Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I am new to turbo cars (ok, I have never owned one) & I hav my heart set on an R33 Skyline. I like the R32's, but I think they may be getting a bit old (as to maintenance, etc) & I can't afford an R34 GTR so lets forget about that one.

What should I look for & look out for when considering the purchase of a GTR?

How do you pick a genuine GTR from a fake? I have heard that the R33 GTR has "fins" on the back of the diff housing, which gives it away.

From research, I understand that many Jap imports have clock wind-backs associated with them. Can the ECU or something be interegated to check for this?

What is a reasonable price to pay & what should I avoid? Is a GTR worth another 10k over a GTS-T?

All helpful comments welcome.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

Oscar.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/53791-wtb-noobie-skyline-r33-gtr-qns/
Share on other sites

usually to spot a gtr just look at the body shape .. if u compare a gtst to a gtr the gtr has slightly wider guards ... also, just look at the engine ... if it says 26 then its a gtr :D ... 25 says its a gtst ... and 20 ... then its a r32 gtst ... generally gtr is a little more than 10k over a gtst ... and inside the car ... the gtr has slightly different interior and extra gauges ... u can't really get them mixed up :)

Hi Oscar,

The flared front and rear guards and the indicators on the front guards they arn't flat into the body (like gtst) they stick out and are smaller on a gtr. The GTR rear wing, Interior is different seats, dash, other guages etc. The fins on the back of the diff indicate that its a V-spec (Victory spec) GTR other wise if it doesnt have fins its a standard GTR.

Other features in the V-sepc version include: Slight modification to stock suspension -being lowered more. The reaction time of the 4WD ATTESA system when under acceleration. and a couple other features.

Read this for info on what too look out for :)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=35129

Hope that helps,

:D

just check the body number , gtr is bcnr33-xxxxxx ( thats the nissan number on the firewall ) only gtrs have bcnr gtst's have ecr33 .

the gtrs and gtsts are a totaoly different car , front panels ( guards , wider+ bonnet are different and are alloy in the gtr ), grill and b/bar different as well , the rear guards wider .

when you look at the car from front or rear you can see the front and rear guards bulging out .

the car underneath has braces on the chassi where the drivetrain tunnel is to make the boddy stiffer .

but for someone thats never seen a gtr the body number is the easiest way to identify it by .

expect to pay $35 k + for a reasonable car and make sure you have a mechanic to check it for you , they can be very expensive to repair , like $ 10 k for engine rebuild .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...