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The geometry of the Stagea rear end is different. The cross member is definitely wider and the drive shafts are longer. I wouldn’t be surprised if the fulcrum points in the rear suspension are different therefore giving different leverage on the springs than in an R33 therefore the different spring rates.

The springs that fit are SK’s secret. You will have to ask him of buy them from him.

Your car looks pretty low in the shot with its Factory 16's! What springs are in it there? Did you have the grooved Bilsteins in at that point?

Got my car back, man it drives straight now. i've always had it pull to the left no matter what my suspension mech does to drive it straight. turns out because the wheel bearings were tired it was pulling to one side. my left front and left rear were shot, and the front right was rusted together. i have the part numbers for the bearings, but i'm too tired to get them from the back of my car. my rear camebr is now set around -0.4 degrees, rather than the -2.5 it was previous. they're just R33 GTSt custom camber arms, i can get the brand but i'm sure as long as you get a good set they'll do the job.

so no more squeeky wheel bearings, no more bad camber. handles like a dream now. pics coming soon.

a camber kit is just a set of bushes with an off-center hole in the middle that you can rotate inside the camber arm joint to adjust it in and out a few mm. an adjustable camber arm replaces the standard arm to allow much greater adjustability

Why would you buy cheap ones over more expensive?

Build quality?

Adjustability?

Different Install?

No difference, just save $$?

So I'll need something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/R33-ADJUSTABLE-REAR...7QQcmdZViewItem

But I need them for the front.....?

I'll need this because I have been told by two tyre places up here that they are unable to adjust the camber past what it is on my front right, which has crazy negative camber.

BUT Gary indicated that stocker stageas do not have adjustable camber, so I wonder wtf they were "adjusting" and wondering if I do have something adjustable already in there..............?

i paid about $340 for camber arms, and then about $240 for the upper arms, i can't remember the name he gave the upper ones. they're high quality ones, my mech wouldn't put anything less in it. if i wanted cheap ones he said to go do it myself. i'll get the brand of them tonight, he kept the box they came in and it's raining outside so i don't really want to get under the car atm.

What i gathered from the more expensive ones is quality in construction, and durability. bearings in the joints are a big issue, if they're shitty ones they'll break down relatively soon. when you start putting more adjustable joints into suspension you need to increase the quality of the parts so they don't become the weakest link in your suspension setup

i paid about $340 for camber arms, and then about $240 for the upper arms, i can't remember the name he gave the upper ones. they're high quality ones, my mech wouldn't put anything less in it. if i wanted cheap ones he said to go do it myself. i'll get the brand of them tonight, he kept the box they came in and it's raining outside so i don't really want to get under the car atm.

pffft there is no I in TEAM!! :P

Yeah whenever you can will be fine, but I will definatly have to get something in there sooner or later.

Ok gyus, here comes part numbers. now don't hold me to it but i might have them around the wrong way.

hub seals: 40323 - 33P55: you'll need these when replacing bearings

front bearing assembly: 40210 - 05U00

rear bearing assembly: 43210 - AA100

the rear assembly is more than just the bearing, it has a mounting bracket with 4 bolt holes as well. i'll post this in the parts list sticky as well

  • 2 weeks later...

any advance on the brand of the camber and control arms yet?????

as i want to get a set ordered in the next week or so,

it would be nice to know what breed they are and approx cost etc.

There are three ways to adjust camber with the bushes. You can fit two kits in the rear with each kit giving +/-0.75 degrees.

So two kits gives 1.5 degrees adjustment with the stock 0.5 degree thats 2 degrees (thats a lot)

Basically, you just adjust it roughly with the whitelines, then fine tune with the stock adjuster.

Yeah i'm sure it's the wheel bearings. they're shagged completely, making terrible noise and such. i've done almost 170,000km on my stagea. only 2 of them were busted, but i figured i'd replace all of them at the same time.

my odometer might not be accurate either with all the clocks being wound back (got it at 97,000)

As SK said its odd for Skyline bearings to pack up. My R30 has done nearly 600k ks. still got original bearings, seals and boots. The Subaru I just flogged had SIX sets of rear bearings in 120k ks, all supplied by Subaru.

Like Terminals problems they were never ending. I stillhave the R30 and it is because of its excellent service I bought the Stagea.

well i saw them and they were pretty rooted, so maybe my car had a hard life in japan or something. they didn't make any noise when i bought the car, just after i had first used it to tow a trailer.

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