R33: Installing Whiteline Swaybars?

[Anquetil]

Can anyone point me to some guides on installing adjustable swaybars on a 33?

Couldn't find anything around here or on the whiteline website.

I got quoted $200 to install which I thought was a bit steep and half the price of the bars themself!

Is the rear easier to do than the front? From what I've read I should put it up on ramps (which I have)?

The bushes and 'hooks' that also came with the bars looks nothing like the factory ones.

Is it best to undo the bushes first or the bolts on the lower control arms?

Anyone in Brissie that can help, theres a slab/bottle in it for you?

[Sydneykid]

Stabiliser bars are sooooo easy to install, this is how I do it.

Drive car onto ramps

Chock it, handbrake on, in gear

Unbolt the links. remember where they were bolted

Unbolt the D bush brackets and remove the std bar

Put new D bushes on Whiteline bar, first smear some lubricant on the inside of the D bushes

Fit brackets ove D bushes and lift bar into and bolt up

Fit new links, first smear some lubricant on the inside of the link bushes

Check bolts

Do same for other end. Hope that helps:cheers:

[Anquetil]

Thanks for that SK!

[Zahos]

Would these adjustable sway bars reduce body roll significantly on an R33 with standard springs and shocks? I am asking b/c I want to leave my car at the standard height b/c:

a) trying to keep my car looking as stock as possible

B) keep the standard ride height for comfort reasons as it is my daily driver

but I dont like the amount of body roll the R33 has when cornering sometimes.

would I be wasting my money?

thanks

Zahos

[GTRgeoff]

Also it's important that you have weight on the wheels as the fronts will foul on the lower wishbone so SK's advice on the ramps is critical. Jacked up it just won't fit.

Zahos, it was good for 5 seconds at Sandown so go ahead. I only had lowered springs.

[yogi000]

I've been looking at the handling kit from white line

Comes with the blades, caster kit and rear camber kit for approx $615. do you guys reakon its worth getting all the bits or just the bars?

The codes for the kits are:

R33 gts : knis05h

R32 gts : knis14h

[(B1) MR_fanny]

these swaybars in my opinion are worth every cent. i got my front and rear adjust for $320 +66 for installation cause it only took an hr but in highsight would have only cost $30 if i had of done the rears myself. the fronts were just too dificult.

as for performance with stock suss, they significantly reduce body roll. i honestly felt the difference straight away just buy driving out of the workshop when i picked the car up. the car does occasionally skip slightly over bumps but thats because i set the rear to hardest...but thats the way i like it. .....best money ever spent.

[locosam]

Does putting on swaybars generate more grip for the car? or does it just flatten out the corners so you can take them harder?

So if you had a choice for no swaybars but sticky tires or swaybars but not so sticky tires, which would you choose?

I guess with swaybars the car will handle better, but can the same car without the upgraded swaybars go around a corner at the same speed?

[Anquetil]

Well just about there with the rear bar, but am not sure about 2 things?

1. In the picture there are 2 nuts, which are currently all the way to the bottom, should they be in a certain position on the bolt? As central as possible?

2. There are 2 settings on the bar, which is soft and hard?

Thanks for any help?

[Lunatic Dancer]

hmmmmm...its been a while since i installed them on my 180...

with the bolts......i just did them so they are tight in conjunction with the top nut...

so the bushes are snug and dont move on the lower control arm...

if u know what i mean...just make sure that BOTH sides (of bar) are the same length overall..

where bolts, bushes, nuts are ...needs to be identical...

the stiffness...looks like its on the 'soft' setting....bolt holes - further into bar is stiffer.. so no.1 = stiffer

after installing them...i could definitely feel an improvement...not as much as i thought

though, but i already had damn stiff coil-overs...so if u are running standard shocks etc..

you will be happy...

[Lunatic Dancer]

also....after installing uprated swaybars, do you usually have to get a wheel alignment?

[Anquetil]

I just made em central on the bolt and identical on each side.

Just went for a thrash, and it was noticable but not as much as I thought it would be, I'll leave it on soft for a couple of weeks then switch over to hard so I should be able to tell the difference between the two.

