Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day

I bought an RB30 powered car (*whimper* vl *whimper*) with a T60-1 turbo on it, which is pretty big.

Its oil cooled only, so after even a relatively minor hoon the whole thing is glowing a beautiful cherry red. The problem with this is that its gonna be roasting the oil fairly quickly.

My normal oil change procedure is oil and filter at 5,000k but since this turbo is roasting the oil so much worse than a RB25DET + stock turbo @ 1bar I'm thinking maybe I need to do it more reguarly on the RB30.

Basically I was thinking of using a cheap oil with a decent filter. Change the oil ever 1,000-1,500k but leave the filter in for the full 5,000. Anyone know of any bad effects of doing this? I'm figuring that because the oil isnt roasting to a thicker viscosity and there are no other solids being introduced into the oil, it shouldnt require the new filter?

Any thoughts? Or is the whole exhaust housing + manifold glowing red "normal" with a larger turbo? I'll take a photo of it glowing next weekend. And the glowing isnt from running lean, its actually running very rich.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53762-big-turbos-and-oil-roasting/
Share on other sites

Whats glowing red, the exhaust and exhaust housing? The centre cartride doesnt see the 800deg C exhaust gases like the turbine housing, but sure it still gets very hot.

Rather then use a poorer qulaity oil and changing more frequently, i think it is more important to run a good quality oil that has been shown to be stable at high temps and run an oil cooler.

My turbo isnt water cooled, guess what, neither are Porsche Turbos, Evo Lancers, etc etc. All use plain bearing turbos with no water cooling, just like my TD06...sure it would be better if they did but i think the quality of the oil is more important at the end of the day.

Only my opinion though. I also got my exhaust and exhaust housing ceramic coated which in theory retains more of the heat/energy in the exhaust....so the centre cartridge shouldnt see as high a temp

Its only the exhaust housing itself (well, +manifold and dump pipe), not the center or any portion of the compressor side.

I was just concerned with how quickly the oil turns to dark black. I had a turbo laser before this, running magnatec, and it would take most of the 5000k to goto black. The VL does it within 2000k.

Currently running magnatec, which is too thin for the old RB30 anyway. By "cheap oil" I'm not talking No Frills or Home Brand, just not magnatec/Mobil1/redline oils.

A wise man once told me.........."there is no point changing the oil if you leave the old filter on there.........do it right, ALL THE TIME. will save your engine in the long run."

I live by that, for the sake of a 7-10 dollar filter is it really worth risking your engine?

Congrats on the purchase Krawler.........somehow i am not surprised you bought a commodore :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry no - The sandtrap adventure ended the day, happened at the end of the last session. At that time I wasn't hearing any weird noises nor were the brakes shuddering anymore. It was only when watching the videos that I remembered I had these sounds early on!
    • Did the noise appear after your sand trap adventure? Could be something got dislodged and is playing rub rub. Even a rock wedged somewhere.
    • Is there a shroud around the tailshaft spline into the back of the box? They can rub and make a horrible noise if they are not on straight/damaged. The heat might have caused it to grow too much in one direction and rub.
    • Strangely I noticed it either disappear later in the day, or not be present. I definitely noticed when I was crawling around that open wheel thingy entering the pits (that part was audible in car). Driving home and commuting around town for example, I didn't hear it. It's plausible that it was a brake disc or something still slightly in contact. The brakes absolutely felt BAD for the first couple of sessions, huge amounts of shudder and grinding as they got up to temp - And then I actually just forgot about it as the day went on/didn't notice it. The videos were from the morning when this was more present than the afternoon/drive home when it wasn't. I've asked around and got a variety of responses including handbrake shoe contacting hub, CV joints, CB tailshaft bearing as above, and clutch input bearing. I didn't test if it disappeared when clutch was in. I haven't noticed it in any of the other videos nor did I notice it when driving to that extent. More or less hoping the microphone at the rear license plate giving some kind of clue of 'something' but it looks like "spin stuff and see if you can notice it" is the way forward here. I could be smart and use the gopro mic and re-mount it to that location to see if the sound is still present at low speed actually. Sounds like a decent test whenver I have the CBF'ness to drive the car again. Given it's almost 40C for the day of the track day and the next 3 days after, the CBF is high. All I've done since getting home is unpack the car, remove the remnants of the lip and undertray and left it there. I was surprised how well the PMU Club Racers actually worked. The brake performance on the track was absolutely fantastic, best I've ever personally used, no fade whatsoever and the bitiness was almost too good, I was scrubbing more speed off than I needed to, but I also ended up infield when I started trying to scrape off ... less speed.... so...
    • Not really, no. Anything you would do is easily reversible.
×
×
  • Create New...