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Mate has taken out the mesh on both sides of his Z32 sensor & actually dynoed it! And guess what it made more power with the mesh removed, plus he actually flow bench tested with & without the mesh & picked up a bit from removing it! he actually went a step further & got some epoxy ribbon & made the plastic section where the wire is inside smoother & also flowbenched this which again improved flow & hp on the dyno! This car has really good A/F ratios now without a modified ecu other than the speed limit removed & made approx 209rwkw ( not on shootout mode either !)& ran 12.592@182kph! This is not BS you can check the time on http://www.drivelinechatter.com/dragladder_list.asp to verify! obviously it has other mods but mods to sensor seemed to help his a/f ratios

sends mixed messages to the ecu

i doubt removing both of the grills would send mixed messages. there is only one input - the AFM - to tell how much air enters the engine. this is measured after the first grill - and only measures how much air hits it to cool the wire

Originally posted by rev210

from the look of the mesh there may be as much as 3-4kw@motor in the top end by removing both. More if you have a higher output engine than stock (ie: big turbo)

What is all the talk about *both* or *two* pieces of mesh?

Mine only had *one* on the airbox side, which is gone now...

Maybe its just one of the differences in the models ~ 33 > 34?

Originally posted by rev210

the mesh is there to stop knuckle heads from poking screwdrivers into the hot wire. It is a restriction and you will increase airflow/hp by removing it.

It is not designed to 'smooth airflow' it is just cheap-ass(uneven and poorly constructed) mesh.

Do yourself a favour after checking your head for knuckles.

That is a classic ~ very funny!

Hope I'm not interupting, but I was told 2day by BD4's that the k&n, unifilters and others along the same line use oil in the sponge and that it could damage the engine if the oil leaks.....they recommeded HKS air filters ....as it used steel mesh rather than sponging with oil.

Is this true?

Apologies for goin off the topic.

I would imagine that the oil from these "filters" is no worse [or better] than the crankcase return which goes through the turbo anyway...

unless of course you have an oil separator / catch tank.

hotino and others, although the link below has already posted in a different thread. It is a very interesting short read about some brands of air filters, their effectiveness, and how their manufacturer can promote misleading information.

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_t...st/2/index.html

edit: It might shed some light on some misconceptions going around as to which type of filter is best for your car and your AFM.

Guest TTZ32
Originally posted by giz01

Mate has taken out the mesh on both sides of his Z32 sensor & actually dynoed it! And guess what it made more power with the mesh removed, plus he actually flow bench tested with & without the mesh & picked up a bit from removing it! he actually went a step further & got some epoxy ribbon & made the plastic section where the wire is inside smoother & also flowbenched this which again improved flow & hp on the dyno! This car has really good A/F ratios now without a modified ecu other than the speed limit removed & made approx 209rwkw ( not on shootout mode either !)& ran 12.592@182kph! This is not BS you can check the time on http://www.drivelinechatter.com/dragladder_list.asp to verify! obviously it has other mods but mods to sensor seemed to help his a/f ratios

Definitely a worthwhile mod, from memory(been a while since I did it) removing the screens from the AFM increased the flow around 120CFM @ 10" water, it improved the flow by around 25%. I did it to improve spoolup more than anything, but it gave a gain in HP also.

It's all the little things that add up to a large gain, and the cheaper the better.

I don't think there is any advantage to an oil filter.

Hmm, well i cleaned my AFM.. made sweet f.a. difference so either it was clean or it didn't matter.

Found out that both screens on mine had already been removed... there was a tiny bit of dust lining in there, not that great, but probably just proves how crap most pod filters are at actually filtering air.

Guest TTZ32

The hot-wire element is actually self cleaning. After the engine is switched off, the ECU heats the element red hot for a second or so to burn off any crap.

But they still seem to get a build up of snot on them over time.

For interests sake, I've been cleaning mine occasionally over the last 4 years, using carb cleaner, no particular brand, and haven't had any problems. The first time i cleaned it, I used carb cleaner and a toothbrush to scrub it. The element is very robust and unlikely to be damaged easily.

I can't recall EVER hearing of a Nissan hot-wire falling apart.

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