Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey matt.. what was the problem you were having exactly?

I am having a problem on my HR31.. with the LHS hub handbrake tends to stay jammed on once disengaged - resulting in the LHS wheel locking up, and other dangerous things.

I've had to resort to disconnecting the handbrake completely - and the problem had gone away.. but of course no handbrake.

I have taken off the disc, and had a look, sprayed some WD40 in the assembly in the hub, but this did not appear to fix the problem.

any advice on this issue would be great from anybody.

Hey matt.. what was the problem you were having exactly?  

I am having a problem on my HR31.. with the LHS hub handbrake tends to stay jammed on once disengaged - resulting in the LHS wheel locking up, and other dangerous things.  

 

I've had to resort to disconnecting the handbrake completely - and the problem had gone away.. but of course no handbrake.  

I have taken off the disc, and had a look, sprayed some WD40 in the assembly in the hub, but this did not appear to fix the problem.  

any advice on this issue would be great from anybody.

with mine the line had been crushed at some point and would not release the calipar, check the lines for damage just in case as it was $55 for a new line made now they work fine??? :) hope it helps

ahh thanks.. had a play this afternoon. Looks pretty much like exactly the same has happened to this one.

The extra bracket which is on the rear sway bar to hold it in place has rotated, managing to dig itself into the cable. Means it has trouble "springing back" into place. Anyhow, releasing the pressure on the cable has made it a fair bit better.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey just another question regarding handbrake, is the R31 handbrake calipers compatible with the R30 ones? Cos a rare spares place in Perth says that he has an R31 one, and he wasn't sure if it's legit for an R30 either. Wonder if anyone knows on here?

Thanks.

  • 5 weeks later...

While we're on R30 brakes, does anyone know if R31 disc rotors and calipers bolt straight onto an R30? I've been quoted stratopheric prices for new rotors and am thinking R31 parts are the way to go because they're more readily available.

Otherwise it looks like a trip to the wreckers and R30s are getting hard to find.

While we're on R30 brakes, does anyone know if R31 disc rotors and calipers bolt straight onto  an R30? I've been quoted stratopheric prices for new rotors and am thinking R31 parts are the way to go because they're more readily available.  

Otherwise it looks like a trip to the wreckers and R30s are getting hard to find.

They are a totally different hub set up.

The R31 & R30 really, easily aren't compatible, but if bigger is your go enquire from places like Jaustech and JMS for DR30 brakes from japan, or go have a look at Z31's as the rotors & calipers are the same as DR30.

Alternately, check some of your local parts shops for RDA rotors, they will probably cost you about $135.00 a rotor for standard slotted.

Thanks Ghostrider - that's the first useful reply I've had from three different forums - this one, Ozdat & R31 Skyline.

On the subject of handbrake cables I recently found out that Power Brakes SA is now making these up

That's OK, the DR brakes will cost you about $500 pair for struts complete and rear trailing arms about the same, but the disc rotors on a stocky would be cheaper, just fir decent pads like EBC green stuff on the front amd black on the rear

RDA stands for ROTOR & DRUMS AUSTRALIA Pty Ltd

I think they are an imported rotor, but they're cheaper than DBA and much better in my opinion.

  • 4 weeks later...

New handbrake cables, ~$80:

http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/71474209

Groucho - yes the Australian R31 discs & rotors will bolt up to the Australian R30 struts - but on early cars you will have to reverse the struts left-right due to the calipers fouling on the steering knuckles.

  • 5 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...