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Stagea Suspension


Sydneykid

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  • 1 month later...

hey terminal i was wondering as it must be still raining? do your rear upper arms squeak a lot?? mine do and my missus is goin mental about the noise when she drives my car. when i lube them it goes away for a bit but usually comes back the frist sign of a wet day. do oyu notice it or do ya just do waht she does and turn up the tunes?????

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Well went and got a quote for the local Pedders to install:

Adjustable rear camber bushes - $150

Subframe Alingment kit - $150

Raise Suspension - $300

Is that good/bad or ugly?

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ok now i dont know alot about this at all but i have read through the whole thread and i might have missed it but what about the r31 skyline wagon ? does any one know what sorta springs/shocks are made for them and if they would even come close to fitting a stagea s1 ?

i did have a read through pedders web site and they have quite a bit of stock for them. plus they make a low sports spring for them.

http://catalogue.pedders.com.au/parts.php?...&model=2548

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ok now i dont know alot about this at all but i have read through the whole thread and i might have missed it but what about the r31 skyline wagon ? does any one know what sorta springs/shocks are made for them and if they would even come close to fitting a stagea s1 ?

i did have a read through pedders web site and they have quite a bit of stock for them. plus they make a low sports spring for them.

http://catalogue.pedders.com.au/parts.php?...&model=2548

R31 waggons are live rear axle for a start, not IRS. They have MacPherson strut front end, not double wishbone, etc, etc.

:( cheers :(

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A question relating to a problem that has been asked before on this thread but not answered.

A while ago I puchased and installed the rear swaybar for my S2. (Found out that there was no oem swaybar in place to replace) Fitting was a breeze but had trouble getting the 'vertical' links to line up as they had to be spread outwards at least 20mm (at the point where it mounts to the suspension arm) on each side.

I scoured the thread and noticed on SK pics of the old and new bars lined up that there is the same visible difference ( on the rear only, the pic of the front bars show a perfect match up).

A couple of pages later someone asked about the problem but I think he was mis-understood as refering to the D brackets where it mounts to the chassis rails. My D brackets were tight but fitted - obviously due to the thicker material being used.

SK posted a pic of his install and (while not obvious) you can see the vertical link bent outwards the same as mine. The instructions did mention that they should be as vertical as possible, so is this a problem or do I just carry on regardless?

PS. FYI Here are the settings from a recent wheel align.

Front

Camber L was -0.75, now -1.25 R - 0.75

Castor L + 6 R +6

Toe was 0.5mm out, now 2mm in

Rear

Camber L -1.5 R -1.5 Couldnt adjust any more

Toe was 3mm in , now 5mm in - set to compensate for neg camber and excessive wear on inside edge of tyres

Height from Wheel centre to Wheel arch is 380mm all round.

Sounds like time for a rear camber kit, but I would like to go the way of complete new arms with adjustable ends as (I've been told) they are easier to fit.

Edited by 3intheBack
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Quick question to those in the know...

This thread has cautioned against the use of spherical joints as they increase NVH and wear quickly - this was mentioned in respect to front castor/control arms.

Does it apply to adjustable rear camber arms?

Or should I just stick with the poly bushes?

Post Note - Next day.

I found the answer in "search" in the suspension thread. Think I'll go the poly bushes!

Edited by 3intheBack
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  • 2 weeks later...

not to sound lazy

but wth 17 pages of information there isnt a clear cut decision

Will GTR front and rear work

or do you need GTR front, GT25T rear

or r33 GTS25t all around with custom springs?

I am abou to buy some new coilovers and the first 3 pages didnt give a definate answer.

and then i read some more in another thread

Suspension

Front Shock Asorbers - R33 GT-R

Rear Shock Asorbers - R33 GTS-T

Front Springs - R33 GT-R

Rear Springs - Unique (hopefully details soon)

Front Swaybar - R33 GT-R

Rear Swaybar - R33 GT-R

Edited by yokotas13
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  • 2 weeks later...
not to sound lazy

but wth 17 pages of information there isnt a clear cut decision

Will GTR front and rear work

or do you need GTR front, GT25T rear

or r33 GTS25t all around with custom springs?

I am abou to buy some new coilovers and the first 3 pages didnt give a definate answer.

and then i read some more in another thread

Suspension

Front Shock Asorbers - R33 GT-R

Rear Shock Asorbers - R33 GTS-T

Front Springs - R33 GT-R

Rear Springs - Unique (hopefully details soon)

Front Swaybar - R33 GT-R

Rear Swaybar - R33 GT-R

The R33/34GTR front spring/shock units will fit, but the spring and damper rates are not ideal (read on for why).

The R33/34GTR rear spring/shock units will not fit S1 or S2 autos, they will fit S2 manuals. But the spring and damper rates are not ideal because they are designed for a 2 door coupe, not a 4 door waggon. They are simply not designed to handle the changes in weight or height when carrying passengers and loads in the rear.

Due to he weight distribution of the waggon and its higher rear CoG, the front to rear balance is noticeably different to a coupe.

When I did the engineering of the Group Buy suspension kit for Jamex, I tested a large range of R33/34GTR GTST and GTS4 springs and shocks. I did not find a suitable spring in that combination. So the Group buy kits uses a unique (to R33/34) rear spring. I was paid by Jamex to do the engineering, so that the knowledge pertaining to the rear spring does not belong to me. So I can't tell you.

Similar logic regarding the unique waggon weight and CoG also applies to the stabiliser bar rates and the alignment settings.

:) cheers :(

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yes, well

since that post

i could out i had silkroad RM8 Stagea suspension on teh car.

it has a noticeable body roll, but the new airride setup i am going with will help that

it uses the coilover as hte strut, and a bag as an infinately adjustable spring rate lol

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yes, well

since that post

i could out i had silkroad RM8 Stagea suspension on teh car.

it has a noticeable body roll, but the new airride setup i am going with will help that

it uses the coilover as hte strut, and a bag as an infinately adjustable spring rate lol

Some things to keep in mind;

1. Increasing the static air bag pressure (spring rate) will increase the ride height

2. Unlike a linear rate coil spring, as the air bag compresses, the spring rate increases

3. The size of the airbag determines the rate of increase in "spring rate", a small bag increases the spring rate very rapidly

4. The shocks most likley won't have the valving to control that sort of variation in spring rate.

5. Stabiliser bars should be used to control roll, not springs and/or shocks.

:( cheers :happy:

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lol well since then

i cant use the airbags because of clearance issues in teh fenderwell area that could damage the bag.

its too wide

So instead, i found a setup that i can mix and match all the parts from different nissans and get the valving i want to match the aggressive spring rates i want.

more to come.

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lol well since then

i cant use the airbags because of clearance issues in teh fenderwell area that could damage the bag.

its too wide

So instead, i found a setup that i can mix and match all the parts from different nissans and get the valving i want to match the aggressive spring rates i want.

more to come.

Be careful, Stageas weigh more than any other comparable Nissan, particularly over the rear wheels. So using an S14 or S15 shock in the rear is not a good idea.

:O cheers :no:

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its not the ACTUAL shock

its just a different length

they will all be revalved for the springs im using.

I just need the s14 rear shock cartridge length.

If you are changing the valving, then you are better off using the R33GTST rear shock.

:sick: cheers :laugh:

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