R32 (auto) dyno results

[WazR32GTSt]

Had my car on the dyno the other day to check the AFRs and optimise my setup before I take it to calder

Dyno was done at MI automotive in Bulleen by Arthur Hatziallis who knows his stuff and has great experience with dyno’s and is a tuning agent for unichip and microtech.

My current mods:

- 3” dump/front

- 3” cat-back

- 2.5” cat

- high-flow filter in stock airbox with CAI

- FMIC with custom piping

- rb26 cams

- chipped ECU (don’t know exactly what, if anything, has been changed)

- bleed valve

Car particulars:

- R32 GTSt

- rb20det with 125,000kms

- stock automatic 4sp gearbox (with transmission cooler)

The initial dyno run was done with my CAS set right to retard as this was the only way for it not to ping! car seemed to run ok like this although power was down. The reason for this (after inspection) was because my timing belt was out by one tooth on the exhaust side! The result i initially got is shown in the below dyno graph with a max of 115.8kW@wheels on 10.5psi

I had the timing belt fixed and back on the dyno to fix up the timing, and add some more boost. With the timing set to around 15deg and boost to 12psi, i made a max of 131.6kW@wheels (interestingly made no more power at 14psi than at 12psi). This is shown in the below graph also. Torque seems to be ok at approx 255nm

The AFRs show that it is running rich, but at least the AFRs are constant and the torque curve is relatively flat

Car also has a slight miss at idle but I don’t think that has affected the dyno curve at all

All runs done in 2nd gear (auto, remember)

So to my questions…

Now, I have done some searching of the archives and there is absolutely no info on R32 automatic dyno figures.

So... is 132kW@wheels and OK figure given its an auto? My tuner said it would be closer to 155kW if it were a manual based on the figure, the results he has seen from manual-equipped cars with similar mods, and a calculation the computer did

Sydneykid posted in a thread that a stock auto R33GTS25T makes approx 110kW@wheels so that lead me to think that I am doing pretty well.

Also, the dyno parameters down the bottom show an intake temp of 14deg which does not seem likely, would this have affected the runs by much? Most dyno graphs I see have intake temps of around 30-40deg…

Any comments are greatly appreciated.

Please post your figures if you have an AUTO, particularly R32’s…

Cheers,

Warren.

[WazR32GTSt]

oh, and what do you think this set-up would run down the quarter?

[Abo Bob]

Get rid of that cat and put a bigger one in for a start.

[WazR32GTSt]

yeah i know...

although it has been 'high flowed' by my dad and i (if you know what i mean)

[BHDave]

I think hpi wrote that the Auto box was costing about 20rwkw about 18months back so around 155 would be about right which isn't bad at all. I'd be interested to know what was done on the chip because all i found when making 165 was that my a/f ratio got down to about 11.8:1

You've also found that the stock turbo isn't going to make much more power with more than 12psi which is a good thing, so now you wont stuff in 14psi and shorten the turbo life. I found that running more boost ramped up the power quicker but peak power was barely affected. It also tended to ping coming onto boost.

[WazR32GTSt]

chip was reccommended to me by 'deorbit' from these forums

he had it in his car making 160rwkw with similar mods, and i got the same chip for $200 from a place down here in melb

maybe he can shed some more light on its mapping?

[knore]

Yeh certain car models the automatic robs the car of power, but not in the newer skyline series

ive made 180rwkw on 2 different dynos in my auto, with the same mods as manual 33s making 180kw

the loss may be a kw or two if that, but definately not alot

i ran 13.8@102 with a little under 180kw, main problem was not being able to stall enough power at the start. I could only take off at 2200rpm

So u shouldnt do too bad

[RBN1]

hi Warren,

remember this depends on dyno to dyno. On my mechanics own dyno it made 130rwkw before I put on a full 3" exhaust with no CAT (for testing purposes only of course). After that we upped the boost a little and the car was making about 158rwkw in shoot out mode on a different dyno. (this was on a manual not auto).

I was running 13.5psi. Warren, if you want I can source you the before and after dyno graph of my last car when I first got the chip.

btw I also had a slight miss on idle so maybe something to do with idle timing? From what I know the chip increases the boost limiters and leans the mixtures out as well as disabling the 180kph speed limiter and upping the rev limiter (useless if u have a stock turbo). I had a list of the changes somewhere but I have to find them.

[predator]

I'd be interested in the 1/4 time .. that will really show where its at.

I might throw mine on a dyno and the drag strip before I pull the engine out... see what it pulls with the basic zorst, cooler, +boost mods.

I am curious as to how strong (how long it lasts ) the r32 auto is compared to an r33 box as well...

[Cubes]

When my RB20t was running a bleeder boost would drop over ~5500rpm down to around 12.5psi.

