My FMIC Installation

tang0 · October 19, 2004

OK, not sure if this should be here, or in the DIY section, i'm sure a nice admin person can move it if necessary.

Anyway, installed an FMIC today, and thought people may like to know how things went ..

First up, Thanks to Rev Speed who sold me his HKS IC from his sadly dead R33 ...

Second up, from start to finish (not including running out to grab some stuff) took me (on my own) about 11 - 12 hours ...

I'm no stranger to a spanner .. i'm sure this helped ...

anyway, onto the install ...

parts i had / tools / etc

1 x fmic (quite important)

A full piping kit, however, i did need to replace some of the hoses, and clamps ..

The kit i had, as in pic 1, has a port for a HKS BOV - I chose not to install this at this time, but will do later on, I just have it blanked off at the moment.

tools, a grinder, drill, jigsaw, holesaw (3") - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm sockets, socket extentions, screwdrivers etc, just your regular toolkit.

I really do have to say that a grinder makes things REALLY easy, the front bar needs LOTS of trimming, and a grinder makes SUCJ easy work of it.

Its worth buying a decent holesaw as well, these $15 multi size holesaws from bunnings are a total waste of time, its worth buying decent tools for the job !

As in pic 2, I had to make up a couple of support bars for the IC, this was just mild steel, bent to mount up to the holes.

The IC is totally solid in these mounts, doesn't budge at all !

The 'over the fan' return pipe is pretty large, and catches on the bonnet a little, not sure if this is cause my 'through the wall' hole is a bit too high ... possibly ..

I also has to do a few repairs to this IC as it had a couple of pinholes in it from its 'accident' While not major, they would cause a leak, so a blow torch, and some aluminium brazing / soldering rods make light work of thin IC material. If you have to do this at any time, the only advise i can give is 'go slow' use a small ish flame (blue triangle about 40mm to the tip) and apply the soldering rod nice and slowly..

After it was installed popped out for a coffee with Zeb (also SAU) and found that the return pipe was knocking on the metal work when going over sharp bumps, cured this by getting some 6.4mm fuel pipe, cutting it down the middle, and lining the inside of the hole with it, this makes the pipe a nice and snug fit, and no metal on metal knocking action.

conclusion :

easy enough for days work if you have all the tools you need, and the correct parts in the kit, be prepared to HAX away at your front bar !

Take your time over doing it, don't rush 'just so it works'

now to some pics