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JUN SR20 S15 (300kw @ wheels mild tune) FS (aussie spec)


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38,000 kms odometer reading (motor built less than 2000km ago)

Induction & Cooling -

- Garrett custom 3037 {600HP rated) roller bearing (ICE / Race Pace customised)

- Greedy plenum (polished)

- Greedy triple core drag S15 radiator kit.

- Craig Davies 16inch thermo fan

• HKS Type R (108mm) Drag INTERCOOLER

- RACE PACE supplied top mount stainless tuned length manifold

- TURBOSMART wastegate

- Customised RACEPACE stainless piping throughout turbo/intercooler setup.

- K&N Air filter

• HKS HI’POWER 3inch CAT BACK EXHAUST SYSTEM

- Greedy 16 row oil cooler kit (anodised version)

Engine specifications - - fully blue-printed motor

Top end -head

• JUN SR20DET HEAD BOLTS

• JUN TITANIUM VALVE RETAINERS

• JUN 1.6MM METAL HEAD GASKET

• TOMEI CAM PULLEYS

• HKS LASH KILLER KIT

- Tomei pro-cams (280 lift)

- Tomei titanium valve springs

- Tomei solid lifters (non-hydrolic for sustaining high RPM)

• PORT / POLISHED HEAD & match ported.

Bottom end-

• JUN SUPER FORGED CONRODS

• JUN SUPER FORGED PISTONS

- JUN - PISTON RINGS

• JUN SR20DET BOTTOM END BOLTS

• ARC ENGINE OIL SUMP

Fuel System -

•NISMO 1000CC INJECTORS

- Bosch 044 external fuel pump

- XTR custom surge tank

• SARD FUEL REGULATOR

Drive Train / Suspension & Handling-

-Exceedy twin plate- brand new

- CUSCO 1.5 way LSD

- Project mU slotted & drilled discs

- BREMBO R33 V-SPEC calipers.

• CUSCO BRAKE CYLINDER BRACE

• CUSCO FRONT STRUT BRACE

• CUSCO REAR STRUT BRACE `

• JIC MAGIC FULLY ADJ COIL OVERS

• NISMO REAR ARM ASSEMBLY - upper & lower links

- C's short shift kit

ECU - electronics

- Micro tech LX series (laptop programmable)

- Bosch individual coil packs

Wheels -

• 18INCH VOLK RACING CHALLENGE RIMS - in rare diamond black (18 by 9 front & rear)

Exterior Cosmetics (lil bit a RYCE !)

• CWEST CARBON FIBRE BONNET (not on car but will provide)

• D-SPEED WIDE BODY FLARED/GILLED FRONT GUARDS

• CWEST Spec 2 FULL BODY KIT (sprayed in R34 GTR blue)

• NISMO CLEAR INDICATORS

• NISMO OIL CAP

• NISMO PETROL CAP

• NISMO RADIATOR CAP

****305 rwkw @ 20 pounds of boost**** Motor is built to hold 40 pounds plus. Only driven it twice since I got the car back from RACEPACE last weekend and I can tell you that the power is so usable. Starts producing boost at 2600rpm and its "fully on" at around 5500rpm. Engine is built for 9300rpm but rev-limiter has been set at 8000rpm. New turbo has got at least another 100kw@wheels left in it with a little more boost. With this power and boost level, it wouldnt even tickle this motor. Motor can easily support over 450kw @ the wheels (using a HKS T51R previously - it made 477.7rwkw earlier this year before MAS)

Well over $50,000 spent on parts and labour alone (not inc car). Car is in mint condition as far as interior and exterior. Engine has just been run in; less than 2000km on motor. Just spent in excess of $9000 on completely new turbo setup by Ben @ RACEPACE. I have receipts for all parts and labour since I bought this car new in April 2001.

The complete package has costed me in excess of $100,000 to build.

TOO MANY TIME WASTERS, TOSSERS, TYRE KICKERS, WANKERS, DICK HEADS, DREAMERS ETC. CAR IS OFF THE MARKET FOR NOW. PROJECT Z COMING SOON TO MELBOURNE.

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Guys i was with Damian this weekend and went for a run in it. This car is unbelievable!!

I really want him to keep it, but he wants to move on. The car has no lag and on boost is just a sight to see. My liner has 220rwkw and all i could do is watch this s15 tear me to shreads!! (with him granny shifting i might add!!)

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Thanks BMT.

I have a few questions to ask:

Why was the engine rebuilt after the major enhanced build??  

Did you get a new block or use the old one and rebuild it?

Has the block been prep'd at all? eg sleeved?

Is it the s15 engine which is built or an s15 block with s13 head (sorry cant tell from the pic)?

RNS11Z- what do you mean why the engine was rebuilt after the major enhanced build? The motor was only built once. It has the original block and head from the s15. Previously at the autosalons and auto expos last year and this year, it had another s15 spare block which had more of a subtle set up with arias pistons and eagle rods. This spare block was used for R&D purposes and then the new block (original one from car) was put in with all the JUN parts.

