Need some help / advice Re- r32 gts-t problem

[Haro]

Hi people,

My friend has just bought himself a 1989 R32 GTS-t and its an AUTO-MAGIC, seems to be running a lil "off"

For about 70% of the time the car runs fine for just normal running around, however, it seems to cough and splutter a fair bit, when driving, it all of a sudden loses power and basically slows to halt and stalls! The car does start again (after a few goes) but very annoying. It does not always get to the stage of stalling but does miss quite bad sometimes. There is no backfire noises or anything. Sometimes when driving, the car does not rev over 2500rpm, feels as tho it is hitting rev limiter but at that revs. Any ideas?

We changed the oil today (added Uni-Glide) and plugs, cleaned air filter and new oil filter. Planning on changin fuel filter this week (early) The car has done 130 000 and its had some fuel additive (Motor Up's "Fuel UP") to clean it out a lil.

The car is basically standard, with only a K & N pod filter, and Cat bAck exhaust.

I plan on takin it to get "tuned / looked at" IF i cannot rectify problem myself.

Does anybody have any ideas or thoughts on this matter? I would really appreciate it. At this stage im thinkin it may be somthing like an O2 sensore problem or AFM??? (from reading other threads)

ANY INFO WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Cheers

Haro

[Cubes]

Don't use engine oil addatives.

It sounds like your AFM is on its way out. Its not the O2 sensor.

The 2500rpm limit is the limp home mode due to a bad AFM.

If you like fuel treatments use Nulon total fuel system cleaner.

http://www.nulon.com.au/prod_TFSC.htm

Its not cheap but as with anything you get what you pay for.

[Haro]

Ahhh,

Thats what i was thinkin, cheers for the input champ.

I happen to like addAtives.

Anybody else have any input

Haro

[Sydneykid]

My suggestion would be to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and read off the error codes. That will tell you which sensor is crook. There is a thread on how to do it, the search buttton is your friend.

Suggestion #2 go to any Nissan dealer and plug in their Nissan Consult and check the error codes.

Suggestion #3 Buy a neat consult display from Impakt, see the for sale forum. Then you can do it yourself.

As for addtiives, what if the additive you add works against the additives that Castrol/Shell uses? (Substitute your chosen brand for Castrol/Shell).

Hope that helps

[Haro]

Hi,

Thank for your ideas guys, i did the diagnostic on the computer and it came up with code 55 which means "no malfunction" i was thinking that because the problem is intermitant maybe the ECU would not notice it unless it was actually driving and the stall / splutter occured.

I think its time that i slap in a different air flow meter just to test if that is the problem. I know this is probably a stupid question but would a GTR AFM fit / suit? Its just i have access to heaps of these for free as opposed for searching for a second hand standard one.

So maybe the boys and gals at my local Nissan Dealer will have to help me out with figuring it out, just dont want my mate to have to buy a new AFM prob a fair bit... LET the hunting begin!

Any other ideas? I appreciate your efforts!

Haro

[Cubes]

GTR is different.

Get your self a RB25 Series 1 or RB20DET AFM from the wreckers.

Second hand you should be looking at $200-$260 from what I've seen.

[Haro]

Cheers Joel,

I will begin the search for my mate, he owes me BIG time for this one.!!

So the rb25 uses the same or similar hey..? noice... i assume u mean NON TURBO.

Thank you!

Haro

[Cubes]

Not sure about the Non-turbo's.. Most probably the same AFM's as turbo though.

The R32 RB20DET and the R33 RB25DET Series 1 are 100% the same AFM. I've had both on my car so I am sure of this. Series 2.. I haven't played with.

[cameron]

Is it using lots of oil, and does the miss come and go when ever it wants ?

If its non of the above i'd be getting a compression test done, Sounds very similar to what happened to a R33 here. Found out piston number 6 was gooonne....

But we hope that may not be the case.

Could just be your earth wires on your AFM, no earthed properly to the body of the car.

Jun

[Haro]

Hi guys,

doesnt seem to be using much if any oil, i just changed it tho so will watch it,. yes i think i will have to find myself an AFM just for a test i spose, then work from there.

Thanks for the input,

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Haro

[Haro]

OK

I finally got around to removing the AFM a couple of weeks ago and cleaned it out using some contact cleaner and just a general clean up of the plug and connection etc etc. And guess what... it worked a CHARM.

I drove it around for a good few days and even gave it some real hard loving and didnt feel a single problem. Anyways, as it is my mates car and i have been baby sitting it, when he took it back. He got about a days worth of decent driving outta it and then the problem came back. He is rather annoyed.

So i think its time to find a replacement AFM, im workin on a few leads at the moment but if anybody has seen one for sale or HAS one for sale, let me know.

Cheers

Haro

[Cubes]

The K&N pod filter is oiled.

Thats the problem.

Try washing the oil out. Maybe the person before applied way too much oil.