Stagea Suspension

[JZZ20]

If you have Bilsteins you don't need to change your springs. You can adjust the height by moving the circlip up or down. If you have run out of grooves (only likely if you want an extremely low setting) you can get more grooves machined quite cheaply.

REALLY? You can lower these things by a factory setting?? Sounds great to me

Will have to poke my head in there and have a look-see

[pipster11]

can anyone tell me the specs on the springs and shocks in my car

i've had a look on the impul site but found nothing

can someone also tell me if the springs are stock or aftermarket/thicker?

i'm quite happy with it as it is but i'd like to know where i stand

thanks

[pistol-pete]

cant help on the specs but this is what the stock shocks that i took out of my rs4s look like

[pipster11]

hmm, look very similar but slightly different

if they are thicker its not my much, the ride is pretty firm tho, maybe harder shocks then?

[Ceffy_SA]

Got some R33 rear tein HA coilovers for the rear of my stagea RSFour Auto but the top hats on the struts are very different, i was under the impression that R33 rear sus bolts in with just a few mods to the top hat (shaving the sides off) but this seems incorrect, sorry i wasnt going to go through 40 pages of stuff to find out i had a bit of a scan through it however...

[JDM_Spirit]

Hey guys,

Had a thought earlier this week. I was looking at the fitment of the rear of my car. Thought to my self...

"Lets make it flush... then make the front suit".

So initial thought was SPACERS... but then I got thinking again. Decided to get Adjustable Rear Camber arms for the rear. As much as I love Camber. My wallet cant afford the rubber and really it serves zero purpose on a daily driver.

My last wheel alignment came up as FL 2.6 degrees FR 2.5 degrees RL 3.0 degrees RR 3.0 degrees

So my question is, Along with Camber arms, SHOULD I get Adjustable Toe and Trail/Traction arms?

They're cheap enough out of Japan and it would be alot easier to get a wheel alignment all in one hit.

"Do it once, Do it right".... right?

I simply just want to give my self the best chance of having all 4 wheels rolling dead straight, not chewing tires nor fuel.

As for the front, I'll get bigger spacers in time. Not sure yet, as the Coilovers have only 6gk springs and they still travel a fair bit. Guard munching is not on my list of things to do.

[Duncan]

you have way too much rear camber for any use, let alone a road car.

use the adjustable arms to get it back to about 1.5o

your existing rear toe arms are already adjustable, they are used from factory to manage toe.

no need for adjustable "traction" arm, it is only used to adjust bump steer for track use, even then most people buy them and then don't set them up properly

[JDM_Spirit]

you have way too much rear camber for any use, let alone a road car.

use the adjustable arms to get it back to about 1.5o

your existing rear toe arms are already adjustable, they are used from factory to manage toe.

no need for adjustable "traction" arm, it is only used to adjust bump steer for track use, even then most people buy them and then don't set them up properly

Yeah... exactly my point about the Camber.

I had a look at the Toe Arms earlier. There's no obvious adjustments I can see.

Unless the Bolt/Bush(I can think of the word) are offset. Like the factory Camber arms?

I was also thinking of standing the wheels right up closer to -0.5 Degrees or flush with the guard,

which ever of the 2 occurs first.

Thanks for the Input

[JDM_Spirit]

Can anyone please confirm how the Rear Toe rods are adjustable?

Mine doesnt have a thread like the Toe arms on a Hicas equipped vehicle.

Im guessing the bolts/mounts are off set to allow abit of adjustment?

Thanks

[DaveB]

Can anyone please confirm how the Rear Toe rods are adjustable?

Mine doesnt have a thread like the Toe arms on a Hicas equipped vehicle.

Im guessing the bolts/mounts are off set to allow abit of adjustment?

Thanks

Eccentric bolt on the car end of the toe arms.

[DaveB]

While I was fitting the rear Bilsteins, I thought I would take some pictures of the rear suspension and show the camber and toe adjusters.

In this picture of the RHS rear suspension, the camber adjuster is on the inner end of the upper control arm and the toe adjuster is on the inner end of the tie rod. Note the yellow and white factory marks near the toe adjuster.

This is closer shot of the LHS rear camber adjuster, it is is the mid position as shown by the hole being verticle. I wanted less negative camber as ours had almost 1 degree. Full adjustment brought that down to 0.25 degree. That should improve the rear tyre wear and increase the traction.

Rotating the adjuster so that the hole (in the wide side of the washer) is towards the wheel means more negative camber. Rotating it so the hole is towards the diff means less negative camber. Having the hole on the bottom means that you get more change to negative camber as the rear end squats (under acceleration). Having the hole to the top means less change to negative camber as the rear end squats.

Hope that is of some help.

[JDM_Spirit]

Eccentric bolt on the car end of the toe arms.

Big thankyou!

[mr fusion]

Would anyone know a reliable suspension place in western Sydney who could supply/install the bilstein shocks?

[captinsane]

refer this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/33...ag-t325597.html

i'm told I am riding on the bumpstops.... and it feels like it... but bumpstops are at recommended height, springs and shocks check out fine.... 330mm centre of wheel to guard w/ SK's bilstein whiteline combo

[captinsane]

rears are R33 GTST (but the valving of the rears is *not* suited to the stagea - they just physically fit).

pretty sure rears are s14 shocks actually....

[KiwiRS4T]

1. You are too low. Try going up one circlip groove.

2. Try to find a better suspension shop than Peddars ...but not before you get them to fix your wheelnut problem with new studs and nuts. Wouldn't have happened if they torqued the wheelnuts as a professional should.

[captinsane]

1. You are too low. Try going up one circlip groove.

2. Try to find a better suspension shop than Peddars ...but not before you get them to fix your wheelnut problem with new studs and nuts. Wouldn't have happened if they torqued the wheelnuts as a professional should.

thanks mate.. that confirms it for me.... I'll get it raised and trim the b'stops a tiny bit too... on wed peddars will install NISMO mounts and i'll get them to do wheel studs, raise it, wheel alignment... finished....

I've done it myself a few times now but I am past caring and i've got better things to do with my only 4 free weekends this year than raise the car... again... blegh.

Cheers heaps mate.

[-RBD2-]

Anyone got a part number for lowered rear springs for an auto s1?

Whiteline or kings?

Cheers

Rodney

[KiwiRS4T]

Anyone got a part number for lowered rear springs for an auto s1?

Whiteline or kings?

Cheers

Rodney

Rears only in Teins are:

Tein R - SIN79-010382 HCC

Fronts are:

Tein F-SIN78-010311 HCC

[-RBD2-]

Thanks rob

if I can't find anything local,I'll go for the teins