Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump pipe removal

Chris32

By Chris32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have two to try, one is a HKS style split dump pipe, and the other is a dump/front pipe in one of a mates R33, judging by whats for sale in the shops the 33 and 32 front/dump pipes you can buy fir both no probs

Hoping to try both out

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted
Will be doing it cold, first thing in the morning I hope

Plan is to removal the exhaust manifold heat shield etc and un-bolt it and bolt the other one up, hopefully :D

...and done it for you.

Long extension and undo three nuts (dump-front pipe) it should sit after dropping a bit if all OEM bkts are there.

10mm 1/4 drive and undo the bolts in the small turbo shield... unplug o2 sensor. 10mm ringy for the sheild bolts down near shock tower. These are brittle and may break (Clean thread and use copper eze when replacing)

Undo stubbie... think about it for a while.

No dramas really

TT

PS Did you say you had some spades that fit the ecu plug off a wreck? Need a couple.

Fazt_R33 Enthusiast

Fazt_R33

Posted
Posted

it is essential to have the car on a hoist to get to the turbo bolts? or can i jack it up or park it upcurve to get to the cat and turbo bolts?

any1 has an idea which cable is the oxigen sensor.....rb25det has 3..... but im not sure which one to connet the air/fuel gauge cable to???? any help?

Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dump pipe came of no probs, made sure I gave the bolts a good soak and didn't snap anything!

Problem was the two dump pipes had differant exhaust stud pattern, so it all came off ok............and had to go back on :)

3.5" dump next week, funnily enough, my car is making 205rwkw with a 2.5"dump and front pipe...........and a pair of 2" gaskets on the cat...........dodgy!!

Just by replacing the gaskets saw boost jump up a bit, so hopefully with a 3.5" dump, there is a few more kw's to be had

Cheers for all the help/suggestions guys :P

Chris

  • 2 weeks later...
JCMarshall_Law Proficient

JCMarshall_Law

Posted
Posted

Has anyone ever had a problem with the stud bolt snapping off in the turbo when removing the dump pipe?

I'm going to be changing my dump pipe this weekend. I would really like to know if I have to prepare myself for the painfull process of removing broken stud bolts.

The car is a 95 GTST,

Replys would be greatly appreciated, so if you have done it could you post up what happened either way.

Cheers,

Fazt_R33 Enthusiast

Fazt_R33

Posted
Posted

:whackit:

wooho.... goddamn is hot...

i jst replace ma dumpipe & frontpie....

the secret to NOT snapping the bolts is to tighten the bolts jst a tiny bit, sot that the locked treads unlock.... then undo the bolts with patients....shouldnt be to hard....

but dont make the mistake i made... make sure to put the turbo heat-shield back on.... it realy makes a dif temp wise in the bay...

if your gaskets, either turbo gasket or cat gasket are Copper gaskets, use these instead of the cheapo silver paper thingies.....

i beta get bak to undoin ma pipes to put heat-shield back on....... :)

josh303 Apprentice

josh303

Posted
Posted

the best stuff to spray on the rusted corroded bolts is, 'rost off plus' it's made by worth, im a truck mechanic and we have found it's the best thing for turbo and exhaust manifold bolts. it's not cheap but quality comes at a price..

cos dont we all hate drilling out broken bolts.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete_Repeat
      V37 wreck

      By Pete_Repeat · Posted

      Good points thanks. Unfortunately I can't seem to rename this or delete the topic. Seems like I'll ask the moderators to change it or delete it.
    • sonicii
      V37 wreck

      By sonicii · Posted

      You might want to update the thread title.  V37 ≠ V36.  And it probably isn't a G37 unless it is 2012+ Ininiti or LHD.
    • LaurelPWR
      Rb26- Enlarging Std Throttle Bodies

      By LaurelPWR · Posted

      Just a basic run down of the relevant bolt-ons. All e85 First graph 406.9whp is HKS GT-RS, HPI manifold, 3" bell mouth dump / 3" straight through fake cat / 3" all the way to the rear and no resonators, nismo 740cc, walbro 460, oem RB26 itb's, power fc, eboost2, Greddy Spec M fmic, poncams, Turbosmart actuator, splitfires, ARD 150amp alternator. Blue line is same as above but Blitz Dual SBC (before i upgraded to eboost2) and 100cell "high flow" cat. Red line is after installing eboost2 and the fake 3" cat (it's just a 3" pipe with a cat shell welded onto it). Huge gains in response, as can be seen. Black dots are a mates sr20 with almost identical setup but uses a garrett 2871 instead oh HKS. Next grapghn 466.6whp is same as above, but HKS 2835 Pro S with the larger .87ar turbine housing, the special HKS Pro S dump pipe into a HPI split dual 2.5" front pipe and the rest stayed as is. Red line is after I welded the actuator brackets. (It was originally bolted together and was moving a couple millimetres under load). Green line is obviously before I welded the bracket, no other changes. 100whp gain at 3750rpm, massive gain for such a simple fix. Third graph is my current setup, huge changes. 469.7whp R31house twin scroll manifold, twin TiAl 38mm gates, Forced Performance (USA) HTA3076 with 1.01ar twin scroll rear housing, Link Fury+ and loom by 12volt, PRP trigger kit and r35 coil kit with r35 splitfire coils, HKS step 1 vct staggered cams, new oem lifters and performance springs, 49mm itb's w/port matched Nismo plenum, twin walbro 460 surge tank setup + 1650cc injectors, HKS Type R S13 600x300x103mm fmic, individual egt's, 4" turbo back with no resonators or cat and AES true straight through muffler + 4" butterfly off the dump pipe lower 90° bend. It's a preliminary tune with no boost control with using 20psi gate springs and 4" butterfly closed. Once body loom and PDM is compete, will go for 30psi tune.
    • joshuaho96
      Shifting questions

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Power light apparently functions as a transmission error light, you can try the power sequence to read any codes from the transmission control unit.  
    • MrStabby
      R32 GTR front coilover bottom mount - flared side in or out

      By MrStabby · Posted

      Agreed - looks better that way
×
×
  • Create New...