Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone explain how the "on-demand" turbo boost works then?

Coz on our cars boost is driven by RPM.

no, not really, actually the wastegate controls boost on ths stock system.

And then of course many add an electronic boost controller that bleeds some of the boost the wastegate sees increasing boost again.

I would guess it is just some sort of electronic bleeder than increases the boost temporarily.

great feature for a race car tho, it really adds some strategy

Yeh it adds boost, but also changes the fuel and ignition maps so the car makes more power but suffers worse fuel economy:(

Yeh the Grp A days and turbos were great, but they never ran those sorts of boost levels for a race, two laps qualifying yes, but Pikes Peak Cars etc do it for the whole climb at high altitudes:) All impressive though:cheers:

I remember jim richards and the other guy who used to race the bluebird group A years ago getting interviewed on rpm on channel 10. They were talking about the tricks they used to use for qualifing like running stupid amounts of boost and using things like fire extinguishers on the intercooler when on boost to keep the intake air temps down, as there wasent such strict rules those days.

The turbos used to be scraped tho after running more than 2 bar boost boost rather quick even just for a few qualifying laps.

I remember jim richards and the other guy who used to race the bluebird group A years ago getting interviewed on rpm on channel 10. They were talking about the tricks they used to use for qualifing like running stupid amounts of boost and using things like fire extinguishers on the intercooler when on boost to keep the intake air temps down, as there wasent such strict rules those days.

The turbos used to be scraped tho after running more than 2 bar boost boost rather quick even just for a few qualifying laps.

Zoom magazine No 55 has an article on the Bluebird and mentions

"in race trim around 1.6bar (23.5psi) of boost, which is pretty good considering it's 19 years old. As for the qualifying set-up, I'll let Fred Gibson explain:"We just wound up as far as it (the wastegate)would go. It would probably be a bit under 3bar (44psi) and would be pumping out over 400hp (298kW+). It was good for one lap, then the turbo was junk." "

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My plan is to go the pink option. But still add the 4th fitting near the oil cap and just cap it off for now.  That way I can add 2 extra to the sump and have 4 dedicated breathers/drains if I ever remove the sump for any reason. 
    • Oh, yeah, look - here's the thing. You always replace the tensioner when you're going in there to replace a belt....under normal circumstances. You want to make sure it is good and safe, and that you don't create a reason to take the front of the bloody motor apart again. But in this case, OP is replacing a belt that has aged out on time, not usage. The belt is a million miles away from aging out on usage. The belt gets a time "limit" merely because it is made of rubber and can degrade naturally. The tensioner? Not so much. I reckon it could last forever on the current usage pattern. So I reckon if the thing is going to continue to get used at the same rate, replacing the tensioner is somewhat gratuitous. Would I replace it if I was doing it on my car right now? Hell yes. Because my car does 10-20 thousand kays a year. So it's all going to be the same thrashedness. Would I YOLO it on OP's car. More than likely.
    • I dunno. I think any one of those from each side to sump is probably enough. Remember - this is about creating a path for gas flow up from the sump to the cam covers. That gas flow then has to leave via the lines to the catch can. There's probably little point in providing 100% more capacity from sump up to covers cf. what you have from there to the catch can. Put in the 3 convenient ones? Any which way that you see fit. That'd be my thoughts.
    • Getting holes drilled into to cam covers and AN10 fitting welded on. My sump has 2x AN10 fittings on it already. These are the options I have come up with that can be done without needing to remove the sump to add more fittings. In all options front of passenger side cover connects to VCT head drain bung (i know this isn't the best spot but my feeling is it must do something). Option 1 (pink). The back of each cam covers gets its own line to sump. Option 2 (blue). The back of each cam covers are linked and share a line to sump. The front of drivers side gets its own line. Option 3 (Black). Drivers side are Tee'd together and share a line to the sump. Passenger side rear gets its one line to the sump.
    • I'd be surprised if Nissan doesn't mention it in the manual as it seems unlikely that a tensioner is going to last 200,000km.
×
×
  • Create New...