Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guy's,

My current turbo has some smoking problems, so I am after a T28bb off the RB20 S2 (T3 flange).

Must be the bb version, have no major shaft play, oil issues or chips in the wheels.

Or even if some one has a good t28bb core that i could buy?.

If not,

I was thinking of maybe upgrading to the RB25 turbo (depending on price), the only issue is that my 1.3ltr swift will suffer from lag, tho the extra power would be ok.

Any ides on how much bigger the R33 turbo is?.

Thanks

Andy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55296-wtb-rb20det-s2-turbo/
Share on other sites

for your information bud, there is only one T28 turbo that was ever produced and that came on a nissan pulsar GTIR, the other T28/T3 style turbo's come off SR series motors like SR20's, the turbo that you seem to need is one off any RB series motor. thats why your looking for the t3 style exhaust flange.

So there is only one t28 ever produced & it was on the "gtir"?.

"the other T28/T3 style turbo's come off SR series motors like SR20's"

I don't think that the SR20's use T3 flange, hence the post wanting a turbo from an RB...?

"the turbo that you seem to need is one off any RB series motor. thats why your looking for the t3 style exhaust flange"

The turbo that i have is from a late model R32, that is a T28bb, same as the R33 (but with different smaller rear exhaust housing, both T3 flange!) & yes the T3 is what i have asked for?.

I have checked Turbo's from 89 R32's & the core is different, they are non bb, the later model r32's have an extra bolt in the core & is a good give away that there is a difference also the the core size its self is different...

Please tell me if i am wrong.......

I'm not a guru just trying to pass on some info so that we may all grow and prosper.

I have some docs that you can read to help you get your head around what came off what. at the same time bear in mind that everything you read is not the gospel so if you ask some one who has been in the industry or better worked with some one with years of experience then they will tell you what i have blerted out.

"T28/t3 style" is different from "T28 front and t3 flange" have a read and see what you come up with. as with this extra bolt, I'm not sure youll have to send me a pic of it

here in my gallery ---> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/photopost...500/ppuser/9238

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...