Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When looking at the imports I was asked if I wanted to look for a modified GTR or a stock (basically what I was looking for).

I said a clean, stock R32 GTR with a solid service history, etc. would be ideal.

What are the pros/cons of going with either? I had my reasons for going with a clean stock one but I'm curious as to what everyone is thinking and why.

- J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53334-r32-gtr-buy-modded-or-stock/
Share on other sites

I thought that too...i wanted a stock GTR.....but then i realised, stuff that, i'll pay a lil extra and get a modded one. You can save money. But then again, you could be buying a lemon. Your choice really.

I bought a modified one and havnt looked back. I was lucky enough to have an ex aussie contact in japan who inspects the car before buying it. I also got all the reciepts from the workshop that did the mods, which told me exactly what was in the car and how much the previous owner spent. Maybe i was lucky?

I'd take the stock, because i don't want to miss the experience of modding youself and slowly feeling your car perform differently. I think that's part of the fun in buying an import

I think that i would appreciate it more as well. Just make sure your importing under the 15yr rule, otherwise youll be in for the big $$ when it comes to compliance time.

im also planning to import an R32 GTR with the use of the 15 year rule (if it still exists by the time i decide to import). I think a nice stock car with a complete and consistent service history is most important for me. Id rather have a car with medium k's done but with a full service history than a car with low k's but no logs at all, most brokers do decent checks about the condition of the cars to make sure they coincide with the k's shown but you can never be 100% accurate.

Get a nice stock example, if its in excellent condition with low logged k's its worth the extra couple of grand in my opinion.

Definitely go modded provided you get it checked out by a specialist. While it may be fun doing the mods yourself, you'll be digging deep into your pockets if you go down this track not to mention having your car off the road for a considerable period of time. I've just been down this route & if I had my time over again I would have bought a modded one & saved heaps of $$.

i got a stock one, mainly cos i couldn't afford anymore (oiginally going for a cefiro)

but if i did have the money, i think i would do the same because theres more chance of buying a lemon

but anyway i'll be able to say in about 5 days if it was a good idea or not cos thats when it lands (about bloody time).

slapperIf you go down this track not to mention having your car off the road for a considerable period of time. I've just been down this route & if I had my time over again I would have bought a modded one & saved heaps of $$.

Thats not as bad as being down the engine rebuild road :uhh:

I'd Go the stock GTR then you'll have a more reliable car and can save for modifications later. - Time of car off road maby a day or two getting a work shop doing it. - Lots of fun and you can learn lots if you do it your self.

Modified GTR as others have said you'r running the risk of getting a thrashed car and it going bang on you. - Time of car off road, New pistons and what ever else you want, at least 1 mth + but thats if you have the money ready to go. Other wise you'll be saving for a lot longer, you get the idea! (money wise you looking at around $4000min forged pistons + head gasket + oil + oil filters + machining, Balancing & labour etc. Now your back at square one with the same engine just stronger internals. - No fun in modifying and you dont get to feel the performance power gains as mentioned above.

But you could get lucky and get a genuine modified GTR. - You'll have a hard time finding a good condition 1989 mld R32. If anything I'd go 1994 mdl R32 :P

Your decision. :Party:

:P

Jun

Go the modified one. You'll find that most of the parts on an old performance car like a R32 GTR are old, frail, and break. At least one that modified properly will have these parts already replaced. But its hard to find that. I've spent a fair bit of money replacing old parts on my GTR and its money you'll never get back considering the resale and that people can't see through the price at a well prepared package.

I got mine for a lil bit more than a good stock example ($1K-$4K) but picked up about $14K+ worth of aftermarket parts:D go the mod's... unless you are really rich and want to spend about the same amount as the car on mod's (would most probably be much better when finished also)

This can also depend on what type of modifications you wish to do to the car or what you want the car to have, and what the car coms with.

If it comes with turbo upgrade, bigger fuel pump, aftermarket ecu, boosted lots etc. - Then its deffiently been thrashed.

If it comes with, Pod filters, Suspension, stock boost, Exhaust, Rims, BOV then it shouldn't be too bad won't be thrashed as much and internals wont have had as much ware.

:P

Jun

Thanks Ferni... :P I know we've talked about this one already... heh.

This can also depend on what type of modifications you wish to do to the car or what you want the car to have, and what the car coms with.

 

If it comes with turbo upgrade, bigger fuel pump, aftermarket ecu, boosted lots etc. - Then its deffiently been thrashed.

 

If it comes with, Pod filters, Suspension, stock boost, Exhaust, Rims, BOV then it shouldn't be too bad won't be thrashed as much and internals wont have had as much ware.

 

:(

Jun

I suppose at the end of the day it comes down to getting the car checked thoroughly. Most of the ones I was looking at have aftermarket pod filters, suspension, rims, the odd one has BOV, etc.etc.

A couple have got aftermarket computers and new turbos.... I'm steering clear of those that look like they've modified the turbos for the most part for that reason although I will inspect any GTR that looks reasonable. Cost is the number one prohibitve thing for me right now anyway.

- J.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡
    • Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 
    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
×
×
  • Create New...