By raising boost from 12psi to 15psi I only gained around 3rwkw due to boost dropping back down to 12.5psi. There was lots more mid range though.

Once I had an EBC fitted power went up from around 155rwkw to 164rwkw.

It held 15psi to redline.

I later sold the EBC and modifed the wastegate actuator bracket as so to reduce its travel hence holding boost up top.

You can see the amount of adjustment the bracket has. I use a big arsed flat head screw driver. Loosen off the top bolt a little and jimmy the actuator away from the turbo, this reduces the actuator arm travel as it can't open the wastegate flap open as much. I tighten up the bolt and take it for a spin.

Be carefull with the right foot and wait for that fuel cut, then back it off a little.

Its probably best to do it on a dyno to make sure your afr's don't start to lean out + boost build can be more controlled.

It took a couple of fuel cut hits to get it right I ended up running 16psi all the way to redline for around 2 years until now where the turbo has gone on to the rb30det for its run in.

I was running quite a bit of ignition timing (shade over 20degree's) but also had a 3" straight through exhaust from the turbo back.

Yours is also running very rich. It looks to me as if its running in to the 10's.

I also had my fuel pressure fiddled with a little to help lean it closer to the 12:1 AFR. This was as simple as fitting a check valve and a boost bleeder inline to the front fuel pressure regulator. Then on the dyno adjust it.

Only problem was it still had to run fairly rich as if I leaned out fuel pressure then the mid range would lean out. So I found the happy medium which was in the mid-low 11's.

It used to haul arse and had no problems nudging in front of 280kw Stock Auto Senators, stock 255 6speed Maloo's & one VX LS1 6speed with an Exhaust. I could run a consistant 0-100km/h in low 5secs, Every gear to just over 7000rpm. Shift earlier and the car was not as quick.

The trick is to get it to hold boost and it will want to rev past 7000rpm no problems.

I was always popping the bonnet on the side of the road fiddling with the car to get it going just that little bit harder.

In third up against guard rails listening for detonation... lol.

[Angry]

interesting results waz .. getting the mixtures right has done wonders. at least gives me an idea how the GTR cams go as well. thanks

i'm made 116 on my last dyno ..selectmaz and is running super rich .. hopefully a temp fix of a SAFC will get my AFRs right ..i neva got my sheet from selectmaz so idunno where it was at on the day.

i'm investin in new leads and plugs and possibly Eboost unit (EBC) along side the RB25 turbo i have to put on with my cooler.. and probably a screamer pipe too .. hopefully i'll see some good numbers next dyno day.

Matt

[nedb]

WazR32GTSt - the timing on the Automatic RB20 should be 20 degres. I got that from the R32 engine manual.

My automatic R32 made 137 rwkw with slight missfire and A/F ratio of 13. The only mods are pod filter, 3" exhaust and R33 turbo and it hasn't been tuned.

[WazR32GTSt]

WazR32GTSt - the timing on the Automatic RB20 should be 20 degres. I got that from the R32 engine manual.

My automatic R32 made 137 rwkw with slight missfire and A/F ratio of 13. The only mods are pod filter, 3" exhaust and R33 turbo and it hasn't been tuned.

AFR of 13 is very lean...

and the rb25 turbo would be helping you there also

so that does sound about right... what torque were you making?

[Mr GTS4]

mine was auto, does that count lol.. i have a rb20det in my gts4 thats done 191,000k's with pod + CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, apexi bov, 13psi on stock turbo stock cooler, 500hp fel pump. it made 136rwkw on a 40degree day with the a/f ratio in the 9's. not cool..

recently i have disconected the stock return pipe from the bov and the car seems to go ALOT harder. also the timing is set at standard ( i think ).

[WazR32GTSt]

does anyone have any idea why i might be running so rich even though it has been chipped which is suppost to lean out the mixtures?

maybe its because of the missfire??

[Mr GTS4]

its a nissan! haha. if you want to look to see if your ecu has been chipped open it up and the chip should have some sort of sticker on it.

with the misfire - check plugs, coil packs, vacum leak something along those lines

[nedb]

WazR32GTSt - yeah 13 is very lean. Thats why i've been very careful with the right foot. I've just finished sorting out the fuel system and i'm going back to check the A/F ratios.

I'm not sure about what torgue it was making. The runs were done on 9 psi.

[Cubes]

Its not torque.. Its tractive effort.

[GRUNTN]

stock turbo's only good for 12psi my ass im shoven 15psi in my fact turbo and pulling 165.3kw@w 221hp i think the guy that posted the thread would be running a hi 14

[predator]

but how much more power is it pulling at 15psi rather than 12psi ??

and how long could you push it constantly on a track at flat-chat boost before the exhaust blade separated from the shaft due to excess heat?