Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get the cams changed, to the suited ones for a R33 CAS.

 

Time wasting and a pain in the A$$ but its the only other option if the FC doesnt work with the R34 cas.

 

Have you done a sensor check on your FC ?

Hi cameron, How do you do a sensor check on the Power FC? What we did do is connect up the R34 CAS to the loom and with the ignition on, spun the spindle and nothing. We did the same with my original CAS and the fuel pump started whirring. So we think maybe something might be wrong with the CAS and it is faulty cause it gets no signal.

Thanks cameron

Ian

I thought all the non-neo RB25 had half circle drive?

well they do from what I can see.. inside the actual "drive" (which is actually a star shape) is a half crescent that hooks up to the cam in the correct position, which I assume is the "key".. i think maybe that is where the confusion is?

For the time you will end up wasting on mucking around with, cams, cas, computers. to trying and get it to work. It would be quicker if you pulled out the cams, contact your supplier and get them to send you the correct cams ASAP and then you send back the R34 ones when they arrive.

For the sake of pulling off the timing belt and water pump, its really not that much hassle, compared to messing around with the wrong CAS, which could give you the wrong IGN reading, which could potentially damage your motor.

That is if your certian they are the wrong cams first.

The cams will work fine in the motor,

The R34 crank angle will work fine as well you just need to rewire it probably needs a pullup resistor inbetween your 2 signals . Grab a multimeter and test your voltage signals and rewire accordingly.. I will call you with regards to this anyway Bullant Im home tomorrow and can do it for you. no point in changing the cams took you long enough to get them from Japan.

Br,

JH

Well if they are the wrong cams, hes going to have to unistall them and send them back and get the correct ones.

You can't run a car with the wrong cams.

The R32 and early R33 models run the 8-point star drive and the half moon that comes out from that locates the CAS in the right position. Like Predator said

Late R33s and R34 cams run what looks like a single strip of metal deep down inside the cam which I think is offset to prevent 180 degree mis-alignment.

Also R32s are hydraulic cams and R34s are mechanical.

I know early R33s are hydraulic cams but I would not be surprised if the late R33s are mechanical cams. Unsure.

But I'm guessing you're getting no zap zap at all out fo your motor

hey ian

its richo..... dude sounds like u are having probs with ur car now i feel the same wat but this has been happening to me with my car for the last 4 months still not on the road

P.S does anyone know where the fuel pump relay is located in a r32 or where bouts in the loom its located im having problems with my GTR pump triggering the pump worked when tested in tank but hit the key and nothing any help would be appreciated

Sorry "E" no one replied to my thread that i posted so i jumped on your horse cheers give us a call

thanks

czy18e

not even ian is a good mate of mine everyone help him out wer live a good 3 hours from any real in person advice so this is really all we got

as for the thread whore ive only been a member for a bout three days

cheers

I would not be surprised if the late R33s are mechanical cams.

I have never seen an R33 GTST RB25DET (non Neo) with solid followers, they have all been hydraulic. The only solid follower equiped RB25DET's I have seen have been the R34 GTT Neo versions.:D

Well thanks all for the advise, the R34 NEO cam is on its way back to the land of the rising sun. The correct cam is on its way to the land downunder which will allow us to use the R33 CAS and hopefully will be be installed on Tuesday.

Thanks again for all the expert advise and we can all learn from this experience.

Ian

Well thanks all for the advise, the R34 NEO cam  is on its way back to the land of the rising sun. The correct cam is on its way to the land downunder which will allow us to use the R33 CAS and hopefully will be be installed on Tuesday.

Thanks again for all the expert advise and we can all learn from this experience.

Ian

Good to see you worked it out,

The moral of the story, All ways check your cams before installing, cause its a b!tch when you have to pull it all out again and put the correct ones back in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next pic will probably bring back Charlie's PTSD So yes, pump is back out. I hooked the fuel return up to a hose into a container to flush out the first litre or 2, jumped the Fuel Pump relay and.......nothing.... Turns out the pump I had pulled out, checked, cleaned everything....was dead.  I hadn't actually hooked 12v to it to check it worked before I put it back in. Anyway...Neil had kept the old pump which still worked, so I just swapped it back in. All good, flushed the lines out, ready to start
    • OK....so something that works like it said on the tin! Fitting the pressure feed into the car was an absolute PITA because the oil filter is in the standard location and then there is a fitting to run to the oil cooler. On the other side between the filter and the steering box is the standard oil pressure sender (not working for some reason, something to check) and 2 tapped 1/8 BSP threads for the oil temp and pressure gauges. Unfortunately it is really tight in there and it took a hours of stuffing around to get a t fitting to connect the priming pump and retain the gauge sender.  Also, the Aeroflow sump has some massive drain plug (needs a 32mm spanner) so I couldn't use the regular fitting there either. In any case....once it was all hooked up, like magic priming.mp4 15 sec, 3 bar of oil pressure. Left it running a couple of minutes to push through everything, looked good   
    • Yeah the latest style kit has been trouble free, I've done a fair few klm on it including pushing a bit on low fuel and it hasn't been surging (that's not an endorsement for race use, I haven't tried that low, or that hard cornering!). For street use it has been a good thing, handles the high current OK, only real issue is it is not cheap
    • So, how do you feel about the Frenchys surge tank setup @Duncan? Have you had a chance to try it out more? The sketchy wiring in my fuel pump setup has decided to melt and die and I'm looking for a solid replacement now. My fuel hat is toast so the Frenchys kits providing it all look promising.
    • Yeh... literally every time i jump on a forum, see an instagram post or see an engine bay at a car show, i get an idea and add it to my 'to do' list. So what started off as, hey can u just make a couple of intake hard pipes because my dumbass bought the wrong apexi kit, blew out into a 2 week job including braided brake lines & custom bash kit for the front lip haha.  Getting Luke from A4E engineering to make a full custom exhaust with a controllable aes dump valve so i can actually switch between quiet and loud, because right now its just loud all day every day. Then after that go and get the tune redone flex e85 & 98 as i get bugger all milage from e85, makes going for longer drivers difficult
×
×
  • Create New...