Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers for all the positive response guys, its good to get my car going the way it should be

Shows the differance injectors make, the previous tune used to run minimal timing, low boost and lean mixture, approx 12.1 - 12.5:1 under full power

New injectors have allowed much more timing and boost, and still have plenty in reserve, Shaun tuned it to around 11.1-11.5:1 AFR's so its much much safer than before

Best 1/4 out of the old setup was 14 flat at 104.9mph, it should run a mid 13 with no probs now I would hope.

Matt - Saw your car yesterday, still without doubt one of, if not the neatest 33's around, will be good to see what power you get out of the cams

Roy, we should get a back to back dyno run when you are over with your car next, at least with your turbo setup there is a heap left in it, mine is pretty well running in its peak efficency range, with the new EBC we will run it at around 1.3bar, maybe a bit more, will have to wait and see. Your turbo would be suited to 1.5+ bar, so if you where game, it would really come alive at that boost, easy 250rwkw for the taking

Next mod for me is to optimise the exhaust, I have a few dump/front pipe combo's I want to try, along with a new exhaust manifold, hopefully it will boost up even quicker :D

:)

Chris

Hmmm... at 100km/h you have about 110rwkws and i have about 70rwkws

At around 150km/h you have about 190rwkws and i have 220rwkws....looks like my old RB20 will have to work a lot harder to earn her keep.:D But you seem to have max power at around 135km/h with mine more like 155km/h

It will be interesting to see how my car goes with the cat removed and dyno'd all the way to 7,500rpm. At the moment it looks as though the 2530 has the runs on the board.

As for 1.5 bar, from what i understand the TD06-20G doesnt really like that sort of boost level, apparantly 1.3-1.4bar is the sweetspot, and on a std engine 1.4bar is all im willing to run anyway, and thats only for 1/4mile blips, at the track ill stick with 1.2bar with scramble set at 1.4 bar for a bleep down the straight:)

Ill let you know when im heading back to Adelaide, its likey to be at the end of the month.:)

By the way...great work by all the RB20 boys contributing of late, its good to finally get some credible results and see the merits of each setup...means those who are considering upgrades wont be guessing or in the dark when trying to decide what they want from their RB20, or whether their goals are well past what an RB20 can readily (cheaply) muster:)

Hmmm... at 100km/h you have about 110rwkws and i have about 70rwkws

At around 150km/h you have about 190rwkws and i have 220rwkws....looks liek my old RB20 will haev to work a lot harder to earn her keep.  But you seem to have max power at around 135km/h with mine more like 155km/h

It will be interesting to see how my car foes with the cat removed and dyno'd all the way to 7,500rpm.  At the moment it looks as though the 2530 has the runs on the board.

As for 1.5 bar, from what i understand the TD06-20G doesnt really like that sort of boost level, apparantly 1.3-1.4bar is the sweetspot, and on a std enigne 1.4bar is all im willing to run anyway, and thats only for 1/4mile blips, at the track ill stick with 1.2bar with scramble set at 1.4 bar for a bleep down the straight:)

Ill let you know when im heading back to Adelaide, its likey to be at the end of the month.:)

By the way...great work by all the RB20 boys contributing of late, its good to finally get soem credible resutls and see the merits of each setup...means those who are considering upgrades wont be guessing or in the dark when trying to decide what they want from theor RB20, or whether their goals are well past what an RB20 can readily (cheaply) muster:)

Yeah, agree re the power differances, it will be interesting to see how they directly compare for 1/4 etc, at the moment revving mine over 6500 is a waste of time, as you can get back into full boost really quickly after a gear change and keep accelerating, but with yours you can keep it in gear a little longer and when you do change gears, your car will be at higher revs anyway and back on boost etc - this is going to be a really interesting comparison between low mount and high mount setups I reckon!! We will both be running similar boost etc, so the results will be directly comparible

Its good to see everyone getting good value out of there RB20's, sure they are never going to break any records, but there is plenty of fun to be had with the good 'ol RB20's :( As you say Roy, it makes it easier for all the other guys working out where to go with theirs too, or wether to fit a RB25/26/30 to suit there needs

If I can get another 10-15 kw from 6000rpm on, I'd be more than stoked with that,as thats where its lacking at the moment, other than that I can't fault it

keep up the good work guys!

:D Chris

Matt - Saw your car yesterday, still without doubt one of, if not the neatest 33's around, will be good to see what power you get out of the cams

Thanks mate. It's not the cleanest it's been. But that's mostly due to me using it a bit more often these days.

To be honest guys I won't see anywhere near 300rwkw on Shaun's new dyno. Either my car is down on power or the 290+rwkw numbers were flukes??? As Shaun ran it up the other day for a quick check (had a boost leak) and to do a 'before cams' run and it only made ~250rwkw on 19psi.

It made the bigger numbers in cooler weather and more boost (23psi dropping to ~20psi) so I guess the temp and extra 4psi would add a bit more but not THAT much more. The fact that Shaun's new dyno reads some 10-15rwkw lower (as Chris already mentioned) would also be a factor.

Having noted all that, the car doesn't "feel" any slower. I can still get the Nittos to spin like crazy at 80+k :) The drag strip will tell the full story. If I can get 121+mph TS or a flat 12/high 11sec pass I'll be happy enough.

Unless my car picks up another 25-30rwkws with the cat removed and a slightly more aggressive tune, then i cant see how an externally gated turbo on a std RB20 is worthwhile.

