Stagea Suspension

[shotpointblank]

are they gold?? i swear by hks suspension, HKS hypermaxx II are purple in colour- never seen them in a stagea, i have them in my R33, HKS hypermax III road coilovers are silver, HKS Hypermax III Sport are gold in colour and are for track/competition.

http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=3409

ooo really mmm know front strut tops are gold, but the rear sturt tops are purple ?? but track/competition preety cool...

[whitenight27]

i have just fitted a set of std coilovers to my s1 stagea and happy with them.

evoR in Perth sells them.

they had to make up the coilover

my fronts where r33gtr spring and lower half with 32 tops

the rear was 33gtt lower half with s15 tops

that will fit s1 and might fit s2

[import_zone]

are S2 Auto RSfours, R33 GTR suspension arms front and rear? looking into upgrading most arms. but getting confused.

[whitenight27]

are S2 Auto RSfours, R33 GTR suspension arms front and rear? looking into upgrading most arms. but getting confused.

i am hot shore about s2 but if they are the same as s1 then it would be 33gtr front and 33gtt rear. its hard with stageas as some parts will fit and some wont.

other wise try find ones for stageas. think white line dose a few bits for s2 stags

[pipster11]

RSS is r33 gtr all round afaik

[HousewifE]

hey guys, i read through about 5 or so pages of this thread, and rather than reading through 50, decided posting would be quicker, even if it had been covered previously.

in regards to swaybars for the c34 stagea, are the fronts the same for both RWD and AWD models? or is there different mounting points due to front driveshafts etc?

[whitenight27]

no the rwd and awd front sway bar are different http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/371762-c34-sway-bars/

awd can use r33 gtr for the front

Edited January 21, 2012 by whitenight27

[HousewifE]

no the rwd and awd front sway bar are different http://www.skylinesa...-c34-sway-bars/

awd can use r33 gtr for the front

thanks for that mate, time to place some orders!

[Stageas2]

So I bought Bilstein suspension for my c34 stag removed the old stocky suspension and the bilstein seem to be a lot shorter eg the throw of the shocker theyve been fitted on the rear and the car hasn't bottomed out drives all ok but I'm still in quiry if they've supplied the right ones the part numbers are B46 1471 and B46 2108 I've tried calling them but they aren't getting back to me cheers

[Jezboosted]

Today I had a wheel alignment done again which is the first one after fitting adj. camber arms front and rear and also adj. rear traction rods.

Tyres were lasting me about 25,000 klms. Insides of tyres wearing down so fast. Rotating would only help for so long.

My main aim was to get the tyres wearing better with lowered suspension as i drive alot of k's on highway.

Initially before adj arms i had

Front Total Toe +4.3mm

Front Camber L -2.30° R -2.22°

Rear Total Toe +5.7mm

Rear Camber L -2.41° R -2.76°

Now i have

Front Total Toe +0.8mm

Front Camber L -1.45° R -1.42°

Rear Total Toe +2.3mm

Rear Camber L -0.66° R -0.68°

Eyebrow - Front 355mm

- Rear 345mm

Wondering if others out there have this info handy and don't mind posting it up. Would be interesting to see

Many Thanks

[RS4-S]

Had enough of searching this thread/forum/Internet, couldnt find a definitive answer to what tie rod ends will suit rear of my rs4s hicas. I would assume r33 GTR or r34 GTT?? Has anyone replaced them with an aftermarket part? Not overly interested in genuine parts at this stage. Cheers.

[whitenight27]

Had enough of searching this thread/forum/Internet, couldnt find a definitive answer to what tie rod ends will suit rear of my rs4s hicas. I would assume r33 GTR or r34 GTT?? Has anyone replaced them with an aftermarket part? Not overly interested in genuine parts at this stage. Cheers.

I have not done mine yet but i would not think it will be 33gtr more like 33gtst. I would look in to trying find out about some s14 stuff as i have seen that some of it will fit a stag

if u need fronts i have done them and could not find some that are not some stupid price. so just got genuine. same as r34gtr or 350z

[RS4-S]

Ok had a solid look at my RS4S stag and a r34gtt we pulled the subframe out of at work, the hicas tierod end ball joints are the same as r34GTT from what I can see. They are a prick to press in and out of the hub, sometimes u can use a big G-clamp if that doesn't work the hub has to come out. Parts available from just jap for $99ea side. Will do my stag soon

[jko_one]

Ihave recently measured my suspension and got a hell of a surprise

center to gaurd

RHF-400mm

RHR-367mm

LHF-414mm

LHR-382mm

Had a look underneath the RHF shock is bleeding and the LHR is bleeding as well

I can only assume that the springs have gone on the right although there is no visible cracking.

