Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI guys :D

i've been looking for this thread, but it seems that it doesnt even exsist!

all car forumes has one -if not a few- threads about it, so i thought we should give it a go..

please every one chip in.. starting with the FREE waight reduction...

keep in mind that most of us aren't welling to go extreme (like ditching the AC, stereo,..etc) so keep it streetable! :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/
Share on other sites

there is an old thread with the weight of most of the components for an r33.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=28670

realistically though you may save 100-150kg.. but it would make the car very primitive for day to day driving... and most of the time you can upgrade the power to overcome the weight (again been discussed in other threads)

i ripped out most of the interior of my old shitter r31 a few weeks ago, but the noise levels were too annoying and it didn't feel any noticeable quicker so i put it all back in :)

if you want to spend $1000's saving 20-30kg here, another 10kg there on CF, go for it.. I'd rather spend the money on upping the power and/or handling and keeping a nice car, than worrying about it too much unless it was an exclusive or 90% track car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043812
Share on other sites

there's not a whole lot u can do for free unless u want to take seats and trims out, get a bar to lock out the hicas, saves aboutr 20kgs i think

if u wanted to go crazy then u could go cutting things, but then it wouldn't be street legal anymore

is there a step by step guide on removing hicas ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043846
Share on other sites

also, my heater is desconnected..

-since am going to need it when hell freezes over!:)-

so should i go ahead and remove the whole darn thing?? is it easy? and how much waight do you think it is...

what about the engine bay?? nothing to get rid off over there??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043851
Share on other sites

how do u mean the heater iis disconnected? isn't it all one system?

u could take the reinforcements off the front and rear bars, but wouldn't recommend as would minimise crash zone, don't think theres much in the engine bay, but i agree with predator, power is so easy in skylines y not just buy go fast bits

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043870
Share on other sites

for some fun, strip the tar out, about 15-20kg around the car there

and of course the air con with its compressor, receiver/collector, heat exchanger. Heater core in the dash as well if you are kken.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043928
Share on other sites

replace non critical bolts and nuts with alloy or alluminium one's. Any bolts which protrude from the nut can be cut down. remove the tar from under the floor pan (may induce rust)...

Brackets like the one that holds the Fuel Vapor canaster can be modified. there over kill. Look around under the bonnet see what else can be cut down..

Ummm use helium in your tyres :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043930
Share on other sites

relocate the battery to the boot so theres more weight over rear wheels. your not losing the weight but at lest it's more useful their. prob no point in a gtr being 4wd.

And no point in a R33 or R34 because the battery is already in the boot. Yes, Japanese cars are always superior :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043986
Share on other sites

but then it wouldn't be street legal anymore

lol! Like any of our cars are street legal by the RTA's rules anyway!!! hahah Seriously, it would probably only have to be about 3% of users on this site which have a skyline which would pretty much have to be stock in Every way to be legal by the RTA's modding rules.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53116-waight-reduction/#findComment-1043989
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...