If i change setups i might go to a 2535?!?!?!?! Not sure. That said i dont think there is anything wrong with the Trust turbo setup, i just suspect its wasterd a little bit on a std RB20...no doubt if i had cams it would work better, or it was on an RB25 it would be a neat setup.

Phillip Island in 10days time will be the big test. Around 100-120min of bashing around the track with 222rwkws. If it performs hwo i suspect, i may spoil her with a set of cams...only problem is if the cam upgrade isnt as successful as i hope, everyone will know the resutls and reason for my selling them...lol i guess ppl wotn be happy to buy a set of RB20 cams then:(

Oh and Calder tomorrow night:thumbsup: If i cant get into the mid 13s ill be disappointed:(

Yeah, speaking to Shaun yesterday, it does seem that his dyno is down a fair bit compared to all the others - not a bad thing as its all comparitive if you get a before and after, so you can see any gains that have been made, should be good once its all done

Speaking to a guy at extreme horsepower, his 32 with stock injectors and 2530 turbo made 240rwkw at Tilbrooks at the same boost as what I am running

Chris

I think you'll be surprised Roy. I reckon you might just manage a high 12 with that kind of power mate. If you get enough runs in to score a decent launch followed by a clean pass then you might just do it.

Clint ran 12.8 @ 113 with 230rwkw.

I agree with Matt, if all hooks up and you get a decent run, the power is there for a 12 mate, and you are running good rubber, which helps allot

As I said in the other thread, just do a few drive of the line type runs and see what mph your car is running, if you can get a few runs around 110mph, with a good launch (under 2.2sec 60ft) there should be a 12 sec time slip waiting for you at the timing box :)

If I can coax another 10-15rwkw out of mine, I'd expect it would have enough power to run a high 12 with a good launch, mid 13 with a crap lauch

Either way, your mph will give you a good indication on what time is possible anyway

Chris

LOL...Chris you have driven my car, so you know how much play/slack it has in the driveline...LOL. too many track days.:)

So i wont be doing anything real dramatic in the way of launching or shifting. So stand by my aim of running a mid - low 13

The more i understand about dynos, the more i see they are pretty useless when trying to compare setups. With the power that we are looking at, a 10-15rwkws difference is huge, especially if your car is closer to 240rwkws and my thing is sitting in the mid 220s:(

Have you had an opportunity to look at how much ignition your tune has at peak torque, high up in the rev range etc etc. Im sincerely hoping mine is very conservative:(

In 4th gear i get 12 psi at about 4,300rpm.... All the talk about cam gears bringing it on earlier failed miserably. But looking at where my CAS is set at the moment, it looks to be fully retarded:confused: So perhaps when playing with the sam gears they werent able to adjust the base timign back to what it should be?

Dont know, im going back to have a look at the tune with cat and centre muffler replaced. 12psi and 120rwkws at 4,300rpm aint all that great:( So with modded exhaust and another play with the sam gears i hope im surprised with the result

Roy - Agree with dyno's being not too good for comparisons, but a run on the same dyno would allow us to draw a pretty accurate comparison

Your car will be fine at the drags mate, hopefully there are a few gains to be had by replacing the cat. Not sure about the CAS, maybe they have put the cam gears back a tooth out or something, that place seems to be as dodgy as a Ultratune mate!?!?!

Will check maps out this arvo, its pissing down with rain here so I don't have much to do at lunch, I will write them down

R31 - to be honest I havent noticed exactly what RPM I get 12psi at, I'd say it would be in the low 3000's, but it all depends on the load/gear etc, I will investigate further but it comes on quite early. Yours is a 2535 if I remember correctly?

Exhaust manifold should be done by the end of the month, trying a few dump/front pipe combo's on the weekend too, trying to optimise it for more tuning on monday :D

Chris...

Pay $35 bucks head down to Blackwood Auto & Dyno (Near the big yellow tyre shop + they have a sign on the side of the main road) and get a power run done.

Get a print out of boost & AFR's as I did. Its interesting to look at how the AFR's react when boost comes on.

:D

Here's my power run..

The car is run in but I'm not running boost as you notice how it is soo lean coming on to boost which is bad.

You can see the power dip where the ecu pulled ignition timing 22degree's to 8degree's & dumped some fuel in.

He hooked up a Nissan Datalogic thingo to underneath the steering column that reads all of the stock ecu settings & what it is currently at (hence the 22degree's to 8degree's ignition drop)

The stock ECU only just manages to keep up with the 3ltr.

The wastegate has been wired open on the stock turbo but still managed to make 6psi by 4000rpm.

I didn't take note of which gear it was done in.

Yeah, might do, but I will get a print out for free after Shaun does more tuning of monday :D

I will get one with AFR's and PSI on it as well, the tune I have now was a bit compromised due to the bleed valve spiking, so we left it pretty conservitive for the time being until we get the boost controller sorted out

Good to see your car up and running Joel, will be good to see what its like with a decent turbo and a bit of boost ;)

I can't wait until its got some boost in it.. :D

I've connected up the wastegate and in first gear as soon as you let out the clutch you can hear the turbo spooling like mad.

Its just a pitty I can't keep it spooling because it leans out ;)

I'll have to let you have a little spin just to spin out how fast it makes boost.

There literally is zero lag. lol

lol....3lts of displacement has turned to poor old RB turbs into a positve displacement blower!!!!

Well, you hate lag, so you'd be loving it at the moment! I'll have to take you for a spin in mine and show you what mines like,

Chris

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...