I have been quoted $2300 by performance suspension on the gold coast, for customised coilovers (xyz ???) apparently they make them themselves.

And whiteline stabiliser bars 22mm front 20mm rear all installed. 2yr warranty.

Sounds to good to be true. Has anybody had there suspension done by these guys before?

They said that they sold this package to a guy in tasmania, on here?

oh and my RHF tyre is worn to the canvas on the inside almost brand new tyre 20,000 k old

Cheers

[jko_one]

Just did some research on xyz coilovers, seem pretty reputable.

Has anyone here used them before?

[jasevr4]

Just go with BC BR coilovers and Whiteline Swaybars. Proven and cheaper.

[whitenight27]

i have std coilovers from evoR in perth.

they make them up when u order them so no sitting around on a shelf. and all of there coilovers are made by them

they are also indorsed by Keiichi Tsuchiya

i have not had a prob with them and good firm ride

they cost me 1200 fitted even thow they are not hard to fit but hat to let them do it (for the 2 year warranty)

Edited March 21, 2012 by whitenight27

[260tech]

Today I had a wheel alignment done again which is the first one after fitting adj. camber arms front and rear and also adj. rear traction rods.

Tyres were lasting me about 25,000 klms. Insides of tyres wearing down so fast. Rotating would only help for so long.

My main aim was to get the tyres wearing better with lowered suspension as i drive alot of k's on highway.

Initially before adj arms i had

Front Total Toe +4.3mm

Front Camber L -2.30° R -2.22°

Rear Total Toe +5.7mm

Rear Camber L -2.41° R -2.76°

Now i have

Front Total Toe +0.8mm

Front Camber L -1.45° R -1.42°

Rear Total Toe +2.3mm

Rear Camber L -0.66° R -0.68°

Eyebrow - Front 355mm

- Rear 345mm

Wondering if others out there have this info handy and don't mind posting it up. Would be interesting to see

Many Thanks

Hi there Jezboosted,

I know this response is a couple of months late & probably "old hat" but f kit , I bit the bullet this last week & waded throo 49 pages of the suspension sticky in search of the definitive numbers that you may (or may not) be chasing because I needed them & have condensed the info to the following to maybe help others;(with appropriate kudos to the contributors of course)

From posts by Gary Cooke (Sydneykid)

For those that don't know (apologies to you others) "Sydneykid" has in the past done heaps of work on the mighty C34, designed (for free) a complete cost effective suspension kit for the Nissan C34 Stagea in its’ various forms & spent many hours on this forum explaining his reasoning & the mechanics of the subject to anyone who asked. His daily drive was a Nissan Stagea RS Four & he was racing a couple of Nissan GTST’s. (Dunno if that is still the case)

This discussion was hot back in 2005 or there-abouts & refers to Gary’s own Nissan Stagea RS Four daily driver. (Not the hicas version I think).

SK says ; "1.I have no idea what the standard settings are but this is what mine will be set at.

Front toe = zero

Rear toe = zero

Front camber = 1 degree negative

Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough

I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber.

Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative"

My input = Note: The jury seems to waver between 0 ~ -2mm rear toe. See below

From another worthy contributor, Kiwirs4(?)

KiwiRS4 says; "Front: Caster Left: as much as possible (5 deg or more)

Caster Right: what you got on the right less 1/4 degree (to allow for road camber)

Front: Camber L&R 1 degree negative

Toe in L&R zero

Rear: Camber L&R neg 0.5 deg

Toe in L&R minus 2mm"

I have no idea what the relationship is between mm & degrees or where this would be measured from.

Stuff that may also be helpful?

Coil spring rates;

Ref: Gary Cooke (referring to standard RS4)

"I keep forgetting to post it up, the rear spring rate is 170 lbs per inch. As previously posted the front is 165 lbs per inch. Considering the weight carrying capacity of a wagon, that's not surprising."

The below added from stuff in the thread;

Manufacturer “Zeal” quote ; 7/6 which is 7 kg / mm (390 lbs per inch) for the front and 6 kg / mm for the rear (335 lbs per inch). SK “quote” As a comparison, the standard Stagea fronts are 165 lbs per inch, so that's a 137% increase in spring rate.

Quoting SK "Usually for sporty road use I would be looking for around 30% increase." (“Nice rule of thumb.” Added by me)

“Nismo” quote ; S-Tune springs for the Stagea RS4 are 212lb/in (F) & 246lb/in (3.8/4.4)

(F +29%/R +44%)Upgrade from standard rates.

