtr's, and shocks r on a different angle all together. that arm looks exactly the same as the stock stagea ones anyway so should be fine, unless they are made with the same bends to clear the shock as a gtr and then it wont fit. only one way to find out :D

sorry the pic is soo big..

111_1197.jpg

They don't have an O-shape, they're curved however to go around the shock.

The rear of the stagea is setup the same as an R33 GTR correct? well i saw them installed on an R33 GTR so i guessed they'd work.

anywho, my mech will be fitting them, if there was going to be a problem he wouldn't be suggesting them to me (he's been under my car enough times to know the setup, he put my coilovers and whiteline bars in)

Are you really going to run spherical bearings on the rear of a Stagea?

Ask you mechanic about NVH? Sphericals are damn noisy, particularly with a big rear sound box of a waggon.

Ask you mechanic about subframe cracking? Spericals have no give, hit a bump and it is 100% transmitted to the subframe.

Ask your mechanic about wear? Spherical bearings NEED maintenance, they get dirt, grit, sand and mud in them and they wear out FAST. They have to be cleaned regularly, then greased.

Ask your mechanic about replacement sphericals? When they wear out (which won't be long) they will need replacing, make sure you don't have to buy complete arms. Many suppliers use unique spherical which you can not buy as spare parts.

There is a thread in the supension section if you want more details.

:D cheers :P

Sorry, these aren't the ones i'm using, they were just an example.

he told me he's using good quality ones, not crappy ones that clunk etc. i can get the exact details off him, but i'm not a suspension mechanic so i won't pretend to know much about what he's doing. he just said it will fix the camber and make it very highly adjustable in the rear end for future reference (in case i make the worlds first drift stagea or something)

As i said, not suspension mechanic.

he's going to sort it out, he knows what he's doing. he's been under my car a fair few times

LOL, I hear ya! Best of luck with it mate, seeing youve had the 'trouble' for a fair while, I hope you can have it all sorted and ironed out. She'll be right....... :rolleyes:

Doing my stuff this Monday at home with a fella (for a small fee), hopefully just by adding the Bilstein shocks at standard height (maybe just one groove down at front) with stnd springs, wont have a camber issue, or tyre wear etc.

Cant wait to test it all out afterwards!!!! Had my power button on today, and with 160awkw she really cranks in the lower gears, so with the suspn & wheels/tyres freshly sorted me thinks a good Hills run is in order. :D

hey sydneykid, just a couple of questions, now that im actually able to drive my car for the first time with the new suspension, its really really stiff, and ive got both front and rear on the highest circlip possible, which is 350mm front, 360mm rear. how tight does the main top nut on the shocks have to be? ive got like 40mm of threads hanging out the top of the nut. can u adjust the stiffness at all?

it handles awesome and sooo responsive when steering around bends, just i cant rev it past 4k so i cant give it heaps just yet. :P

the new suspension, its really really stiff - it handles awesome and sooo responsive when steering around bends

Yeah, I find my shocks (stnd springs) are stiff when driving at 60kmph (potholes, bumps etc), but at 80 it is very nice, and at 100 it is schweet-as! Overall a top suspn package, and totally worth the $$$$

Well turns out while i was getting my camber and other thing sorted my worst fears were realised. all of my wheel bearings are shagged and also my CV boots have gone. my steering rack is moving in the joint and my lower ball joints on both sides of the front end are moving around. looks like suspension overhaul time for me. i have done 160,000km on the car, and not much of that was easy city driving, so i guess i should have expected it.

  • 1 month later...

hiya all i was jus wondering without looking through the whole thread page by page, are series 1+2 the same for sway bars? as i have the shock side of things sorted (adjustable koni) but feels a bit boatish in heavy cornering! also are the camber arms the same? as i would like to get some adjustable ones for the rear at some stage.

  • 2 weeks later...
hiya all i was jus wondering without looking through the whole thread page by page, are series 1+2 the same for sway bars? as i have the shock side of things sorted (adjustable koni) but feels a bit boatish in heavy cornering! also are the camber arms the same? as i would like to get some adjustable ones for the rear at some stage.

Stabilisr bars are the same on S and S2.

They are $219 each for adjustable on the Group Buy and $194 each for fixed rate bars.

Stabiliser bars are the best bang for buch handling upgrade you can make.

:thumbsup: cheers :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
    • I hear the old "I'd never use a pressure washer on my motorbike" BS in the dirtbike community too.  The only people that have had a problem from using a pressure washer on anything are the people that aren't using them properly.  If you hold the wand any more than 45 cms away from pretty much anything (radiators, wiring connectors, paint, etc) you aren't going to cause any damage.  We've had detailers wreck moulds and seals on cars at work before and the only reason why is they held the pressure washer too close and on the one spot for too long.  If you have 5% more brain power than a detailer then you know not to not do that and you'll never have a problem.
    • I'm pretty much healed up post surgery so I spent another almost full day out in the shed re-arranging everything to make room for all of the shit that I've taken off the car.  I need to get everything off the floor and away from the car for when I start making a massive mess stripping off the remaining body deadener and then for the the painting process.  Almost got the shed to a point now where I feel I can actually start working on the car again (clean shed clean mind or something!).  Almost 11 years of accumulated car parts, building supplies, tools, junk, etc have taken a long time to get in some sort of order again!  Most stuff is now boxed up and in the back shed if it's not car related.  Most people would still be horrified walking into my shed but it's significantly better than it was before!   For those that saw my separate post the other day, yeah I ordered one.... This version- I convinced myself to stop being a clown, wake up to yourself and realise it will take you 5 weeks to make one by which stage you're over working on the car again...  Maybe I am getting on top of my "mental ailments" and making smarter choices.... $1450 delivered which will take my miserable half-dutch arse a few days to get over having spent that much!  If I don't have a use for it straight away after my car is off it I might even see if there is a "rental market" for them.  See if anyone wants to hire it for a period of time.  $25 a week or something like that.  I'll worry about that when my car is actually ready to come off it though as that might be a while away!! There's now no excuses now for not ending up with an underside you could eat off! Away for kids sport the next few weekends so hopefully can get the rotisserie assembled ready to go for the car to go straight on it the next available weekend.    
    • I always use my Karcher, but it's only a little one that I picked up from Supercheap  The only issue I ever had with a pressure washer was when I was a kid cleaning coaches, they had a hi-po industrial sized petrol jobbie that would strip paint if you got to close I saying this, we have a fairly high power washer at work with a diesel powered heater that sprays water at about 60°c, it works great for removing old wax and road grime on the underbody after some foam cannon action, albeit from a "stand off" distance of a few feet
    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
×
×
  • Create New...