Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

evo_lee is actually right, the JZA80 (latest shape supra 1400's for manual and 1500 for the auto) is actually lighter than most GTR's I think its the same or a little more hevier than the 32Gtr, the older supra is the heavy one it weighs between 1500kilos for manual and 1600 kilos for the auto, most people get that wrong, I guess the fat looking supra is deceiving. When I had my R33 Gtr, with boost, exhaust and piggy back, I raced my mate in his RZ with similar mods, I shited all over him 1st and 2nd, he caught up as soon as I shifted to 3rd and past me, and I could not catch up. Well I guess I had the first 100 meters won, but supra had the rest.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

I have a friend with a stock tt supra (exhaust) and my stock 33 GTR beats it easy from standing starts all the way to top of third. Its closer from rolling starts although the gtr pulls away a bit.

not sure what it would be like if both had a few mods, although I couldnt imagine him catching me in 1/4mile run unless he had quite a bit more power than me.

A stock RZ will pass you sooner than later, stock for stock with limiter removed they also top out at 279km/h compared to a BCNR33 at 262km/h. A stock BNR32 top out at 248km/h, not bad for an old car but anything newer ie. CP+ Evo, Series 6+ FD, GTO, Aristo, B4 RSK, Z32 will pass it...even a R33 25GT turbo etc will eventually hunt it down.

*Source: Option magazine speed ring test back a few years now.

Being a circuit racer this is a simple question for me to answer, an equally modified GTR will easily lap a Supra in any race with a distance over ~20 minutes. If it's raining, it will take half as long. The GTR was designed and engineered to do exactly that, and it did it everywhere in the world, on almost every race track and against all opposition. It would be simply impossible for a Supra to duplicate that, they do not have the chassis or the drive train engineering to even get close.

For the drag racing guys, show me a Supra that can do 9's on Federal radials.:wave:

Since You CLEARLY Have Trouble Using The Search Button Slim - I Have Dug Up A Bunch Of Useless Old Supra Threads For You To Look At..

Num Nuts!!

edit ok, whilst that was fun digging up old threads.. it was a little too much heresy in here so they have gone back to whence they came.. but believe it or not, there are plenty of old threads on exactly the same topic..

why do you say they are on the wrong side?

why is there a wrong side for turbos? do you mean from a HEAT from exhaust point of view?

SK - do you have any experience in the 2jzgte and what is your impression of it?

I have my own opinion but you do have a shit load more experience in the technical side of things.

so can you see any downsides to the supra engine apart from the ceramic wheeled turbos?

do you see any weak points in them like you see in the SR20's rockers?

As for my option, I'd take the supra TT over both the GTST and GTR..

I just don't like the 4wd thing anymore..  been burnt once too many times..

and you can't compare a GTST to a supra TT.. there is no contest

NOTE: I still love GTR's but don't want to own one.

turbo's on the 'wrong side' from what i understand is that the supra was made for the american market where its LHD and the steering items are all on the opposite side of the engine bay to australia.

so with two turbo's and a steering column on the same side in oz/japan then it can get cramped for space and airflow. gets hot in there me would thinks.

what about that stupid supra interior? miles behind the gtr...

what about that chunky supra arse? "that's a HUGE bitch!"...

i'll take a gtr 7 days of the week thanks.

cheers,

Waz.

lol well it aint that i cant find the search button, but i aint interested in a websites opinions..........i want the opinins of men who know exactly what they are talking about and who have experience in the matter they r deliberating about.......

better than any website in my opinion, plus i think it is a good subject to look at.............i am sorry if i hurt ur feeling bro by asking people's opinions.

Plus i will admit it i did it abit for myself, becoz i am looknig to buy a car, i noticed in general Supras are cheaper than R34 Skylines.........so i was curious what other people thought about them whether they r even worth lookin at..........i mean i think Skyline drivers have the best taste and i figure the same thought would have crossed the minds of many guys o nthis forum of buying a Supra..............

lol well it aint that i cant find the search button, but i wanna know peeps opinions now, not months ago.........i want the opinins of men who know exactly what they are talking about and who have experience in the matter they r deliberating about.......

better than any website in my opinion, plus i think it is a good subject to look at.............i am sorry if i hurt ur feeling bro by asking people's opinions.

