Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey boganrice, i was in the hunt for a new turbo timer, but now a new problem has arose, my passenger side window motor has sh*t itself, i was wondering if you will separate the motor off the door ?? how much u will sell it for?? and where are you situated?? im in qld.

sorry mate dont want to separate the passenger door trying to sell complete, let me know if you need any other parts though,

  • Replies 202
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

ok no worries man, worth a try anyway.do u have any idea how much a second hand motor is worth though?? estimate?? i have to try around the jap auto wreckers where i live, but i dont have a lot of time on my hands atm. oh yeah can u tell me model of the turbo timer??how old it is and all functions??thanx

gR33dy - please PM me your phone number so I can get some information from you ... I have a couple available but need a contact so I can talk to you direct ...

85URK - it's a BLITZ Turbo Timer (about 1-2 years old I'm guessing), it measures boost, golds peak boost levels, has auto timing and also has manual timing ... it's a dark grey color ... glows green when on and red when counting down ...

Aplex - it's Silver (like the rest of the car :))

Can you please send me some pics of the front bumper cut out for a large intercooler and the Mine's modified ECU to teximexi01@optusnet.com.au.

Also will the front bumper fit on a Series 2 with a 800x600x76mm intercooler?

Thanks

Kenji33

Do you have any of the Seat--belt arms? The little ones that pass you the seatbelt kinda?

$30 if you do :) PM Me

Also want the spring from the inside of the center console unit -$5 if you do :)

Also if you have the silver "SKYLINE" door sills - i'll take those $40 :)

Cheers mate

-Kym

kenji33,

will get pics to you asap, just waiting to get my camera back off my mate, yes the bar is off a series 2 gtst and is cut out (big cut out) previous cooler was a Greddy ( 600 x 300 x 76 )

Strich9ine,

only have drivers side arm ( i thought the only came with drivers side arms)

dont want to split up console sorry

silver "SKYLINE" door sills
do you mean chrome ones? i only have the black plastic ones, drivers side is ruined though.
skid,

motor and box is still available, i want $3000 for motor, box, and harness, all in very good nick.

I'll take it depending on the following details:

stock ECU? turbo? how many km's? auto or manual? got pics?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
    • Hi, Got the membership renewal email but haven't acted yet.  I need to change my address first. So if somebody can email me so I can change it that would be good.    
    • Bit of a similar question, apprently with epoxy primer you can just sand the panel to 240 grit then apply it and put body filler on top. So does that basically mean you almost never have to go to bare metal for simple dents?
    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...