Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does the SuperPro front bar have lateral locks on it, to stop it sliding sideways?

Don't forget that there are effectively 2 ball joints in each of the front swaybar links; if these are worn (and it will be quite difficult to tell) an increase in roll stiffness will make them quite noisy.

The good thing is; they only cost around $120 to replace the pair.

my bar only has the lateral locks on the inner side of the bushes.

getting it checked out tomorrow

It's so bad I can made it knock by rocking the car with my hands

weird, it all felt rock solid, see what happens up on the hoist

Check the links where they bolt to your sway bar mate may be a few turns loose! Mine where in the back and made the same noise they some lock tight in done up up good and no more issues! Also yeah they only have the kicks on the inner side as that stop left and right slippage

Pads were low, rotors were warped, and you made the prudent choice considering OEM parts for M35s are hard to get and very expensive. And other excuses.

haha, if it comes to that, I'll use it thanks.

last service was trans fluid change, came back with sways bars front and back too, just between you and me

my bar only has the lateral locks on the inner side of the bushes.

getting it checked out tomorrow

It's so bad I can made it knock by rocking the car with my hands

weird, it all felt rock solid, see what happens up on the hoist

one issue i had with the superpro set i had was that between the solid mount lock and the bush cradle there was a 3mm gap each side causing a knock. I fixed with a piece of 3mm rubber each side to stop the knocking. Compared to whitline superpro are poorly made.

one issue i had with the superpro set i had was that between the solid mount lock and the bush cradle there was a 3mm gap each side causing a knock. I fixed with a piece of 3mm rubber each side to stop the knocking. Compared to whitline superpro are poorly made.

It's a damn shame they won't produce them anymore; I've begged and pleaded.

I'm really happy with mine, It's made a massive difference.

The car feels so much more rigid, which is great on good roads.

Only thing now is you notice the how the stock springs are too soft , so when you drive over uneven road, the car rocks quite bad.

Don't know if you really need the locks on both sides of the bushes.

Isn't it supposed to give a bit through the bushes...

Exactly, as the bar loads up; it wants to slide sideways in its mounts. This is the knocking that you can hear.

The use of separate lateral locks on the Whiteline bars is no doubt in response to variability in build dimension, to guarantee a good fit.

  • Like 1

mm, I'll check my bushes from time to time.

If I notice any gaps I could make some external locks with a pipe clamp or similar..

SuperPro should have supplied them really..

Edited by conan7772
  • 3 weeks later...

Damn end bolts keep coming loose on my SuperPro front sway bar.

4th time now in about 5 weeks.

Had the mechanics tighten it up on the hoist still coming undone.

Did it up myself on ramps to the point of the heads stripping.

Still doing it.

Any tricks here to stop it ?

Was advised against loktite as links are expected to wear quickly with the big arse bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Rob It's a nistune ecu. Yes same shop, good reputation. Apparently the computer on the dyno is compensated for temperature.    Chris was saying that the lean or richness of the mixture would be covered in the actual tune, but he's already picking up in advance that it's under what it should be. Regards the dyno, it's also noticeable on the road. But I just want to add something that has just come in, it appears there might be something in the setup of the external wastegate. In the exhaust manifold there is a centre divider between the front three and rear three cylinders. The external wastegate has a pipe from each side that join at the wastegate. Theory is those two pipes just might be pypassing that divider and introducing a problem somehow. Is anyone familiar with the divider in the exhaust manifold and the effects if the two wastegate pipes were to create a bypass path? Thanks for your questions Rob, interested in your thoughts on this external wastegate bypass theory. Regards Rob
    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
×
×
  • Create New...