new RWD owner

[kiwi_rock]

Hi there,

Looks like a good place for any questions on stagea's. Just signed up, from NZ.

After owning a few Toyota all wheel drives that ppl thought where Subaru leperosy's (my Toyota's broke down far less), I deiced to go back a step to a 1996 RWD stagea, something with more tit and less parts to fix. I think they're terrific to drive. Suspension is the most road comfortable I've ever driven in the past few years appart from the 350Z I had for a week on loan. Thought I'd never own a Nissan, as they seem to rust quicker than a lot of others I've had (that doesn't seem to have changed much), but they this is my first Nissan and their comfort level for bad backs is tops.

I dunno if mine was a good price to pay or not, but I got mine for $8,700NZ with 92KM's. Had the power steering pipework replaced under warranty and a new rear main engine seal and re-silicon job on the aluminium plate on the bell-housing from an anoying bloody slow oil leak (turned out to be a pin-hole in the plate joining but looked like a rear main). Dealer got everything done under warranty including the stuff that didn't need done, no excess. Now I fell like I have a decent car.

I plan on getting the owners manual in english from Aussie and a workshop manual for the RB25DE some time afterwards. Car sales guy said it runs on 91 octane? although I'm running it on 96, I read somewhere the compression ratio of the 2.5L is designed for premium. 96 octane is the highest where I live, 98 in the bigger cities, so I went with 96. These things must have a knock sensor cause on 91 it was fine for a few full tanks.

Does anyone know if there are child seat tether points in the stagea wagons? I've got a little hook right behind the middle rear seat belt behind the seat, but it's anchored with a wide bar through the seat stitching which I don't think it's a tether point as I would have imaged it's for bolting. The rear cargo one's don't seem to be in a good spot for this use either.

Cheers,

Gavin.

[mcnamg]

Gavin,

Welcome to Stageas Australia.

It seems like all the NZ guys with stageas are flocking over here like sheep (oops sorry j/k poor taste). In all seriousness though congrats on the purchase I am sure you car will be very rewarding. Just to answer a few questions for you yes the cars are designed to run on premium unleaded fuel i think in japan they have 100 ron or higher butall we get in aus is 98 ron but if you get any knocking issues you can always add octane booster to each tank.

The child restraints are in the ceiling in the luggage compartment just inside the rear hatch. They should be covered by little black plastic dust covers. In the ones in Aus they add one in the centre position for compliance but in japan domestic models i am sure that they ony have 2 one for each outboard seat obviouldy due to less strict legislations. The little hook you mentioned is one of the cargo tie downs and i think its used to secure the optional (on series one models anyway) cargo net.

If you need any more info on specs and whatnot have a squizz at this may help a bit (btw sites still under construction) http://www.geocities.com/mcnamg/

Hope this helps

Cheers Glenn

[kiwi_rock]

I dunno what's up with the sheep thing and aussies. We've got far less per capita here lol. I'm half aussie anyway & the missus is a 100% aussie.

RE: octane, seems to run on 91 regular ok, so I went to 96 premium and still seems as good as. I had a feeling it should be running at least 96, I didn't think a skyline type engine should be on anything less unlike the sales guy. It's $1.31 a litre for 96 here which I don't mind, dunno what 98 is worth. I could also pump some $4.31 a litre avgas 115 octane at the areoclub, that'd be fun.

Yip, I know the cargo net tie downs above the rear strut wells, I have my net up (it's a 25X model). Plus there's the 4 on the floor for another third party net or rope. But this one's behind those spring-hinged flaps that go up and down with the seat to cover the gap between the folding part of the middle seat and the bottom of the seat. It just doesn't seem secure enough to me compared to the cargo one's. Oh well, I flicked an email to Nissan NZ to see if they have other ideas.

I pulled off all the plastic clip covers in the rear just then to see, but they are only screw covers for the clips. I think they're for those pull-out covers which mines missing. I love the idea of the cigarette socket in the back, very handy.

BTW, what RPM does the 4 speed auto cruise at on 100KM's? Mine's 2400, usually 1900-2000 in 3rd around town. I don't feel the converter lock up in mine, haven't gotten that in tune with the drive line yet. Although I do notice it kicks a tad after acceleration then taking the foot of the gas. But I've noticed all auto's do this, this one is just a little more noticable having a 6 cly in it and a little more hevy.

Cheers,

Gavin.

[mcnamg]

i think you may need to put the anchor points in yourselft for the child restraints but they are located in the roof to make sure cargo space isnt comprimised.

The cargo net has about 4 configs you can use it in maybe its meant to be used for another of those but i dont know which one sorr

[Ant]

RE: octane, seems to run on 91 regular ok, so I went to 96 premium and still seems as good as. I had a feeling it should be running at least 96, I didn't think a skyline type engine should be on anything less unlike the sales guy.  It's $1.31 a litre for 96 here which I don't mind, dunno what 98 is worth. I could also pump some $4.31 a litre avgas 115 octane at the areoclub, that'd be fun.

The 2.5L NA Skylines engines have a quite high compression ratio (10.something:1), so 96 is definitely recommended. I run 98 in my GTS25 Skyline (same engine as your 25X), found that the $'s/km work out to be pretty much the same as 96 - costs 5 - 10% more but gets me 5 - 10% further per tank.

[FaithStalker]

hey hey welcome kiwi rock!!!!!!! -

new here myself, hope u enjoy the stag,

i'm still waiting for the wife to pick up mine-i mean ours- even then it will be end of november before i'm back in Auckland to drive it (in Christchurch at the moment) but it is essentially her car for work in the week

i'll put my mark on it though - soon enough

dont foget to visit here

http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/

some stagea owners/users from here on there too!

....ahh the family is growing....

