Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nothing but problems after problems..

Right now the oil is mixing with the coolant. And It smokes when reved. At idle it does not smoke.

Before the intial install I:

1) checked the head for flatness

2) used a fresh Metal HG and sprayed with copper

3) had the head milled to flat

I did however reuse the stock head bolts. I did not check them for stretch. Would they cause this problem?

Are you supose to spray a new metal HG when you install it for the first time? I bought a Tomei metal gasket set, and I'm fixin to mate the head with block, but now I want to make sure this is nesesarry....

I did have the same thing happen to me once re using a HKS metal HG,and my mechenic told me it was because I used copper coat spray.

He said that copper spray is for exh flange use only, and it won't seal any fluids...

But I see people saying that use it on HG's all the time, so whats the real facts...??

I'd like to be 100% before I bolt my head on... HELP :burnout:

thanks

joel

Did you get your block decked ? If not that’s probably the problem, Your gasket won't be sealing properly, also did you use the correct tension settings for the head ?

Using the same head bolts shouldn't be a problem, Have done so in 2 cases. As long as they were installed correctly, eg stretched first, then tensioned, and so on.

Have you checked your cylinders to make sure no water is leaking into them ? Also check to make sure you haven't got and lines around the wrong way, eg turbo lines, water line going into oil inlet on block and so on.

I'm intrested to know if you find the problem. Good luck

Oil in the water indicates a leak from the oil gallery to the water jacket, this is possible because the oil is under pressure, more pressure than the water. When you stop the engine the oil pressure will go to zero, but there will be pressure still in the water system, until it cools down, around 20 psi depending on the radiator cap. So if it truly has a leak from the oil gallery to the water jacket you will get water in the oil as well.

A simple cooling system pressure test will tell if this is in fact the case, connect an air pump where the radiator cap goes and pump it up to around 20 psi. Watch and see if the pressure stays up, if it drops away then you have a leak. Sometimes you can actually hear where the leak is, they cost about $US70.

STA-12270.jpg

This may not be related to the smoke, easy way to check that is with a simple leak down test. Connect compressed air up to the spark plug hole in each cylinder (one by one) and see if it leaks. Once again you can generally hear where the air is escaping from. You can buy a leak down tester for $US60.

STR-CLT2PB.jpg

Your local friendly workshop should have both of these, maybe you can borrow.

Hope that helps:cheers:

on rb25s with the vvt the oil gallery at the front is very close to a water jacket, make sure your gasket is correct in this area. All the RBs have non torque to yeald head bolts so theres no need to replace them. Also check oil cooler, uncommon for them to fail, seen it happen on a few subarus though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... fk...   there goes 25K to make 200kW
    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
×
×
  • Create New...