Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i saw them and they were pretty rooted, so maybe my car had a hard life in japan or something. they didn't make any noise when i bought the car, just after i had first used it to tow a trailer.

One thing I have been critical about my Stagea is the corrosion (rust) caused by the chemicals used to "decontaminate" vehicles before they are shipped. As SK said and I can back up with my R30, and actually I had a 720 King Cab also, and that went on the beach, the bearings are bigger than Ben Hur!

From what you have said ' it could be the ingress of cleaning compounds that has caused the problem.

Next week Im having an end to end grease and oil. The lot! I'll be filling with Mobil 1 and augmenting with Nulon products. After perusing this thread I will also be checking the wheel bearings, clean and repak.

Just had a wheel alignment performed on my Stagea, and am a bit curious about the rear camber. Took it to a good place (in Christchurch, NZ - Firestone performance centre). Car had factory suspension(its not lowered) when I imported it a couple of months back, and having just put 18's on I took it for a wheel alignment.

Rear Camber before adjustment: Left: -2.21 Right: -2.10 (Stated target -.55 (+-.3)),

After adjustment: Left: -2.16 Right: -2.07

So almost no change, probably just measurement error from the before/after run. Seeing as adjustment is possible from stock, I'd have hoped they'd try for less camber. (Couldn't ask as gf picked it up, will ring em 2moro) But maybe they presumed non-adjustable, could a place be un-aware of this today?

Or they could already have been at full positive, but I can't see why unless something damaged. No signs of trouble, but old 15's I removed for new wheels were showing inside wear. Should I get under there and eyeball the camber adjuster? Not that I know where it is. On top wishbone somewhere?

And I don't feel like replacing my nearly new 235/40/18 G3's before I have to, is -2 gonna fudge em? I can rotate all 4 wheels I guess, but still.

Cheers.

Just had a wheel alignment performed on my Stagea, and am a bit curious about the rear camber. Took it to a good place (in Christchurch, NZ - Firestone performance centre). Car had factory suspension(its not lowered) when I imported it a couple of months back, and having just put 18's on I took it for a wheel alignment.

Rear Camber before adjustment: Left: -2.21 Right: -2.10 (Stated target -.55 (+-.3)),

After adjustment: Left: -2.16 Right: -2.07

So almost no change, probably just measurement error from the before/after run. Seeing as adjustment is possible from stock, I'd have hoped they'd try for less camber. (Couldn't ask as gf picked it up, will ring em 2moro) But maybe they presumed non-adjustable, could a place be un-aware of this today?

Or they could already have been at full positive, but I can't see why unless something damaged. No signs of trouble, but old 15's I removed for new wheels were showing inside wear. Should I get under there and eyeball the camber adjuster? Not that I know where it is. On top wishbone somewhere?

And I don't feel like replacing my nearly new 235/40/18 G3's before I have to, is -2 gonna fudge em? I can rotate all 4 wheels I guess, but still.

Cheers.

Yep, 2 degrees negative is a bit much, although it is very height sensitive. What is the ride height front and rear, all 4 corners, centre of wheel to guard?

It has been my experience that very few wheel aligners know that there is limited camber adjustment on the rear. They look at the front first and find that there isn't any there and incorrectly assume that the rear is the same.

There are pictures of the standard rear camber adjuster in the thread, to save you looking here it is.

1903Camber_Adjuster_Small1.jpg

The rear camber adjuster is the eccentric bolt on the inner joint of the upper control arm. As you can see that one is in the middle position, adjusting it to lengthen the arm decreases the negative camber.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid

Fantastic, thanks for the picture!! :thumbsup:

I have the centre-of-wheel to guard measurements at home, but they coincide closely with your standard height measurements you've posted. I think you mentioned some suspected sagging in the rear of your car, perhaps mine is similiar (120k's), and I guess its giving me quite a lot of negative. Am I correct in thinking .5deg is the full range of adjustment in those eccentric bolts?

Just rang wheel alignment shop and spoke to operator, he was aware of the rear adjustment, quoted how its same as skyline, laurel, and said it was fully wound out already. Imagine he's right, but i'll get under there for a look. Perhaps its economical to get adj. camber arms, and necessary if I were to lower it.

Perhaps its economical to get adj. camber arms, and necessary if I were to lower it.

I am not a fan of using spherical bearings on road cars, they wear fast, knock like a bustard and are generally not replaceable (you have to buy a whole new arm). In my opinion the Group Buy bushes from Whiteline are a better solution for a road car.

:whistling: cheers :wub:

Edited by Sydneykid

I would like to add a link to this thread in the "Stagea Diy's, How To's, & Fyi's" thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102808

And then unsticky this thread, any objections?

Hi SK,

nice thread. very informative,

Now i ahve recntly bought a 260rs. The car is in compliance at the moment. I suspect that the car has an aftermarktet springs on it(red in color) and std shocks. And its done 70ks on the speedo.

If i were to get blisteind a full set will it match to the springs? Or it doesnt matter? How much for the shocks(blisteins) a whole set. Do i need to upgrade the swaybars and put the in thecameber and castor adustor?

From your point of view what would be the best set up for the car for street use (fun driving) and probably occasinal track use? Thanks buddy

Hi SK,

nice thread. very informative,

Now i ahve recntly bought a 260rs. The car is in compliance at the moment. I suspect that the car has an aftermarktet springs on it(red in color) and std shocks. And its done 70ks on the speedo.

If i were to get blisteind a full set will it match to the springs? Or it doesnt matter? How much for the shocks(blisteins) a whole set. Do i need to upgrade the swaybars and put the in thecameber and castor adustor?

From your point of view what would be the best set up for the car for street use (fun driving) and probably occasinal track use? Thanks buddy

PM Sent

:D cheers :P

Sk are the 260rs suspension the same as the R33/34 GTR exactly the same? Just want to clarify this thats all. Will it fit? And how will it work? Good or bad?

Edited by stasis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, the latter. No diff should have a centre replaced without checking clearances because its unlikely to be the same as whatever came out. Not that that stops most people just checking a new centre in
    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
×
×
  • Create New...