Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All..

Im looking at getting the iridium plugs (pre-gapped at .8mm), but it seems after searching that people use different heat ratings..

What is the recommended range for a car that would be pushing about 200RWKW in the future ??

I would think the BKR6EIX would be the go - however, if anyone thinks the BKR7EIX i would like to hear...

:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54967-spark-plug-heat-range-6-or-7/
Share on other sites

yes, definately use the 7 as you will be pushing higher combustion temperatures so this plug is better designed for that....also I have more horsepower than this and the 7's are great....don't go 8 or 9 though, very bad.

I think 6's are too cold for 12 psi, 7 would do... I run 14 psi with sevens all day long and they work fine. I would only go 6's if you are having knock problems. Sometimes if your plugs are the wrong heat range or too hot like 8's or 9's they can act like glow plugs and cause you mixtures to detonate early in the cylinder causing knock.

my 2 cents, correct me if i am wrong :(

I think 6's are too cold for 12 psi, 7 would do... I run 14 psi with sevens all day long and they work fine. I would only go 6's if you are having knock problems. Sometimes if your plugs are the wrong heat range or too hot like 8's or 9's they can act like glow plugs and cause you mixtures to detonate early in the cylinder causing knock.  

 

my 2 cents, correct me if i am wrong :(

Actually 6's are a hotter plug, 7 are a colder. you had it the wrong way round :-)

I got sixes then mate/tuner said take them back and get sevens - it won't hurt.

I've had no probs running sevens with stock boost even on cold mornings and there's room for improvement next time we tune and up the boost.

allrighty then - looks like im hearing a bit of support for the 7's..

Well ill actually do a correction - i am runing stock boost levels, but with the full exhaust and intercooler its actually running about 8psi at WOT (acording to boost gauge)..

But - thanks for the replies guys - 7's it is.

allrighty then - looks like im hearing a bit of support for the 7's..

Well ill actually do a correction - i am runing stock boost levels, but with the full exhaust and intercooler its actually running about 8psi at WOT (acording to boost gauge)..

But - thanks for the replies guys - 7's it is.

I'm running 6's in my car at the moment, with around 15psi, but the plugs have been re-gapped to around .7 - .8, and haven't had any problems, the only reason I would go 7's is if I’m getting detonation or pre-ignition, where the plugs is re-taining the heat and as soon as fuel is pumped into the cylinder it ignites, at the wrong time... But with stock boost you won't have anything to worry about.

So most people go 7's if thier running more then stock boost, and usualy for a saftey thing.

Yep - i just heard back from Repco..

BKR7EIX - not available, according to ngk - they only make them in BRK7EIX-11, which are gapped to 1.1m...and ngk dont recommend re-gapping iridiums...

BKR6EIX - available, $24 each.....

So - for the iridiums pre-gapped to .8m, i think i have to go 6's....

Yea i know about the copper - main reason i wanted to go the iridiums is because i can change them way less frquently..

My intercooler piping crosses the block, so i have to disconnect it everytime i change the plugs...

So to go iridiums, it will save me time and $$ in labour...they last about 100k....

Looks like ill be going the BKR6EIX's...

I use NGK BKR7E (V-Power 'grooved' plugs) gapped at 0.9mm. Nope, no misfires, even at 17psi. These plugs are the best ive used (considering the platinums misfied like all hell at 0.9mm) and best of all, they're cheap! Stuff like octane booster fouls plugs easily, so if they are a bit shagged, toss em out and throw in a new set every 10,000ks...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...