Plus i will admit it i did it abit for myself, becoz i am looknig to buy a car, i noticed in general Supras are cheaper than R34 Skylines.........so i was curious what other people thought about them whether they r even worth lookin at..........i mean i think Skyline drivers have the best taste and i figure the same thought would have crossed the minds of many guys o nthis forum of buying a Supra

I like supras, i like RX-7, i like EVOs and i like Skylines a bit more... i'd love a Ferrari, i want a Bugatti Veyron!!!!

You can compare speed times over the quarter mile any which way and a lot comes down to the driver, but you need to also consider as someone earlier (SK i think) that GT-R were designed to kick ass on circuits. i reckon that skylines are better on circuits, but take a look at how many GT-R's or GT-S's do sub 9 times, a lot of those cars (sub 9) are rotary's (heaps RX-7). correct me if i'm wrong but a GTS-t hold the fastest Skyline time over the 1/4?

I think there are "street" tyred Supras in the low 8s... if not almost quicker! Probably not Federals hahaha... but still. Supras have definately proved their worth on the track as well.... the 2JZ > RB26 for power making potential, that has been proven time and time again - in both stockish form, and with the works.

I remember reading about why some of the japs replaced the 2jz for the rb26.

it was said that when they were producing close to 1000hp, the 2jz had ALOT more torque than the rb26 at the same tune level, and the sheer amount of twisting force from the 2jz just kept smashing clutches, boxes, diffs, etc.. whereas the rb26 needed more revs to produce the same power and therefore the torque wasn't as harsh in the way that it came on and this didn't break so many parts.

as for why I wouldn't want another 4wd... COST.

everything costs more.

gearboxes are more expensive.

you have front CV's.

you have a transfer case.

you need a tougher clutch.

All of those cost alot more than a normal FR setup car.

Besides, I am not likely to go chasing drag or circuit times too frequently, and therefore a GTR would be wasted on me.

and my money would be wasted on it.

the other thing is the engine..

I personally prefer to be able to get torque all the time and not have to rev the thing out..

the RB26 is a beautiful thing and as mentioned was built with circuit racing in mind so it has the ability and NEED to rev.

the supra is happy to pull comfortably from 100km/h in 6th gear and about 2000rpm.

this is a lot more important to me than seeing the rev needle over 8000rpm.

Hey SliM,

I recently had to make this same decision. Buy a Supra MKIV TT or a Skyline R34 GT-T (actuall Sylvia S15 was another option). Everyone here seems to be concentrating only on power and speed. Although I LOVE these things, they are not all that matters when buying a street car.

I went with the R34 GT-T in the end, and I am not disappointed! I have actually driven both, and would recommend you do before buying to see what suits YOU best. But some of the points theat made me choose R34 were:

* I was looking for a "newer" car. Supras have a dated look, R34's look meaner. A 1996 TT MKIV costs more than a 1998 R34 GT-T and generally the MKIVs have done more kms. Try comparing the price of a 1998 MKIV TT to a 1998 R34 GT-T

* R34's are rarer on the streets

* If I was getting a MKIV I would want it to be Aerotop - but you can't get Aero top with TT because the chassis can't handle it.

* I hear that modifying a TT is much more hassel than a single T.

Having said all that, both are awesome cars, it was a close decision in the end for me - I still twist my neck when I see a MKIV on the road :rant:

Why is the GTR not in my choices? Because R32 and R33 GT-R's were too old for my selection criteria and R34's cost double the other cars so don't really fit into this comparison. Remember car old = car problems.

Hope this helps,

Jarred

Good reasoning :rant: A lot of people overlook the actual owning of the car., this is how I decided on a R33 GTS25t, sure there is faster - but its a joy to own for the price.

I wonder why the japs never went with the 1JZGTEs if the torque of the 2JZ was the issue!?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
×
×
  • Create New...