Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 year later...
  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I thought I would bump this for the new guys who maybe haven't considered the Bass Junky air deflector and ambient air intake scoop combo. It is definitely a worthwhile mod.

:( cheers :(

Hey Hey.

Thanks SK.

I"m actually about to proceed with another group buy at the moment.

Anyone who is interested should let me know in the thread in my Sig.

I'll need to know by the end of the week.

Probably close the group buy on Tuesday.

Cheers

Pete

post-6399-1175088444.jpg

post-6399-1175088465.jpg

post-6399-1175088491.jpg

post-6399-1175088511.jpg

Hey Hey.

Thanks SK.

I"m actually about to proceed with another group buy at the moment.

Anyone who is interested should let me know in the thread in my Sig.

I'll need to know by the end of the week.

Probably close the group buy on Tuesday.

Cheers

Pete

Interest also posted, F@#K nose where, hopeyagotit. :laugh:

I should mention I had to modify mine when I got it due to a few extra pieces and also not having the standard Grill. I'll post a pic of it in case other people have similar issue and the design might need to be modified for them. Still, a really good buy, mine looks awesome.

hey guys please enlighten me, maybe iv'e had to many beers, iv'e looked at this thread on & off for ages now thinkin great idea ...what am i misssing, help me out, when you close your bonnet does it not seal down on your radiator bar blocking any air intake???? creating a scoop under bar is still going to be blocked by the ribbing under the bonnet is'nt it. to allow air would'nt you have to cut that part of your bonnet that seals down directely in front of your scoop.....am i loosin it or what

^ nope not losing it,

ribbing nearly blocks all the air flow on my S2

Without one of these air passes through the front bar and grill, hits the radiator and can bounce up and over the radiator into the engine bay. The Guide stops this bouncing and blocks off that easy passage for the air, in theory this ensures more air passes through the radiator rather than diverting around it.

I am sure someone else can add to this explanation.

Luke

  • 7 months later...
Without one of these air passes through the front bar and grill, hits the radiator and can bounce up and over the radiator into the engine bay. The Guide stops this bouncing and blocks off that easy passage for the air, in theory this ensures more air passes through the radiator rather than diverting around it.

I am sure someone else can add to this explanation.

Luke

some fantastic work here guys.... :D

would removing a portion of the bonnet rib ,help with the amount of cold air gettin in to the airbox.

i was toying with the idea of making a duct straight into the air box into the grill area..?

I should mention I had to modify mine when I got it due to a few extra pieces and also not having the standard Grill. I'll post a pic of it in case other people have similar issue and the design might need to be modified for them. Still, a really good buy, mine looks awesome.

I had to mod mine as I have Rob's grille. Easy though.

ive been working on a duct through to the grill, :(

its coming on real well i think you guys are gonna be quite surprised at the end results,

im taking pics and should be finished by the weekend

not trying to rain on ur parade but turbos are different to naturally aspirated cars, once air passes through the turbo it gets really hot so u are relying on your intercooler to cool your air., so any gains made buy slightly cooler air to the air box are lost through the turbo. buy your last pics coolness where u live doesent seem to be an issue :w00t: . have u considered a pod filter, there a bit noisy but if u like induction noise there a good mod

not trying to rain on ur parade but turbos are different to naturally aspirated cars, once air passes through the turbo it gets really hot so u are relying on your intercooler to cool your air., so any gains made buy slightly cooler air to the air box are lost through the turbo. buy your last pics coolness where u live doesent seem to be an issue :) . have u considered a pod filter, there a bit noisy but if u like induction noise there a good mod

yep i understand that, but surely the cooler the air the less work the intercooler has to do.?

and the colder the charge that reaches engine,

my idea only copies the original air intake idea,but avoids pulling in air from above the hot rad, a pod filter in a hot engine bay may sound great, but its a lot less effective than my "..induction tunnel" lol,

this could have been done from the start with a small amount of effort, but i suppose there are millions of things to consider when building acar......and what we have to do if it was all perfect,heres my pics ;

remove front of scoop, make card templates,

DSCF0004.jpgDSCF0006.jpg

bend ali base, and lid,

DSCF0013.jpg

remove part of bonnet rib, i cut and bent bits back and then added some rubbertrim,and laquered all around it to prevent rusting

DSCF0008.jpg

view up "tunnel" with out lid.

DSCF0012.jpg

nearly complete i will cover the ali with some carbon fibre sticky plastic later , ive also painted the grill satin black too

DSCF0954.jpg

this gives a 5" x 2 1/2" tunnel through the bonnet edge and into the air filter box pipe :ph34r:

DSCF0953.jpg

im fitting a new hi flow panel filter too

Edited by art burgess
ive been working on a duct through to the grill, :w00t:

its coming on real well i think you guys are gonna be quite surprised at the end results,

im taking pics and should be finished by the weekend

Yep surprised alright!! :P

I hope that was your spare bonnet....!

I can think of many easier ways to gain a few more kw's without hacking holes in your car.... each to their own I guess.... :ermm:

not bad but if u really wanted to cool your air the best option is to rig up a spray on the intercooler. i think that if u mix mentholated spirits and water it has a better cooling effect. i spotted a boost controller that had an output that could be adjusted to send a voltage to a sprayer at desired boost. could be your next project art :P

link http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Electronic-Boost-Co...1QQcmdZViewItem

Edited by jippa

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.
    • Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.
    • What makes it worse is that Nissan made keys in the same style, for example R34 and Stagea, but they work at different frequencies or something like that. So they look the same but the remotes are not interchangeable. I learned that from some guy selling aftermarket blank keys.
    • Does your door chime work when you have the key in the lock and open the door? I've had that disabled because it's f**king annoying and it is one thing that messes with the pairing. Because now the car doesn't detect key in ignition anymore and the slide-key-in-and-out sequence does not trigger the pairing mode anymore. The service manual has a section on the various bits involved in doing the syncing. I presume it'll be similar between Stagea and R34.
    • Agree, but meh, I think is is based more on LOLS than actually apples to apples, like, who would have thunk a turbo 4 cylinder would not beat a NA 4 cylinder  I think with just basic N/A mods, like a exhaust and tune, it would be equal to the Mini in its current form, maybe I know my current 2.5 would "chop the mini" as the midrange now has a night and day difference in power delivery compared to the tuned 2.0, by around 20kwatw and 30nm from around 2k rpm "ish"....... I'm kinda hoping that they do a N/A build, either with the MZR 2.0 or with whatever they decide to use If I recall correctly they did talk about K swapping one a while ago
×
×
  • Create New...