Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heylo,

I've taken my brakes off (or rather had someone else take them off) and I've misplaced these metal plate things that sit in the caliper.

Now I need to buy some more and I don't know what they're called!

These are r32 brakes, if you look at the inside of the caliper (where the pads would sit) these are metal plates sort of measuring probably about 3cm by 4 or maybe 4cm by 4cm. They kind of click/sit into the caliper and are perpendicular to the pads. There are 2 of them per caliper.

Can anyone please tell me what they're called? Pictures would be greatly appreciated I could point out where they sit!

Thanks guys - hopefully I can ask my guy to buy these today but without knowing what they're called it would be hard/impossible.

Ta!

perpendicular or parallel to pads? if they sit between the pad and the piston inside the caliper you mean the "anti squeal shims", a very narrow piece of metal that covers where the piston connects?

They're at the end of each inner side of the piston but perpendicular from the pads. They sit at each end of the pad.

So if the car was going forward in motion and the wheels were straight you could say the pads were length-wise to the car. These would be width-wise.

I'm not sure where the pad connects, i thought they sat on a pin.. but yeah these metal pads are definately perpendicular to the pad.

Thanks for the reply guys, when i showed the mechanical engineer the ones that were left (and i didnt lose) when I saw my car guy he said they werent ultra-necessary either.

He said it just stops the pad from shuddering and stuff... to be that sounds pretty important. I was gonna order some from nissan (i only need 3 so i assume I'd be ordering 4) but that means my car will be off the road for a little longer.

How bad on a scale of 1 to 10 would it be not to have them? what coudl the consequences be? I would imagine under braking if the pad is not 100% secure and able to move even slightly i would imagine the way it beds in and scores the disc will be different... that's bad no?

Yes that sounds around right red - it does stop it.

I'm going to bring the last one into UAS tommorow to see if they'll sell me one off some brakes they have spare, then they can order new ones to put in. I'm happy to do that if they are.

Schweeet.. Go Tim @ UAS.

I'm just hoping the wheel hub for s14 I ordered will have the correct splines to go on my cef... i'm scared.. but hopeful... but scared.. someone hold me.

Okay the final verdict is that noone will seperate them from a wreck. Noone sells them seperately and only Nissan sells a caliper "kit" that has all the little pins and metal things in it and apperantly that is $80.

Needless to say my calipers are now back on my car minus 4 little metal shims/pads.

We'll see how we go ;)

sorry dude i thought you meant inbetween the piston and pads, you mean the locators to help allign the pad. good luck id call around some reckers

I'm in build something good from it or throw it out mode at the minute. If I can find mine I'll send them to you. They have no place on my cars. And are one of the first things I pulled off...

TT

Yeah called wreckers, I might have to sit down with the phonebook the few I've called are all not seperating them or say that if the calipers aren't working they won't take those things off they just bin the lot.

Thanks Targa Tom but why do you take them off? If there's no point having them then there's no point being concerned on my part I guess... what's the go?

Those are Pad Guides. You need them...the plates/shims that everyone keeps talking about are not so important as they only help prevent squeaks. Your rear caliper should be the same as a 180sx from memory but I will find out what other car you can get the fronts from. Those pad guides are what the little feet on the sides of the pad slide into right?. Just wanna make sure we are on the same level here. Also there is a leaf type spring mechanism on top of the pads. This is semi important. Try to keep this. Look out for the next post. If all else fails, I'll track some down for you and mail the things to ya if that's what it takes for you to have safe brakes. After all, without those guides...there is a possibility under hard braking that the pad can wedge itself onto the disc and cause a massive lockup.

Well in the last two years we have done Targa Tas... There are one or two occassions when during the 500+ competitive stages we touch the brakes... No massive lock-up.

We now run two cars, one kicked off last week at Baskerville last week. He also used the brakes a few times to slow down.... no massive lock-up.

In fact I have put about six sets of front pads thru my car in two years without drama.

Could you please explain how a small anti-rattle clip is going to cause a massive lock-up.

Because I might need to put them back in?

TT

Well in the last two years we have done Targa Tas... There are one or two occassions when during the 500+ competitive stages we touch the brakes... No massive lock-up.  

We now run two cars, one kicked off last week at Baskerville last week. He also used the brakes a few times to slow down.... no massive lock-up.

In fact I have put about six sets of front pads thru my car in two years without drama.

Could you please explain how a small anti-rattle clip is going to cause a massive lock-up.

Because I might need to put them back in?

TT

Well there's no need to be a smart arse about it. Obviously you would have read the post where I said the words: POSSIBILITY and HARD BRAKING.

They are there to stop the pad from moving excessively inside the caliper. I didn't write it to scare anyone but to note the importance that these things have. Nissan don't pour millions of dollars into design and research only to have someone tell them that their money is wasted...."just throw them away". Because I'll tell you now that if he has his car insured and it happens to be in an accident, his insurance will be void because they are not there. if the pad moves around too much, he'll bend the pins, eventually they can snap or come out, then pads fly out.

I'm here to help him out and all you wanna do it hang shit.

Good one.

Well there's no need to be a smart arse about it. Obviously you would have read the post where I said the words: POSSIBILITY and HARD BRAKING.

They are there to stop the pad from moving excessively inside the caliper. I didn't write it to scare anyone but to note the importance that these things have. Nissan don't pour millions of dollars into design and research only to have someone tell them that their money is wasted...."just throw them away". Because I'll tell you now that if he has his car insured and it happens to be in an accident, his insurance will be void because they are not there. if the pad moves around too much, he'll bend the pins, eventually they can snap or come out, then pads fly out.

I'm here to help him out and all you wanna do it hang shit.

Good one.

"They have no place on my cars" - Please read "my"

"I'll have a look and see if I can find them" (Which I have and he can have them if he wants)" Is taht not trying to save him some readys at the wreckers?

We remove the rattle clips as a safety issue... It makes a visual check of our brakes quick and easy... and change if needed can be effected.

Now I havent been round Nissans for long... and yes know their R & D is top notch - but I have removed a lot of rattle clips. And they have never caused bent or broken pins. All the calipers we use only ever get knock off if you have a really bad tank slapper (Bikes) or hit somthing extremely hard (car)... anyhow what would I know.

"someonestolecc" if you still need them I have a set of front and rears. PM me with delivery details.

TT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...