Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

I have an auto tranny s2 r33. Has 3.5" cat back zorst, blitz pod filter, and boost is upped to 9psi via a turbosx boost controller. No other mods.

What benefits can i expect to get from a dyno run? What could be tuned to extract more power from this setup?

Thanks for your help =)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53257-what-benefits-from-dyno/
Share on other sites

Hi everyone,

I have an auto tranny s2 r33. Has 3.5" cat back zorst, blitz pod filter, and boost is upped to 9psi via a turbosx boost controller. No other mods.  

What benefits can i expect to get from a dyno run? What could be tuned to extract more power from this setup?

Thanks for your help =)

Checking that all is well in the A/F ratio area would be my first priority. Then you could maximise the base ignition timing. That's about it.:rolleyes:

They are good for fault finding too. You might pick up an air/vacume leak while your on the dyno too.

It's a good way of checking the car under semi controlled conditions.

But if there's nothing wrong with your car, then there's not much point doing a dyno run.

J

Ok this may be a stupid question cos I don't know a lot about dyno tunning but i'll ask anyway...

When it's said you need an adjustable computer, does this include re-mapping the stock ecu? Would you need dyno tunning at the same time of the re-map?

Or do you just tell the person that is re-mapping what your mods are and that is enough?

Ok this may be a stupid question cos I don't know a lot about dyno tunning but i'll ask anyway...

When it's said you need an adjustable computer, does this include re-mapping the stock ecu? Would you need dyno tunning at the same time of the re-map?

Or do you just tell the person that is re-mapping what your mods are and that is enough?

You can buy a premapped chip, but every engine is different. So the more accurate way is to real time tune the chip on the dyno.:P

Thanks for the helpful advice =)

i think i'll wait out on the dyno run until i get some more mods :(

Tigger if you've upped your boost then dont. I also have auto tranny but more importantly i upped my boost - put it on the dyno and found out i need a new fuel pump - unfortunately the damage was already done and eventually engine went BAM.

Moral of story is its good to check air/fuel ratios etc ..... incase your fuel pump is on the way out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...