Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldn't know how the speed feels since I only gave it one tiny (and I mean TINY) bit of throttle in 6th gear just after the speed camera near Fyshwick (southbound) and next thing I knew I saw 162 on the instrument cluster. Didn't actually mean to do anything more than say 130 as I overtook someone, it's just it got there way too fking easily!!!

I wasn't so much concerned with my surroundings when I gave it the squirt in 2nd gear - I was more worried the bike was going to take off without me on it any more! bahahaha obviously you're right though, you would get used to it quickly enough.

My mate's had the bike up to 162 in 1st gear, I think it's supposed to hit the limiter at 175 or something from memory.

Also for the record I'm 5'8" and ~83kg heh

Oh also Anthony I'm sure you'll be secretly happy to hear I "dropped" my bike for the first (and hopefully only) time on Sunday, lol. Was completely stationary in that carpark in Tuggers over from the school/library where they're doing construction of some kind. As I put a little bit more weight onto my left foot to roll the bike forward a touch (was too close to gutter to put the stand down lol), I stepped on a small pile of leaves and sticks...which unfortunately gave way :( it was a controlled "drop" whereby I knew I wasn't going to be able to stop it so I just lowered it as slowly as I could....unfortunately it came to rest on the fairing against the curb, so there are very minor scratches on it now...otherwise a tiny bit of a scratch on the end of the clutch lever and that's it.

Earlier that morning I was tossing up removing all the fairings and respraying them myself over the winter break anyway! haha so now I have even more of an excuse to do so.

yeah dude it sucks. The stand on my bike is a spring loaded one. I came out one day and literally watched the wind lean it just enough so the stand kicked back up. Nothing i could do but watch a side mirror snap off -.-

So, as some of you may know, I am in the market for a new motormobile. Getting a "clean" one from ACT is proving hard (got a few I can fall back on), so I did a lazy search for R34 GTST's. From suprise these cars are around $12-20k, my budget was around the 8k mark but a jump to 12-15k doesn't seem that bad if an R34 GTST can be jusified. THe only points I can see is that the R34's are electric and newer, with a better engine. Generally speaking they're more reliable than a R32/R33.

People tend to be bias to their current owned cars, but do people think an R34 GTST for 12-15k would be better than buying a R33/32 for 8k? If I put a bit more cash to the market and get an R34 I might be way better off in the long run. But never driven / know much about them, also they seem to be lower KMs than most 32's/ 33's.

So I guess I am here to sap some knowledge from R34 owners as well as Skyline owners.

All thoughts would be appreaciated.

FUUUUUUUUCK mate that's retarded!!! Why the hell would they make your stand auto-retract on a spring....that's f**king stupid. But yeah I'm just glad it happened in the way it did. Very minor scratching on one of the 'corners' of the fairing which could be easily covered up with touch-up anyway haha

 

So, as some of you may know, I am in the market for a new motormobile. Getting a "clean" one from ACT is proving hard (got a few I can fall back on), so I did a lazy search for R34 GTST's. From suprise these cars are around $12-20k, my budget was around the 8k mark but a jump to 12-15k doesn't seem that bad if an R34 GTST can be jusified. THe only points I can see is that the R34's are electric and newer, with a better engine. Generally speaking they're more reliable than a R32/R33.People tend to be bias to their current owned cars, but do people think an R34 GTST for 12-15k would be better than buying a R33/32 for 8k? If I put a bit more cash to the market and get an R34 I might be way better off in the long run. But never driven / know much about them, also they seem to be lower KMs than most 32's/ 33's.So I guess I am here to sap some knowledge from R34 owners as well as Skyline owners.All thoughts would be appreaciated.

 

If you're going to buy another Skyline, do NOT buy a stock standard one. Buy one with plenty of tasteful and correctly fitted modifications already done. Will save you an absolute f**kload of cash and headache in the long run.

If you insist on going stock, get a clean R33 GT-R.

With a modded Motormobile of any kind it requires Engi Certs which Dickson pits will pick up on and generally speaking more mods = more to fix. My idea was to go for a fairly stock R34 to get it over pits and in the price range of 12-15k for an R34 it's coming stock haha. I think R33 GTR's start around the 15k mark. Already jumping to high. I've gone from 8k to 12-15k. really cannot jump any higher.

 

With a modded Motormobile of any kind it requires Engi Certs which Dickson pits will pick up on and generally speaking more mods = more to fix. My idea was to go for a fairly stock R34 to get it over pits and in the price range of 12-15k for an R34 it's coming stock haha. I think R33 GTR's start around the 15k mark. Already jumping to high. I've gone from 8k to 12-15k. really cannot jump any higher.

 

Yeah sorry lol forgot about that...of all people I should know what that bullshit means haha....if you can find one in ACT that's already modded (and registered) then have a look at that, otherwise good luck to ya :(

  • Like 1

Hey Jeremy, Richard has a nice 34 for sale. Or at least he did have.

I would agree with Troy. If I had my time again I would buy one with at least some good quality base mods, rather than starting from scratch. And there are a lot of bargains around on cars with good mods.

Thanks Eric / Richard, but one of the only requirments that I have stuck too is owning a manual. everything else I'm pretty flexible on. Sorry Richard.

On the side note Richard (You can PM or reply), but have you been generally happy with R34's? Since Dad is the bank, I need to bring a pretty strong business case to get x amount of cash. Trying to get Pros and Cons.

Good luck on the sale :)

Buy Richards and manual convert.

34's tend to have the least problems as the neo 25 is pretty damn reliable (other than coil pack issue, quick fix).

It doesn't really matter what model you buy though, as long as it has been looked after. That said, yes the 34 will have the newest technology out of the lot.

Dad previously owned the 34 I have now, so I knew it was looked after, and I wouldn't change to any other car... except a gtr :)

p.s. r34 gtt, not gtst :yes:

  • Like 1

R34 series 2 (2001) RB25 NEO.

$12k max for a very very good and low km manual (sub 100,000kms) - don't be fooled by owners who think they are worth more.

Anything overly modified is still a money pit.

A good looking set of wheels and lowerd is all they really need.

Future Mods - Stick to exhaust, suspension and Nistune. Aim for between 250 - 300kws.

Plan to drop something like a 3076 on it in the future. A year or two

Most will allready have the coilpacks replaced and 02 sensor will need replacing too

Dont worry about Pod filter - get a K&N panel filter.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...