Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't remember N E thing on mine. If it doesn't dim the dash lights, does it switch on or off, or come back to the same position. Maybe if you hold it in to adjust and let it out at the setting you want. Other than that I would like to know the answer also.

damn it mine doesn't have this, but the car that we have here right now has it. it supposedly drops the light intensity down as you get closer to the car in front or something similar. This is third hand info, so don't take it as gospel. I have looked briefly but can not find any unusual sensor to reduce the voltage to the lights and dimm them.

The switch is an on or off one, does not adjust the interior lights but the head lights I'm told. I have two Stageas here right now, mine RS4 1996, and a white RS4 97. 97 has the option along with the luggage fan, mine does not have eithor of those options. Will try to search for differences again out the dront of the cars today. there must be a sensor for it there somewhere.

We should make this the official 'what the hell is that' thread for Stagea's :)

I've got a switch on the right hand side of the steering wheel that looks like a demist switch but isn't cause the demist switch is on the lefthand side.

I'll post a pic of it up later, but it's a momentary switch with a little orange light in it that lights up when pressed. The symbol on the switch 'looks' like a symbol for warming up a water tank or defrosting the wiper blades on the windscreen. hard to discribe.....

Cause it's a momentay switch, I'd say it automatically turns itself off after a set time but I'm yet to test it.

J

If you leave the light reduce switch on, the headlights will dim whenever you come to a complete stop. Freaked me out the first time I drove home at night and was waiting for the turbos to cool down.:uhh:

Huzzah - an answer!!!

I've looked throught the parts data & noticed that the cct for this switch has a relay & wiring to each main light assembly but I'd be buggered if I could see anything happening. Time to turn it on & (hopefully!) see some results.

The switch on the RHS of the column on the dash is a wiper de-icer. It heats the lower part of the front & rear screens to prevent you tearing the wiper rubbers off when the window is iced up. It has a 15-minute timer built in (as does the demister).

Next question please!

:)

FRom looking at the wiring associated with the dimming mechanism it does not appear to be part of the factory loom. Is it possible that this is an additional component available aftermarket in Japan, specifically for the car in question? I only say this as the loom addition is covered in Conduit, and loom taped up differently. No additional misc wiring is included in these bits of additional loom, so there would be no reason for them to have been de-loomed and then re-done again.

Seems odd. Two small silver boxes (one behind each headlight) are responsible for dimming the voltage to the lights in relation to the car slowing down by the looks of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...