Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry Sydneykid for the late reply, as you asked i have been gathering infomation to back up my claim. From what i understand you work for a race car team, use motec in your race cars and are very knowlagable in you area. I am prepared for your critcism and happy to reply, as you keep the thread positive. unlike like the other dicks here.

The wolf is a better computer because

1. Price, compared to the motec of simliair features the motec would cost over $7000

2. Idle speed control

3. it is a true plug and play

4. from exprience the fuel delivery

5. does not need CDI modules to run the coils properly.

6. the wolf has 2048map points, motec 1048

my car is for real, sydneykid hope this is enough.

tristan

Hi Tristan, thanks for the post, responses follow;

1. My recollection of your quote was that the Wolf was the "best", I did not read anything about value for money. Obviously $7K is a grosslly inflated price, we have 4 Motecs with everything and the price never gets anywhere that for the ECU. We do have dashboards that cost that much, but that's a whole different ball game as the PI System 4 (the Motec equivalent) cost $17K.

2. I am sorry but I'm not sure what you mean by this, the M600 (for example) has pulse width modulated, stepper motor and fly by wire idle control capability. It has programable idle control for air con, cold start and run, power steering and electrical load compensation. It also has 14 programable outputs and 14 programable inputs, so you can do idle control and compensation for anything you like really.

3. I have had this discussion before with Steve, it is not "plug and play", you have to plumb the MAP sensor for a start.

4. We can argue back and forwards about which method of firing injectors is better than the other. The fact is that Motec (Autonic and Power FC amongst others) use the full sequential control, which is what every top level Motorsport team and the car manufacturers use. Whether it is LeMans, F1, V8Supercars, WRC cars or fuel ecomony record holders. They all get better performance and fuel economy out of that methodology.

5. I have never had a problem getting a Motec to run the standard coils. We have one car with the Motec CDI and Mercury outboard coils, but you have some way to go in the horsepower chase to get halfway to where that car is.

6. I have already responded to Steve's PM'd claims of more load points. It really depends on how you count them and what you count. The M600 we use has 2,600 load points for injection. This is what I told Steve, I was going to leave it at a PM exchange, because we could argue for days on this point alone and get nowhere. But you have opened it up for all, if I don't respond I will get 30 more PM's asking for the data anyway, so......

Main Table - 40 X 21 = 840

Individual cylinder tables - 20 X 11 X 6 = 1,320

Sub Total = 2,160

Then I could add the secondary injector tables

End Primary - 20 X 11 = 220

Start Secondary - 20 X 11 = 220

Total = 2,600

I am not sure where to take this from here, I could come back with 20 plus things the Wolf is deficient in compared to the Motec, without even even testing my brain. But what will it proove?

You guys are getting good results, so keep up the good work.:)

  • Replies 237
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thank you syndeykid, i am currently getting 16/17.4 L/100km

Fuel pressure is 30psi and rises to 50psi under full boost.

what tyres and suspension setup will you be running? Nismo coilovers, (track spec) at this stage 225/50/16 RE55ES, when i become good enough that traction is an issue some DOT drag tyres

Wolf ECUs are cheap, get good results in drivability and power and have also passed emission tests in the many kit cars we do plus they are very adaptable very well garranted and reliable and updateable can run mAP or MAF and can run huge power without CDI or expencive coils and used by most of the fastest Skylines in WA and owners like Tristan like them and send their mates to get them and we sell $200000 worth year after year and even AEM strugle to keep supply up to us so wheres the problem?Not over here so best the knockers get over themselves but as they are just keyboarders they really cant do anything but sit and bag.Grow up!

Yadda Yadda Yadda...

I am amazed at your reasoning to justify things. Going by the units sold, I wonder where would (insert brand here) sit on the comparison...?

Wolf is Cheap - Check

Good results in drivability and power - Check

Adaptable and guaranteed - Check

Can run MAP or MAF - Check

Huge power without CDI or coils - Check

Used by most of the fastest skylines in WA - Check

Owners like Tristian like them and get their mates to get one - Check

You sell over $20000 worth each year - Check

AEM struggle to keep you supply - Check

WOW... That makes Wolf a very good ECU than don't it...? :confused:

For the record, noone is knocking Wolf here. That would be because, most of us don't know much about them to make a comment.

How about you tell us what really sets Wolf apart from the rest, or if it lacks any features by outside chance.

my 20c still believe the APEXI pfc dollar for dollar is the best plug and play on the market running car from std cars to cars like the 8 sec apexi drag car not bad versatity if you ask me ,the only complain i have heard peolpe speak of is the use of afms ,which they now do a unit which nolong requires them but it took me all of two hours to built and fit suitable afms and piping and ecu and hand control i landed for $1330 and took a 2 hour tune on the dyno, I'm currently running 500hp at the wheels on adrenlines dyno (600hp+ at PAS at a guess lol) so i find it hard to look pass such an option.

yeah most likely but rubber is my main problem (traction) anyone one at drag wars can tell you that and the clip is on the antilag web site .You can hear all 4 gear changes by the tyre slip squieling and plus it was my second time to a drag trip of any type, but it will be back some where down the road depending on work to see wot a bit of traction could do for me.

I not shore whos jades is ,is that got boost the rb26 r32 gts on slicks(only a question)

yeah most likely but rubber is my main problem (traction) anyone one at drag wars can tell you that and the clip is on the antilag web site .You can hear all 4 gear changes by the tyre slip squieling and plus it was my second time to a drag trip of any type, but it will be back some where down the road depending on work to see wot a bit of traction could do for me.

I not shore whos jades is ,is that got boost the rb26 r32 gts on slicks(only a question)

Jade has the blue 33GTR with tripspoke white rims (last time i saw it).. was at Drag Combat earlier this year but not the recent Drag Wars

ok cool i saw it at drag combat

but obvisously(or not) there must be a difference between running a 11.1 like jades 430hp and running a 10.74 like anthony 680hp or you would think it wouldnt take so much more hp to get a high ten.

so i think mph is a good indication hp and eta an indication of setup and driver ?

or am i wrong (only a question)

i just dont understand why people spend $500-800 on a good exhaust and dont even blink but then can't part with th money when it comes to something like coils or injectors???

So what if it does the power on stock injectors, why would you want to, ther are cheap in relevance to everything else you have modified to get to that power level??? Let me get this right,

turbo and associated piping- $2000

ECU and Install- $2500

Intercooler, exhaust, cams, cam gears and other assciated good- $2000

Expecting your engine to last at high power levels with piss poor 370cc injectors,

PRICELESS.

There are some things money can't buy, but injectors shouldnt be one of them...

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...