Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all

on a budget so which computers are worth it and not?

i have a rb20det with FMIC, 2.5 exhaust...

looking around, these seem to be the best value

E-Manage

Apexi SAFC

jaycar safc (tuning would be a problem though?)

so basically they are all piggy back units..

the apex SAFC would be simpler to tune by your self where as the E-manage needs to be tuned via computer...

any input would be helpful

thanks

Stock Rb20 det computers are tuneable - most reputable shops in Sydney should be able to retune your computer to make better power.

If you ever come to QLD I know a bloke who knows rb20's inside out - has tuned literally hundreds of them.

Can't recommend him enough.

Anything to do with the fueling you wouldn't really want to be tuning by your self.

Fueling really doesn't do a whole lot. Its better than nothing but once you can start fiddling with all the load points, ignition timing & fueling together thats when you get some decent response & average power.

Stock Rb20 det computers are tuneable - most reputable shops in Sydney should be able to retune your computer to make better power.

If you ever come to QLD I know a bloke who knows rb20's inside out - has tuned literally hundreds of them.

Can't recommend him enough.

Who out of interest???

Std computer rechipped is the cheapest option.

We charge around $700 including dyno tune to suit each specific vehicle( not a generic chip).

Factory puter is a very good thing and we have RB20 R31's with 280-300rwhp working great plus SR20's , using a plug in board running 400rwhp.

Cheers

Ken

E-Manage

Apexi SAFC

jaycar safc (tuning would be a problem though?)

i would stay awy from the Jaycar version of the SAFC but thats just me.. i dont know if i would be daring enough to use something like that..

however, out of that list i would go for SAFC.. or as otherrs mentioned earlier, rechip the stock ECU.. i think Toshi on these boards does it for quite cheap but i personally have not tried his

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
×
×
  • Create New...