Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got a quick query; are the Whiteline springs with the group buy kit (both front and rear) a better buy than say Tein S. Tech Lowering Springs to suit the WGC34? Can anyone comment on this please?

Also, how would the Whiteline front camber set compare to the Tein front Fixed camber kit?

Lastly, can anyone confirm whether R34 / 34 GTR rear shocks only will fit in the rear of a Stagea?

Cheers for your thoughts...Brendan

I don't think i will. He's supposedly got a really good reputation, it'd be a shame to put a black mark on his record. i'm going to take the car back for an unrelated problem anyway, and i'll mention it to him so he knows to look out for it in future

Got a quick query;

1. are the Whiteline springs with the group buy kit (both front and rear) a better buy than say Tein S. Tech Lowering Springs to suit the WGC34? Can anyone comment on this please?

2. Also, how would the Whiteline front camber set compare to the Tein front Fixed camber kit?

3. Lastly, can anyone confirm whether R34 / 34 GTR rear shocks only will fit in the rear of a Stagea?

Cheers for your thoughts...Brendan

Hi Brendan. suggestions to your questions follow;

1. Yes, Tein are well know for having rediculously high spring rates, like most Jap suspension. The shocks have simplistic valving and are also very harshly valved.

2. The Whiteline polyurethane bushes are adjustable, and have sufficient compiance so as not to cause excessive NVH or cracking at the location points.

3. Nopwe, GTR's have forks on the bottom of their rear shocks, Stageas (except 260RS's of course) have bushes, like GTST's.

Check out the Group Buy for more details

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85592

Hope that answered your questions

:) cheers :)

I have TEIN coilovers, but as stated, i haven't had a good run with suspension until now. what i have noticed is they're very very stiff, but when i have full load i don't notice the car bogging down much more than when it's empty.

probably means they're a good spring for heavy cars. they work well for me, as i do carry around a bit of stuff half the time.

Thanks fella's. I had read about your problems Termianl, thats why I was after an opinion for tein vs Whiteline. I dont do a whole load of carrying, so Whiteline will be the go for springs.

Regarding the rear shockers - I bought a full set of KYB shocks and Tanabe springs, for a R33/34 GTR. The fronts are forks whilst the rears have bushes...... wasnt sure they'd fit that was all.

Ive now been pretty much assured that they will, just got to put the correct springs on. Plus the camber, plus castor, plus swaybars, etc etc. :angry:

Never ends!

Cheers - Brendan

well i took my car for a drive thismorning and it's still pulling violently to the left. maybe the toe in was a symptom of another problem somewhere else. this is starting to really sh!t me off as the original guy who put my suspension in has a really good reputation for working on expensive and high performance cars.

god damn......was it that way B4 the installation?

might have to retrace the installation?

doesnt it shite you / stress you out when there is a major problem like that going on, and it seems out of your control?

good luck Mr-T.

Well thanks to Marc2 spending some time on my car one day, i've now found the reason my car pulls to the left. i know rear camber is factory at -2 degrees. when i got my whiteline bars installed, i had a camber kit installed which can reduce this amount to -0.5 degrees. what has been found is that my RL cambre is -2.28 degrees, and RR is

-1.43 degrees.

To add insult to injury the front camber is also way out, with FL -0.36, FR -1.15 degrees.

Anyone have any theories how my camber can be so wacked out even with camber kits installed to create MORE camber than facotry?

Also, none of these can be adjusted any better, they're at the full capacity of the kit

Well thanks to Marc2 spending some time on my car one day, i've now found the reason my car pulls to the left. i know rear camber is factory at -2 degrees. when i got my whiteline bars installed, i had a camber kit installed which can reduce this amount to -0.5 degrees. what has been found is that my RL cambre is -2.28 degrees, and RR is

-1.43 degrees.

To add insult to injury the front camber is also way out, with FL -0.36, FR -1.15 degrees.

Anyone have any theories how my camber can be so wacked out even with camber kits installed to create MORE camber than facotry?

Also, none of these can be adjusted any better, they're at the full capacity of the kit

Very interesting, need a bit more information.

What are the centre of wheel to guard measurements?