At first I was told by the engine builder that the block was O ringed and sleeved, but found out that it had only been sleeved.

As admin has stated - if you arent interested and dont have the means to purchase this car, please dont post replies on here and waste my time. Admin has already stated that banning people like this from classifieds will take place if this happens.

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bump - open to reasonable offers now. Or if you have a friend with a S2000 or GTR33 Vspec 96/7 above or a worked GTT34 or you own one of these, ill be willing to swap plus cash adjustment. Need something that is less angry to drive to and from work through the city.

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    • Well.... yes and perhaps no. It depends on what you mean by "spool". For most of us, the point that we would describe as where the turbo is "spooling" is the point where the wheel speed gets high enough for it to start making some boost. This is coincidentally around about the point where it starts making noise - hence the "spooling" sound. If that is what you mean, then no - the wastegate should still be shut at this point. The boost will still be way below the point where it should start opening. If, on the other hand, you mean "spool" as "reach full boost", then yes. At the point where the boost has reached target, then boost control has already started. The wastegate is already open, and has been for some time. Some short time, definitely, but still, some time. If you have no boost controller - just the wastegate actuator connected to the boost source, then you have a mechanical system working as a pressure balance. There is pressure on one side of the wastegate actuator's diaphragm from the spring, and pressure on the other side coming from the boost measurement location (the "source"). This is not a digital thing. The wastegate does not stay shut until the boost pressure reaches the spring "pressure". The spring will start to compress as soon as you start to apply any pressure onto it. This can be controlled somewhat by adding pre-load into the spring, but you cannot add enough preload to make it into a digital switch behaviour. The wastegate will crack open and start to leak exhaust out (and therefore not though the turbine) well before you reach the target boost pressure. Electronic (and some mechanical/pneumatic) boost controllers will act to prevent the boost source applying pressure to the actuator until just before you reach target boost, thus preventing the wastegate from creeping open. And some boost controllers will apply boost pressure on the spring side to further push it shut. And this can be be necessary because the exhaust pressure in the manifold also pushes on the wastegate valve and tries to open it and you cab get it leaking even without it being connected to the boost source.
    • A stand alone boost controller will not give you the control you need, unlike a modern ECU. Your boost will always naturally target the wastegate's opening pressure first, your controller then will allow you to add more boost as required.
    • I recently discovered that I could not remove the outer bolt on one of my rear UCAs. Looked like it was seized to the crush tube. It wasn't all that long since I had last had that arm out (I dunno exactly, but certainly <2 yrs), so I was a bit surprised. I thought I had stock bushes in the rear knuckles, so I ordered some new PU bushes and resigned myself to having to do some dismantlery....and some butchery. It was clear that the seized bush was going to need to have the bolt cut out of it and then possibly some more brutality after that. Upon getting the 3x arms on each side disconnected from the knuckles (with the exception of the seized one, of course), I discovered that I had in fact put PU bushes into the knuckles when I did the subframe conversion about 12-13 years ago. So, I say "Oh, good, I might not have to swap any of these others out". We set to work butchering the bolt out of the seized arm. Stainless blade in a big-arse Milwaukee recipro made short work of it, and also damaged the arm, which added a welding and grinding and painting step to the whole exercise. During the butchery it became clear that the bolt was not just seized but bent. Head scratching ensued, as it is hard to understand how that bolt could get bent. I did suffer a broken (stock) toe control arm on that side a few months ago, and drove some miles with some significant rear wheel self steer and lack of control, which probably was the cause. But it's still hard to understand how it would bend that bolt, rather than just bend the arm. But here's the start of the real discoveries. The crush tube was rusty as all shit. I mean seriously rusty. A little on the inside, contributing to the tube seizing to the bolt (along with the bend). But the outside had at least 2-3mm of compressed flaky iron oxide jammed in between the parent metal and the PU bush. This one was brutalised and still took some effort to get the PU off the crush tube. So I thought I'd inspect the others more closely. The one on the tension rod adjacent the bent one was first. I had to use a 2-jaw puller to get the crush tube out, and it took some effort. It came out looking like the first one. All 6 of them were the same, except for one that looked not too bad. Had some corrosion on it, but was mostly OK. There was also a significant amount of corrosion on the inner surfaces of the knuckles. They took some convincing with pointy tools to let go their grip on the inside of the holes they were in. There was no sign of the original (SuperPro) lube anywhere. I and my bro-in-law have never seen any crush tube end up looking like this. It was seriously like the car has spent time putting boats into the water at the boat ramp. So, it seems like the PU might have been bonded to the steel on both sides, which would have to make them work more like stock rubber bushes (where arm deflection results in twist inside the rubber). Despite this, I have never had cause to believe that they were so tightly bound up. The suspension moved up and down much as you'd expect. The car never made any noises in those bushes that would have led me to believe there was a problem. Maybe the rusty interfaces actually were "sliding". Anyway, lesson learnt. Even quiet, non-troublesome PU bushes should be inspected every now and then!
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