[(B1) MR_fanny]

also....after installing uprated swaybars, do you usually have to get a wheel alignment?

nah u dont need a wheel alignment.

ideal street settings should be medium at the front and soft at the back i think. ..dont quote me on that though:D when i got mine done i set it to med front and hard back. the first time they installed the back the did it wrong, it was pre-loaded so it was supper stiff and you could really feel it and get the tail end out anytime u wanted to. i now understand the principles of those super thick/stiff dori bars in japan:D got them to reinstall it correctly and i could notice the difference in the rear end, wasnt as tight as before. all comes down to settings and how u like to drive i guess.

[GTRgeoff]

Well just about there with the rear bar, but am not sure about 2 things?

1. In the picture there are 2 nuts, which are currently all the way to the bottom, should they be in a certain position on the bolt? As central as possible?

2. There are 2 settings on the bar, which is soft and hard?

Thanks for any help?

Shane, 1. central on the thread or so the bar doesn't foul is good but ensure the pressure on the nolathane is firm as previously mentioned. I would recommend getting Centreline to balance them so there is no preload left or right. If there is any slight twist due to manufacture or installation the bar will preload one wheel slightly and upset the handling a little.

2. the settings are hard toward the bar and soft toward the end. I have mine set at fully soft on the rear and fully hard on the front. You may not notice a significant difference until you get the front on and both set to complement each other in a balanced way.

You have 3 settings with the 2 holes at the rear. Full hard - both toward the bar. Medium - with one each way. Full soft - with both toward the end.

On the front, if you have the 4 hole bar, you can configure similarly for greater control over setup.

These are the scriptures according to Sydneykid, guru of all things suspension.

locosam, the bars will generate more grip due to better contact of all 4 tyres, but not as much as sticky tyres. I have found that the Dunlop DO1J tyres were good foor 5 seconds a lap at PI for me, and maybe more if they were mine and I was willing to push them harder (didn't want to flat spot Roys tyres) but the bars (and a better tune/more power) gave me an improvement of 5 seconds at Sandown where the power and getting it to the ground out of 3 critical turns is more important. I would expect(hope) the combination to be worth greater than the sum of the two and provide 9-10 seconds at PI but am yet to test the theory.

Since you wouldn't drive everyday on semi-comps, do the bars as they are cheaper than the tyres and last forever. The tyres may be destroyed faster at the track by not having the bars.

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys, under Stage Suspension thread, in the Stage section, I have posted a step by step picture guide for fitting front and rear Whiteline Stabiliser bars to a Stagea. The general layout on the Stagea is pretty much the same as on R33GTST, R33GTR, R34GTT and R34GTR. The sizes vary of course.

Hope it is of some help:cheers:

[GTRgeoff]

Don't want to look in case I'm wrong everywhere:Oops:

SK's advice is always on the money so take a look guys.

[Zahos]

these swaybars in my opinion are worth every cent. i got my front and rear adjust for $320 +66 for installation cause it only took an hr but in highsight would have only cost $30 if i had of done the rears myself. the fronts were just too dificult.

Hey B1, what does the $320 include?? Just the bars, or the bushes that go along with it too?

I get some squeeky noises from my front end, and it doesn't feel as rigid as it used to, so I suspect I have some worn bushes, only I dont know enough about this matter to determine which ones need replacing. Can any1 suggest what bushes I should be changing (not just from a maintanance point of view, but from a handling point of view)?

Thanks

[(B1) MR_fanny]

comes with bushes too...what ud normally get in a swaybar kit.

best bet is to replace all the bushes if u can:D im no expert though.

[Anquetil]

Back again.

Attempting the front swaybar, but am finding it impossible to get to this nut out (in red)

Tried to drop off the Radius Rod (in green) but its sooo tight as well.

Any sugegstions please?

[Sydneykid]

This is how I did it on the Stagea;

And you get at the nut at the rear (14 mm socket and medium extension), it is a bit hidden up above the radius rod bush;

For some reason code is OFF. Why?

If you can't see the picture, go the the Stagea Suspension thread, it's all there.