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cerealkiller,

turbo and ecu come with, 70 000 genuine k's on both motor and box (manual) clutch included, can get some pics (I have to get my camera back of a mate)

4playr33

i do have a drivers window motor, but will have to check if it is any good (drivers side door damaged.) i'll pm you if it is good.

ZigenGT

sorry the exhaust is sold. (i'll have to update my original post)

Mika

i've got some pics at http://www.pbase.com/phat6/stuff_for_sale but i can get some more soon (just waiting on camera)

dale32

you can have both for $50 but you pay for postage, pm me your postal address and i'll send them c.o.d. if you want them.

Hey all' date=' I have a heap of parts I am selling for a mate plus some of mine ... most of them are off a wrecked R33 SII ...

- Front Headlights - $250ea - will need a buff - DON'T WANT TO SEPARATE! - SOLD!!

- Front guards - $350ea

- Front Bumper - $100 (cut out for large intercooler)

gday, any pics of the front bumper? what color, any idea of postage to newcastle?

thanks

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    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
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