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Thanks for the tip Davo (ok to call you davo?).

When my sparky and I reconnected the dodgey loom that burst into flames I soldered it all up nicely, taped it and loomed it nicely so I wouldn't think that it's gone astray but that is VERY interesting you should say that. I will definately be checking this as it is a possibility the wire was "hurt" further down the line towards the computer where we didn't notice.

Is it okay just to put 12v onto the pump terminals?

The injectors going click-click happens on ON. If I turn it to START it does turn over.

I'm not sure if this is meaningful but when I have the car on ON the red light on the SR20 computer is on - I would assume that's normal but maybe it is not.

I had to have dinner after work last night so didn't get home till late. I will try to get home early today and see if I'm getting any current to the fuel pump.

Davo if the computer is functioning properly does the fuel pump receive current all the time and the voltage rises/drops to regulate fuel flow? Or is it always on? Or is the current only present if/when it's sending fuel (ie when you hear the whine just before you start your car if you have an aftermarket fuel pump).

I guess what I'm trying to find out is if I find that there is current feeding to the fuel pump when the car is in the ON key position - should I be expecting it- all the time when car is on, only when I turn it to ON the first 2 seconds (when it winds fuel up to the engine), or some other times?

I'm assuming the 4 wires on the fuel pump are +/- for the actual feed from the battery and +/- for the activation wire that would flick a relay?

I'll try to do it tonight and see how I go - are the symptoms I described characteristic of a fuel pump seizing up?

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the fuel pump should always be getting ~12v when ignition is set to ON. The fuel pressure regulator regulates fuel pressure, not the ecu. HTH.

What happend with the fire? I must have missed that story...

Richard

Ahh thanks mgtir - I will be checking for constant 12v.

The short version is a couple of weeks ago I was driving around when the engine conked. I looked under the bonnet to see my good fuse (ie proper car fuse) was melted. I thought ohoh that's not good I'd better move the car so I put in the fuse that was in there when I bought the car.

Little known to me at the time the place where the sr20/rb20 looms were spliced (in the engine, dodgily) was shorting out onto the chassis. The fuse actually melted onto itself to short out even further and voila .. electrical fire courtesy of dodgy wiring.

For some reason both my fire extinguishers didn't work (do not buy supercheap autos fire extinguishers) - luckily i managed to rip out my entire fuse box and the fire abated itself. I then re-wired that stuff.... I still had a melted ignition so I re-wired that too (as linked in a url at the beginning of this post).

And since then the car has worked reasonably ok and the longest without incident since I've had it....

Yes Godfather that's right.

Ok. I checked it out today. When I passed my test light over all the fuses they were all ok.

I then turned the car to ON so I could see if there was current going to the fuel pump - I noticed as I turned it over to ON the fuel pump came on as normal!! What THE?!

As I let the car run for 15 seconds or so (it ran like shit) I noticed a ****load of smoke coming from the turbo side of the engine... so I turned it off.

Scared to turn it back on - gonna wait till too_much comes round to have a look at it tomorz.

I'm ****ing over this.

does meggala live near you? I think it would be good of him if he came round and gave you a hand providing everyone got on ok.

Up to both parties involved tho. Im a whizz on mechanical, but anything other than basic relay wiring gets me stumped so im not much help. Check the ecu wires though as this sounds something like what i had with my laurel. We found the ecu wires were all twisted together, after soldering them she went like a charm.

cheers

Jayson

I have being called Davo, but i'll live.

There are 2 separate wires coming from the ecu, one is the fuel pump relay trigger, the other is the fuel pump speed control. The Trigger would be the one that would cause the issue, but that seems to be in the past now.

Your main loom will be running up the chassis beside the turbo, if that has started smoking it's pointing towards a short in the wiring (again)

Thanks Dave(.) - story so far is..

too_much came to check it out today (god bless christian soldiers) and it was infact the turbo having pretty much fallen off the manifold so theres a huge gap in there and the exhaust gas is escaping!

Apparently the smokiness is normal (car being cold etc)- so ... anyone around the beaches or north shore wanna help me/teach me to take my manifold off if I get an aftermarket one and a gasket? (all i can afford atm is a case of beer and the manifold hehe)

I can see my car being off the road for a bit - I'm not really game taking out my manifold incase I get stuck somewhere :cheers:

I removed the turbo and manifold to replace the gaskets on my wifes R32 last week (i realise you have SR20) but in all honesty is is very simple.......be sure to purchase some high temp gasket sealant and to buy only the GENUINE nissan gaskets, the aftermarket items are crap quality in comparison.

I would suggest drop the turbo from the manifold, that will give you enough room to remove the manifold......doubt you will be able to do it with turbo still attached.

Good luck with it mate, unfortunately i am a bit far away to be of any real help.

The easiest way to pull a turbo off an SR is to take the turbo and manifold in one go. Its not that hard to do. There is nowhere near as much room as an RB has around the turbo.

I have never used gasket sealant myself, and never had a leak. I agree with using factory gaskets.

I told CC that it isn't a big job, but he is a big girl

As with most private sale cars, they are sold as is, where is. And unless the previous and current owner had some of written contract stating a warranty, or replacement of something that was broken, there is really nothing legally the pervious owner has to do.

As the pervious owner is in another state, I’m assuming this car was sold with out a RWC as well? If not, and you did happen to get one, take it out with the road worthy place, as it falls back onto them.

Shame about what’s happened though. Was such an awesome car.

I understand that the previous owner has no legal responsibility and is too far away, its just that cefiros are rare and i would like to think that this community is fairly close and the seller might have some sort of moral responsibility.

I mean, if i sold a lemon to a fellow forum member, i would help as much i possibly could.

In this case he may be helping as much as could. Im just curious.

BTW. I am not necessarily saying your cefiro is a lemon, might just be bad luck.

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