Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the recommended pressure by all tyre shops is 32

I disagree mate sorry! :) AAMI and myself recommend 36psi... i use 36psi and AAMI (when i went on an advanced driving course(3 days ago) recomedned 36psi for my car) the only skyline there on the day...It was awesome :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5441-tyre-pressure/#findComment-83406
Share on other sites

36 sounds a bit much, but it depends on the tyre.

I was taught to run 2psi higher in the front. It holds the tyre firmer, and reduces understeer.

Silver-Arrowz, you really should be RAISING the tyre pressure for the track, but check the pressures HOT. Anything up to around 45psi. Just depends on how the car feels, and what tyres are fitted.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5441-tyre-pressure/#findComment-86074
Share on other sites

It's not a simple case of raising or lowering the pressures for the track. You have to find a happy medium which will allow the tyres to bleed off excess temperature. Either too high or too low pressure will cause them to overheat. Usually low to mid 30's for pressure is good but you really have to experiment.

I run mine on about 36 for the street, used to run up to 40 on my previous car but found the sidewalls got slightly distended after awhile. I haven't taken the car to the track yet so I don't know which way to move it from here, I'll have to experiment myself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5441-tyre-pressure/#findComment-86708
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

I use to run 38psi in my Falkens. I've since had a set of RE540's fitted & was recommended to run ~30-32psi (cold) for the road. These tyres have VERY stiff sidewalls.

When it come to road use it really depends on what your driving style is?

Traffic light specialists would probably benefit from lower pressures (~28-30psi cold) as the extra sidewall flex "should" help with grip. Plus the ride will be a tad more comfortable.

If you're more of a twisty road person then extra pressure "should" be better (36+psi cold).

I'm no expert on this stuff so I could be completely wrong!? And you'll end up with lots of - :burnout:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5441-tyre-pressure/#findComment-102648
Share on other sites

I found 37psi (cold) was good but I have run 45 psi (cold) and found it a bit to harsh, my tyres are stamped 55 psi max.

What I have noticed is the firmer the suspension the more the sidewall flex becomes an issue.

If you are worried about the presure getting to hight when the tyres are warm then fill them with nitrogen, only problem I have is to top them up I need to go to the tyre shop.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5441-tyre-pressure/#findComment-102689
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It was roughly 3.5 hours.    car went in around 11:00 and I was done around 2:30 He did the initial runs, install the BC and then Nistune install and tune.  The best part was sitting in the lobby and hearing the skyline on full throttle at the dyno 😂😂
    • Glad it all went smooth. How long did the tuning process take?
    • Yeah that was kind of the same feedback my tuner gave me.  the boost tee is until I can sort out my plan for the electronic boost controller and what I’d get, where I’d mount the dash etc.  I’m happy with this until I can figure it out. Not a big fan of the A-pillar gauges. I’d like to get a clean install of the boost gauge - something digital like GFB.  Something like that might fit neatly where the ashtray is and look clean. I feel like replacing the OEM triple gauge is a bit extreme for a weekender like my skyline. And it’s not making crazy power to need all the additional sensors/gauges. 
    • I'm about to swap my box to Tremec T56 Magnum F & initially thinking of re-using my DCS twin plate (can get it re centred for the bigger spline) but it's been called out the box will be noisy (rattle) as the clutch is unsprung.  So I'm doing as much research as possible. I'm not so worried about holding the power as I'll go the track version which on paper will hold the maybe 1000hp I make. It's the longevity I worry about. DCS told me they don't use a sprung centre as it's just something that can break. The uni clutch has a very complicated sprung centre. Any one had or heard about any issues with it failing? Thanks in advance.
    • Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....
×
×
  • Create New...