I have played around extensively with our Stagea and this is what is needed for each height increment;

Standard (100,000 k's) height is 385/375 mm front/rear

360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters

350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit

340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits

That is to get the front to 1.0 to 1.5 degrees negative and the rear 0.5 to 1.0 degrees negative. The 0.5 degrees tolerance is because every car is different.

:rolleyes: Cheers :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Are the stock springs on stagea's generally Dark Blue/Blue??

Have a little bit of a look round mine yesterday whilst doing the stereo install, and noticed my springs are dark blue. Generally l thought nissan only used black springs

Sooooo ..... any idea's on what they are?

Will have to measure your car against mine alex when l come round ... might try and come round before l put the new wheels on (as in keep the stockies on), as l somehow think 19's might throw the height out a bit!! :) :lol:

Edited by [ STAGEN ]
Sooooo ..... any idea's on what they are?

Will have to measure your car against mine alex when l come round ... might try and come round before l put the new wheels on (as in keep the stockies on), as l somehow think 19's might throw the height out a bit!!  :)  :lol:

Nope, the centre of wheel to guard measuremtns are the same regardless of what diameter wheels are used. That's why we use that as the reference measurement in all cases.

:D cheers :D

,22 Nov 2005, 04:13 PM]Just wanting to confirm, the part no's for the whiteline springs are:

Front springs -- 83139 (23139)

Rear Springs -- 70191 (20191)

Nope, fronts are supposed to be 83159, rears are corect at 70191. I am working through fixing all the listings at the moment.

If you have 83139 please PM me and I will arrange for a swap.

:rolleyes: cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid
  • 2 weeks later...

got a question for anyone out there

i get a kind of tinking sound coming from the rear of the car when ever i accelerate, if i just tap the accelerator it makes this sound every time

kind of like something engaging

does anyone know what this might be?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, my moulds and seals are 32 years old now. I think I will continue to not use a pressure washer on it.
    • I hear the old "I'd never use a pressure washer on my motorbike" BS in the dirtbike community too.  The only people that have had a problem from using a pressure washer on anything are the people that aren't using them properly.  If you hold the wand any more than 45 cms away from pretty much anything (radiators, wiring connectors, paint, etc) you aren't going to cause any damage.  We've had detailers wreck moulds and seals on cars at work before and the only reason why is they held the pressure washer too close and on the one spot for too long.  If you have 5% more brain power than a detailer then you know not to not do that and you'll never have a problem.
    • I'm pretty much healed up post surgery so I spent another almost full day out in the shed re-arranging everything to make room for all of the shit that I've taken off the car.  I need to get everything off the floor and away from the car for when I start making a massive mess stripping off the remaining body deadener and then for the the painting process.  Almost got the shed to a point now where I feel I can actually start working on the car again (clean shed clean mind or something!).  Almost 11 years of accumulated car parts, building supplies, tools, junk, etc have taken a long time to get in some sort of order again!  Most stuff is now boxed up and in the back shed if it's not car related.  Most people would still be horrified walking into my shed but it's significantly better than it was before!   For those that saw my separate post the other day, yeah I ordered one.... This version- I convinced myself to stop being a clown, wake up to yourself and realise it will take you 5 weeks to make one by which stage you're over working on the car again...  Maybe I am getting on top of my "mental ailments" and making smarter choices.... $1450 delivered which will take my miserable half-dutch arse a few days to get over having spent that much!  If I don't have a use for it straight away after my car is off it I might even see if there is a "rental market" for them.  See if anyone wants to hire it for a period of time.  $25 a week or something like that.  I'll worry about that when my car is actually ready to come off it though as that might be a while away!! There's now no excuses now for not ending up with an underside you could eat off! Away for kids sport the next few weekends so hopefully can get the rotisserie assembled ready to go for the car to go straight on it the next available weekend.    
    • I always use my Karcher, but it's only a little one that I picked up from Supercheap  The only issue I ever had with a pressure washer was when I was a kid cleaning coaches, they had a hi-po industrial sized petrol jobbie that would strip paint if you got to close I saying this, we have a fairly high power washer at work with a diesel powered heater that sprays water at about 60°c, it works great for removing old wax and road grime on the underbody after some foam cannon action, albeit from a "stand off" distance of a few feet
    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
×
×
  • Create New...