[BensDR30]

Hi & welcome to our (fast growing!) collection of Stagea owners. Get your owners manual from http://www.jpnz.co.nz

My RSFourV will lock up the converter at speeds as low as 55km/h (or thereabouts), but only in ideal cruising conditions. It's a far more intelligent shift pattern that a lot of cars I've driven. 100km/h rpms are around 2200 I think. However, the lockup is almost not noticable to the occupants, the only way to be certain is to gently squeeze the throttle open a few % and notice the lack of rpm flare.

[SafT]

Gavin,

Welcome to Stageas Australia.

It seems like all the NZ guys with stageas are flocking over here like sheep (oops sorry j/k poor taste

All you aussie guys are just copying the NZ'ers who have had them for ages :idea:

at least ours are still the fastest for now :bahaha:

[Jay95R33]

LOL - I think your Father's Stagea is gunna be the fastest Aus/NZ one for a while yet.

11.7 is damn quick and very respectable

[kiwi_rock]

I found it, the torque converter locking up. With OD locked at about 90K's there's a sudden 300RPM reduction (hardly noticable as someone mentioned). Sits on 2350RPM at 100K's I've decided on the reasonbly flat road.

Got a reply from Nissan re: tether points, none for this import year from Japan. Oh well, 6 months to sort that out. Nissan NZ are faster at looking up stuff and replying to emails than a few other's I've delt with, considering it's a Jap import.

Spent today removing the rear hatch seal (after checking for any hidden anchor points) and doing some sanding/air painting at the bottom of the panel joints near the hatch door bolt. Found some light rust under the seal there, but nothing I couldn't sand back with the drill and repaint, then re-tighten the seals grasp. :idea: Which brings me to another question, why on earth does the rear hatch have an electric motor to help the locking mechanisim latch down on the door? Least it stops the missus from slaming it now.

:idea: Hey & how do I tell if I have a limited slip diff? Sometimes I get stuck, second attempts are fine up the likes of a 35 degree grassy slope. I found putting the hand brake on slightly was enough to stop wheel spin to get moving once. So I'm guessing it's proberly all open in the RWD?.

Thanks for all the replies guys, hugely appreciated. I'll go have a nosey on the .co.nz forums soon.

Cheers,

Gavin.

[Terminal]

I figured the motor on the rear hatch was for lazy people who couldn't be bothered to close the door properly... like me

[FaithStalker]

....What motor?!?

:conf:

[Happymeal]

dude, close the boot lid very very slowly, like you might do by accident and leave it ajar slightly. Listen carefully and you will hear a click, watch in amazement as the boot pulls itself closed witha whirring sound and clicks into the locked position. No more slamming required. Let it fall in place lightly and it will lock itself closed everytime.

[FaithStalker]

:rave:

:bananaman :bananaman :bananaman

:boinkcar:

...awesome...

[StageaRS4]

Yeah SafT, I watched that video the other day...Insane! Great to see something different on the strip. :burnout:

[nzstagea]

RE: octane, seems to run on 91 regular ok, so I went to 96 premium and still seems as good as. I had a feeling it should be running at least 96, I didn't think a skyline type engine should be on anything less unlike the sales guy. It's $1.31 a litre for 96 here which I don't mind, dunno what 98 is worth. I could also pump some $4.31 a litre avgas 115 octane at the areoclub, that'd be fun.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I ran my 25X Four for 1000km on Shell 91 and 1000km on 96, it works out 80cents per 100km cheaper to us 96, even though it is 5c per litre dearer - plus it responds better to the right foot on 96.

As for revs, mine sits at around 2500 on the rev counetr at 100kph, torque converter only locks up when it warms up, which can take 10km in the winter with my car. Before that it sits at 2700rpm, and you can feel it lock up, sort of like a really soft change.

BTW -- I've been told not to go into overdrive under 80kph, as the Torque converter bearing can stuff up and cause NZ$2700 overhaul!! Of course don't use OD when towing either - great tow cars these, although they drink the gas when towing a caravan!

[kiwi_rock]

I've thought about doing some towing with it, although I'll have to ad a towbar first, then perhaps a transmission cooler. After reading about that weird idlign issue, mine seems to run fine, starts up at 1,500 til the airbag's do a check, then sits on 1,200 cold, then 700 warm. Brakes don't seem to make any difference.

Well after having the rear main seal replaced one week, new silicon seal done on the rear aloy gasket the next week, I think the bugger still hasn't stopped leaking a drip of oil every 400K's, or at least showing signs of a slight leak on the bottom of the bell housing (fingers crossed it's still residue from replacing the main rear).

Mechanics had it up on a hoist running for 2 hours after pressure testing the engine and re-sealing the bellhousing, then as always, get it home, plonk on the K's... then it shows up a slight trace of a new leak they keep missing, not dripping yet, but it's slowly gathering on the bottom of the bell housing, and doesn't appear to be run off from anywhere else but the seal or from the little vent hole used to lock the fly wheel up. Think I'm just having a bad run with pin holes in the gasket sealant at the rear, or fingers crossed before I get time to have the transmission pulled out again that it goes away.

Otherwise I'm still impressed with it's condition otherwise, already used to have a 6 cylinder.

Cheers,

Gavin.

[kiwi_rock]

The mechanics filled the engine oil to just over the "H" on the dipstick but below the indent on the stick its self. After getting the rear main and the gasket's done, I've emptied about 500ml to get the oil level spot on the top of the cross-hatch below the "H' letter. Where abouts do you guys fill it to?

Cheers,

Gavin.

[StraightSix]

Yeah SafT, I watched that video the other day...Insane! Great to see something different on the strip. :burnout:  

Linky to vid? I wanna see

[mcnamg]

Here You Go clicky linky

enjoy

:wassup: :wassup: :wassup: :wassup: :wassup: :wassup: