Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

And its a manual Aussie Toyota Sprinter (AE86).

Cost me peanuts (was supposed to be $450, but the seller kept gettin calls from people offering more for it so it went up in price) to buy. Its sittin at a mate's place in Nerang QLD atm. Trucking it down from QLD to VIC, where I'll start restoring it.

Its a sack of shit, drives OK, rust everywhere. Interior's f**ked. Instrument cluster dosen't work, tyres are balder than a stripper's crotch.

Will be repainting it and hopefully can get a Trueno frontend (guards, CF bonnet, light assembly) from japan, along with some Tanabe's. Probably a MR2 engine or something (haven't decided yet) maybe even an SR20 or CA18. I also have a spare RB20DE engine but I don't think it'll fit nor be any good for the weight distribution.

Haven't decided if I'll be using it as an all out drifter or an Initial D replica. Either way it'll have Fujiwara Tofu Shop on it :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53506-w00t-just-bought-a-project-car/
Share on other sites

lol I'll have to restore the car first before I go putting mods in... all that rust that needs to come out and a nice fresh lick of paint... interior retrim...

I need to find a spec list of a AE86 GTV or whatever the top of the range one in Japan was and and AU AE86 and make up a list of upgrade parts to go shopping for.

Teh Hachiroku cannot loose on teh mountain!

Now... should I:

a) Replica it and then park it in front of the cinemas when the initial D movie comes out and put a big for sale sign on it :D

B) drift its tits off

yeah that's the probloem I'm facing, most engines are E-W. I'm leaning towards a 4AGZE engine from a supercharged MR2. Failing that a 3SGTE off a celica with a TD06 or something.

yeah I know they're all E-W, I'll have to modify em to fit...

or i could be slightly different and fit an FJ20DET into it ;)

Dude, now your talking nonsense, why bother making things difficult for yourself.

A 4AG with Grp A internals will rev out to 11000rpm...that already will give you plenty of fun.

Dude, now your talking nonsense, why bother making things difficult for yourself.

A 4AG with Grp A internals will rev out to 11000rpm...that already will give you plenty of fun.

too much Initial D for you... besides... Grp A internals aren't cheap. Supercharged MR2's are pretty common these days, so finding the engine out of one shouldn't be too hard.

Ronin... Fujiwara Tofu Shop is what's written on the side of the AE86 owned by Takumi in Initial D.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
    • This makes sense. I have 2 so I'll just choose the least favourable child to perform the task.  If all turns to shit, I've still got a spare.  Win-win!
×
×
  • Create New...