Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im 40 years old with no driving convictions or fines at all and Suncorp Metway wanted something like $17000 (yes seventeen thousand dollars) a year to insure my GTR. I live in Melbourne but If I lived in QLD the price was closer to $1800. I rang up twice to get this figure and talked to 2 different people. The reason for this outrageous price was because they arent properly established in Melbourne as yet.

yeah suncorp is a rip off (ridiculous prices)in victoria i remember a couple of months ago they quoted 45000 for a gtst the lady herself couldn't beleive it, she did the quote twice to make sure all the details were correct.

  • 3 weeks later...

RACV I doubt will insure any import.

Their prices were cheapest for me when I was a P-plater many many years ago, and still are competitive. Best option these days seems to be justcar insurance for any import. Friend insured a 94 Supra for $1200 or so.. they quoted me $1300 for a R33 GTS-T (rating 1, no accidents, blah). Insurance for my old R31 is like still $500 for fullcomp, even though the value of the car is like $4000 (max!) and I'm 26 rating one.

Once you get past about 25, its like "instantly" you're a better driver which is pure b.s. I think they need much more intelligent ways to figure this out (any car above a certain p/w ratio needs the driver to go for an advanced driving course, etc). I mean half the old people on the road can't drive anyway!

Insurance companies are pr*cks period. If they can find any way out of a claim, they will. If they can charge you a ridiculous premium, they will. If you drive a 2 door (even if its an excel), its "sporty" and they will charge you more. If you are a P plater you will pay 2x - 3x what a 30 year old would pay.

It all sucks. I'm nearing the end of the process (rating 1 for a couple of years) and still its not as cheap as it should be. Least I can get a fast car and be able to afford the insurance now. Over in NZ they can pay $400 for insurance for a GTS-T R33 - shows how different it is over here.

Originally posted by skyline33

yeah suncorp is a rip off (ridiculous prices)in victoria i remember a couple of months ago they quoted 45000 for a gtst the lady herself couldn't beleive it, she did the quote twice to make sure all the details were correct.

ah...the old suncorp in victoria insurance prices....hahahaa, for a R33 GTS-T i was quote.........*drum roll*......$108,000.

come on...that's gotta be a record! ;) ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a given!  Bit hard to powdercoat it properly without removing them! 😁
    • No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit. However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter. Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes). If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.  
    • Do you plan on using 98 or e85?
    • This should be pretty easy. 200rwkW is just about the max power out of an RB25 stock turbo. So, 12ish psi on a 2.5L. That boost limited mainly by the prospect of seeing the turbine in the cat after the smoke show. A steel wheeled equivalent would likely happily do ~220rwkW at something like 17 psi, where it would probably be bumping into the usual limits of such a sized turbo. These things have like a .48 rear. You will not need the 0.86 rear. The 0.64 will be fine. In fact, if you were looking at various mid-200rwkW options for RBs, most of them would be in a 0.64 rear. So, I think you will definitely want to be no bigger than that for a same sized but probably even more efficient (at making power) modern engine.
×
×
  • Create New...