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Stagea Suspension

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

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66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted
well i saw them and they were pretty rooted, so maybe my car had a hard life in japan or something. they didn't make any noise when i bought the car, just after i had first used it to tow a trailer.

One thing I have been critical about my Stagea is the corrosion (rust) caused by the chemicals used to "decontaminate" vehicles before they are shipped. As SK said and I can back up with my R30, and actually I had a 720 King Cab also, and that went on the beach, the bearings are bigger than Ben Hur!

From what you have said ' it could be the ingress of cleaning compounds that has caused the problem.

Next week Im having an end to end grease and oil. The lot! I'll be filling with Mobil 1 and augmenting with Nulon products. After perusing this thread I will also be checking the wheel bearings, clean and repak.

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Daleo
Daleo

Not making a judgement against MCA; everyone that I've heard from raves about them, but your comments about BC's just aren't true. I've been using them for more than 6 years now; damping and ride qua

conan7772
conan7772

yep bolts were loose, but you couldn't tell until the car was up on the hoist. put some Brembos on while we were at it. got that one past the wife ..

datmoo
datmoo

These should stiffen things up a bit!

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Spammeoff Contributor

Spammeoff

Posted
Posted

Just had a wheel alignment performed on my Stagea, and am a bit curious about the rear camber. Took it to a good place (in Christchurch, NZ - Firestone performance centre). Car had factory suspension(its not lowered) when I imported it a couple of months back, and having just put 18's on I took it for a wheel alignment.

Rear Camber before adjustment: Left: -2.21 Right: -2.10 (Stated target -.55 (+-.3)),

After adjustment: Left: -2.16 Right: -2.07

So almost no change, probably just measurement error from the before/after run. Seeing as adjustment is possible from stock, I'd have hoped they'd try for less camber. (Couldn't ask as gf picked it up, will ring em 2moro) But maybe they presumed non-adjustable, could a place be un-aware of this today?

Or they could already have been at full positive, but I can't see why unless something damaged. No signs of trouble, but old 15's I removed for new wheels were showing inside wear. Should I get under there and eyeball the camber adjuster? Not that I know where it is. On top wishbone somewhere?

And I don't feel like replacing my nearly new 235/40/18 G3's before I have to, is -2 gonna fudge em? I can rotate all 4 wheels I guess, but still.

Cheers.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Just had a wheel alignment performed on my Stagea, and am a bit curious about the rear camber. Took it to a good place (in Christchurch, NZ - Firestone performance centre). Car had factory suspension(its not lowered) when I imported it a couple of months back, and having just put 18's on I took it for a wheel alignment.

Rear Camber before adjustment: Left: -2.21 Right: -2.10 (Stated target -.55 (+-.3)),

After adjustment: Left: -2.16 Right: -2.07

So almost no change, probably just measurement error from the before/after run. Seeing as adjustment is possible from stock, I'd have hoped they'd try for less camber. (Couldn't ask as gf picked it up, will ring em 2moro) But maybe they presumed non-adjustable, could a place be un-aware of this today?

Or they could already have been at full positive, but I can't see why unless something damaged. No signs of trouble, but old 15's I removed for new wheels were showing inside wear. Should I get under there and eyeball the camber adjuster? Not that I know where it is. On top wishbone somewhere?

And I don't feel like replacing my nearly new 235/40/18 G3's before I have to, is -2 gonna fudge em? I can rotate all 4 wheels I guess, but still.

Cheers.

Yep, 2 degrees negative is a bit much, although it is very height sensitive. What is the ride height front and rear, all 4 corners, centre of wheel to guard?

It has been my experience that very few wheel aligners know that there is limited camber adjustment on the rear. They look at the front first and find that there isn't any there and incorrectly assume that the rear is the same.

There are pictures of the standard rear camber adjuster in the thread, to save you looking here it is.

1903Camber_Adjuster_Small1.jpg

The rear camber adjuster is the eccentric bolt on the inner joint of the upper control arm. As you can see that one is in the middle position, adjusting it to lengthen the arm decreases the negative camber.

:P cheers :(

Edited by Sydneykid
Spammeoff Contributor

Spammeoff

Posted
Posted

Fantastic, thanks for the picture!! :thumbsup:

I have the centre-of-wheel to guard measurements at home, but they coincide closely with your standard height measurements you've posted. I think you mentioned some suspected sagging in the rear of your car, perhaps mine is similiar (120k's), and I guess its giving me quite a lot of negative. Am I correct in thinking .5deg is the full range of adjustment in those eccentric bolts?

Just rang wheel alignment shop and spoke to operator, he was aware of the rear adjustment, quoted how its same as skyline, laurel, and said it was fully wound out already. Imagine he's right, but i'll get under there for a look. Perhaps its economical to get adj. camber arms, and necessary if I were to lower it.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Perhaps its economical to get adj. camber arms, and necessary if I were to lower it.

I am not a fan of using spherical bearings on road cars, they wear fast, knock like a bustard and are generally not replaceable (you have to buy a whole new arm). In my opinion the Group Buy bushes from Whiteline are a better solution for a road car.

:whistling: cheers :wub:

Edited by Sydneykid
Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

I would like to add a link to this thread in the "Stagea Diy's, How To's, & Fyi's" thread here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=102808

And then unsticky this thread, any objections?

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted

Hi SK,

nice thread. very informative,

Now i ahve recntly bought a 260rs. The car is in compliance at the moment. I suspect that the car has an aftermarktet springs on it(red in color) and std shocks. And its done 70ks on the speedo.

If i were to get blisteind a full set will it match to the springs? Or it doesnt matter? How much for the shocks(blisteins) a whole set. Do i need to upgrade the swaybars and put the in thecameber and castor adustor?

From your point of view what would be the best set up for the car for street use (fun driving) and probably occasinal track use? Thanks buddy

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi SK,

nice thread. very informative,

Now i ahve recntly bought a 260rs. The car is in compliance at the moment. I suspect that the car has an aftermarktet springs on it(red in color) and std shocks. And its done 70ks on the speedo.

If i were to get blisteind a full set will it match to the springs? Or it doesnt matter? How much for the shocks(blisteins) a whole set. Do i need to upgrade the swaybars and put the in thecameber and castor adustor?

From your point of view what would be the best set up for the car for street use (fun driving) and probably occasinal track use? Thanks buddy

PM Sent

:D cheers :P

stasis Mentor

stasis

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sk are the 260rs suspension the same as the R33/34 GTR exactly the same? Just want to clarify this thats all. Will it fit? And how will it work? Good or bad?

Edited by stasis

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