From the information posted by forum members there is no one fix to achieve the recommended rear wheel alignment numbers. Some vehicles require inner upper rear camber adjustable bush only (Whiteline or similar) whilst others of the same marque require both inner & outer. Still others, due to their requirements may only be satisfied with fully adjustable rear upper camber arms. Depends on individual chassis alignment (warp/distortion/or lack of) & choice of ride height (eyebrow?) which after 49 pages of posts makes sense to me.

Seeya

GW

[KiwiRS4T]

Hi there Jezboosted,

I know this response is a couple of months late & probably "old hat" but f kit , I bit the bullet this last week & waded throo 49 pages of the suspension sticky in search of the definitive numbers that you may (or may not) be chasing because I needed them & have condensed the info to the following to maybe help others;(with appropriate kudos to the contributors of course)

From posts by Gary Cooke (Sydneykid)

For those that don't know (apologies to you others) "Sydneykid" has in the past done heaps of work on the mighty C34, designed (for free) a complete cost effective suspension kit for the Nissan C34 Stagea in its' various forms & spent many hours on this forum explaining his reasoning & the mechanics of the subject to anyone who asked. His daily drive was a Nissan Stagea RS Four & he was racing a couple of Nissan GTST's. (Dunno if that is still the case)

This discussion was hot back in 2005 or there-abouts & refers to Gary's own Nissan Stagea RS Four daily driver. (Not the hicas version I think).

SK says ; "1.I have no idea what the standard settings are but this is what mine will be set at.

Front toe = zero

Rear toe = zero

Front camber = 1 degree negative

Front caster = as much as I can get, but I know it won't be enough

I will run a little more caster on the left (~0.25 degree) to stop the drift due to road camber.

Rear camber = 0.5 degree negative"

My input = Note: The jury seems to waver between 0 ~ -2mm rear toe. See below

From another worthy contributor, Kiwirs4(?)

KiwiRS4 says; "Front: Caster Left: as much as possible (5 deg or more)

Caster Right: what you got on the right less 1/4 degree (to allow for road camber)

Front: Camber L&R 1 degree negative

Toe in L&R zero

Rear: Camber L&R neg 0.5 deg

Toe in L&R minus 2mm"

I have no idea what the relationship is between mm & degrees or where this would be measured from.

Stuff that may also be helpful?

Coil spring rates;

Ref: Gary Cooke (referring to standard RS4)

"I keep forgetting to post it up, the rear spring rate is 170 lbs per inch. As previously posted the front is 165 lbs per inch. Considering the weight carrying capacity of a wagon, that's not surprising."

The below added from stuff in the thread;

Manufacturer "Zeal" quote ; 7/6 which is 7 kg / mm (390 lbs per inch) for the front and 6 kg / mm for the rear (335 lbs per inch). SK "quote" As a comparison, the standard Stagea fronts are 165 lbs per inch, so that's a 137% increase in spring rate.

Quoting SK "Usually for sporty road use I would be looking for around 30% increase." ("Nice rule of thumb." Added by me)

"Nismo" quote ; S-Tune springs for the Stagea RS4 are 212lb/in (F) & 246lb/in (3.8/4.4)

(F +29%/R +44%)Upgrade from standard rates.

From the information posted by forum members there is no one fix to achieve the recommended rear wheel alignment numbers. Some vehicles require inner upper rear camber adjustable bush only (Whiteline or similar) whilst others of the same marque require both inner & outer. Still others, due to their requirements may only be satisfied with fully adjustable rear upper camber arms. Depends on individual chassis alignment (warp/distortion/or lack of) & choice of ride height (eyebrow?) which after 49 pages of posts makes sense to me.

Seeya

GW

My figures are basically SK's settings. My understanding of Toe is that its measured at the treads hence in mm. Rear toe can be zero to 2mm toe in so if Jezboosted has rear toe out he may find it makes the back wander a bit.

My actual settings now are a bit different as I have set it up for the track with camber arms front and rear to give it about 3 deg of negative camber as I use full slicks on the track and can't be bothered changing back and forth!

[Jezboosted]

260tech - Big for the data collection there - That is fantastic to have all of that on one post. I will have a chat to some people where i got the wheel alignment done, and see if there is a reason why i can't get to 0mm toe rear.

KiwiRS4T - You are right about the wandering! It's not massive, but a person used to a car would notice it. It just feels like the HiCas effect is more noticeable.

Thanks heaps guys