Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone got a Caliper windback tool?

Farken rear brakes on the daily screw back into place not push and i can't get them to budge. Want to use the proper tool before i buy all new calipers :\

No. Just be sure to catch the gasket(s) or they fall into the abyss. Be sure to use a rag or something to cover the turbo outlets to ensure nothing falls into them.

Awesome! Thanks mate. Taking it off for polishing along with my Apexi intake pipes.

Has anyone got a Caliper windback tool?

Farken rear brakes on the daily screw back into place not push and i can't get them to budge. Want to use the proper tool before i buy all new calipers :\

What car and what does the piston look like? I made one for the 31 rears and it worked very well. :)

What car and what does the piston look like? I made one for the 31 rears and it worked very well. :)

Shitty Alpha 156.

$T2eC16JHJF8FFqJjjt!pBSDMKNwhE!~~60_35.J

Am going into Ultimate tunes tomorrow with the calipers and if we can't get the fkers to move im just going to buy new calipers.

Depending on materials / tools available and willingness to have a crack, shouldn't be too hard to make something to fit that.

Metal pipe, hacksaw, drill and some kind of handle / leverage springs to mind. :)

Depending on materials / tools available and willingness to have a crack, shouldn't be too hard to make something to fit that.

Metal pipe, hacksaw, drill and some kind of handle / leverage springs to mind. :)

Ill just yell at it. That will hopefully sort it.

Really not in the mood to spend $300 on the daily. Thats $300 i cant spend on the GTR

We have learnt many things today, Anthony has caliper issues on his daily, Rob has an idea if not a solution for most things mechanical (comes with artwork) ... and most importantly we have learnt that Troy reads the SAU/ACT Thread in the cr@pper!! (oh, and apparently he doesn't have a tool!)

And they say you learn nothing in car forums!!

SuperStock_1660R-8979.jpg

Edited by THE34T

Yeah good and bad. Still having boost issues, need a bigger wastegate so its staying in the shed till i do that.

Will be out ultimates way later Kyle. might see you there... :ph34r:

GTR needs to go back in but Adrian is being lazy. Will have to wait till after i go overseas now =(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...