Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some times I take off in second as I find it quicker to get out in front of traffic. :D

Have a read of the thread in Forced Induction.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=55503

I've been muttering to myself a little but I've came to understand the issue I've had on the stock ecu.

Exhaust Reversion.. :)

I'm running N/A cams and a stock turbo (rb20t). The N/A cams have a decent overlap that with the high manifold back pressure causes exhaust reversion when coming on to boost (where exhaust reversion is noticed the most).

Only way out is a set of adj. cam gears, different cam and or a larger turbo.

The 3ltr is the way to go though. Make sure you select the right pistons to keep that factory .045-.050" squish otherwise you will drop in economy instead of picking some up. The rod angle of the 3ltr with the right squish "should" provide a more efficient engine.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I used a ryco when cycling my oil.. Hopefully it stopped all the stuff.

I was at UAS the other day so I picked up a JIC oil filter (j-brand) so we'll see how that goes - good idea about cutting it open I never thought of that (duhh).

Will let ya guys know what it looks like (although I must admit my oil is a better colour than when the ryco was on it).

For those who are interested in buying Amsoil oil filters, I spoke with Bruce and for Melbourne area people you can go to;

Lubrication Management Systems

127B Lonsdale St

Dandenong

(ask for Bill Reid, top bloke)

Now, as for me, Geelong has an Amsoil distributor;

Zoom Master

31 Barwon Tce

Geelong

(ask for Kevin)

There are 2 main oil filters for the RB25DET, SDF15 & SDF34. The SDF34 is the recommended one, but the SDF15 will fit and is almost an inch larger, has the exact same filtration properties (10-15 microns), 7-9psi pressure dif valve, retention valve, etc.

I'm going to head down next week to Zoom Master and just make sure the SDF15 fits.

PS. For those maybe wanting to do a group buy, Bill said he'd do a good price, I just can't be farked!

:P ... Kyran

  • 1 month later...

I just pulled apart a cooper. I went to autobarn to get some of the $3 specials a while ago and the guy said be very careful with them as a friend stuffed his motor when some paper came loose. I have used them in the family cars for the past 3-5 years no worries. He reckoned change them every 5k saying the rycos are better.

I read an article on the net praising the coopers but wanted to see for myself.

This one here has been in the gfs 91 model corolla for 10,000kms with oil change at 5,000 kms. (Engine has 220k kms on it). Oil filter shown is Z386 - for skyline it is Z145a, but I assume all coopers are of a similar standard.

Things to note. There was plenty of oil still in the filter which means the anti drain back valve was still working fine. You can usually tell this by the weight (comparing to new filter)

The can and spring (spring is to keep pressure on the Anti drain back valve

img02190ql.jpg

The parts - from left, paper filter, case, spring, Anti drain back valve

img02255bx.jpg

By pass valve at bottom, cannot see too well. You can se the little holes to allow filtered oil to flow through to the centre section.

img02285ag.jpg

Paper filter

img02299ai.jpg

I have new Nissan and cooper oil filters at home. On visual inspection the holes shown in the 3rd pic are larger on the coopers than the nissans, probably not a great thing as if the paper did give way then more chance of a larger piece making its way into engine. I have 2 coopers for a corolla at home and it seems the newer coopers have larger holes whereas older ones had more smaller holes. Don't know why they changed, probably not a big deal at all. After 10000kms the paper was still pretty firm and didn't appear as if it would give way. It didn't tear really easily.

I'm going to stick with the coopers. Never had a dodgy seal either whereas I've heard people with Rycos having probs.

  • 4 weeks later...

Now that I'm due for another change of oil filter (oil leaked out + new sump + new oil) other than having to trek to UAS for a JIC filter (which seemed to keep my oil a nice consistency/colour) are there any other brands to try?

Ryco I'm not impressed with (have heard too many bad things). Paper filters I'd rather shy away from if possible.

Does anyone else know of any good brands or recommend anything? What do all the track hounds use?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...