Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

i am trying to decide what type of intercooler to use on my 1995 R33 GTS-t, what benifits will i get if i use a bar and plate cooler over a tube and fin or vise a versa? is there much gain in using a GTR plenum or something similar to eliminate the tube going over the top of my head?.

Ta

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/55797-intercooler-choice/
Share on other sites

do a search or look in forced induction, recently hot topic. the cost of new plenum is not worth it and you save like .0024psi (or some tiny figure) in pressure drop by using less pipe work which was covered in the recent threads. the new/used plenum is around $1000 you could buy much better stuff for $1000 dorras as theres no other real gains with using front plenum other than less piping as far as i can tell from reading

a gtr front mount is supposed to be well suited for a stock/mild gtst. can be purchased cheaply and will flow good for upto around 300rwkw. however i got a second hand rebuilt dodgy one under my bed which i brought for $350 so they can be had ultra cheaply these days too. i think tube and fine is the one you want which is what the gtr one is, someone may be able to correct me however, seach in forced induction, youll find all u need to know

I heard that bar & plate coolers have better cooling properties, where as tube and fin coolers have better flow properties. (or is it the other way around?) A lot of jap drag cars use the tube and fin ones (HKS and other jap coolers have names like 'drag spec') where as cars that compete in endurance events apparently use mostly bar and plate ones. The GTR ones are tube and fin.

I heard that bar & plate coolers have better cooling properties, where as tube and fin coolers have better flow properties. (or is it the other way around?) A lot of jap drag cars use the tube and fin ones (HKS and other jap coolers have names like 'drag spec') where as cars that compete in endurance events apparently use mostly bar and plate ones. The GTR ones are tube and fin.

That's right.

For street driving you don't need the better cooling because you aren't on boost that much.

i have a hybrid fmic and that is great (bar n plate)

the theory is bar and plates dont flow as much air due to the dont have rounded surfaces like tube and fin which bounce the air into the cooler but in terms of actuall cooling, the bar and plate is better even though it doesnt flow as much air through...

ben...

I don't think there's really much of a muchness between bar & plate VS tube & fin on the street. If you're into competitions/drags then you would probably look into which is more suited for a particular application but just for street driving either is fine. I've got a Greddy one (tube & fin) and it rocks!

Tube and fin flow better but not such a good temp drop, bar and plate have a better cooling effect but the design of the core limits flow capabilities of the outside air trying to get thru the core. So my chioce will always be the apexi GT spec intercooler, it combines a bar and plate style core with a uniquely shaped runner. Its actually angled on the front edge of each runner to help direct the outside air thru the core.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah yes but were you responsible? In the time I've had it (just before Christmas) I spun off the track twice and drove into things twice, so four separate incidents.. in two outings. Luckily I have a full OEM GTR front end to put on which is hopefully not a precursor for further, future, more expensive mistakes to come. It is some consolation that anyone who would want to buy my Altia bar would have to paint it anyway, the guards, too. (if they can get over the asymmetry). Hopefully over the weekend I will disassemble and see how badly things are bent. From what it looks like, the headlight has actually just been pushed back and bent the headlight support (which .. somehow... crushed the guard in). I guess the headlight plastic is strong stuff.
    • These things happen And I believe "we, the people, who modify stuff, and actually use it, cannot have nice things" It's just a shame that it happened so soon after paint  I still win the award for quickly destroying newly painted panels I think, as my car came back from the paint shop all nice and shiny, until about 4 hours later when the boot was destroyed by a wayward locker that was blown around by the wind.... What doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and poorer.....dooh
    • This. And also, the rotor thickness is constrained by the calipers. Cannot be much thicker, if at all. Cannot be much thinner, if at all. New rotors are....fairly cheap. Turbo calipers can still be picked up for sensible money. Arguably, the best thing is to get R32 calipers and put them on mount spacers on 324mm discs. That's about the cheapest and easiest way to get quite large brakes that are essentially bolt on. And that's despite maintaining for years that the R32 calipers are not the best choice because they seem to be more flexy and creaky than the others. If you were prepared to put up with nasty little NA sliding calipers, these will still seem like Brembos by comparison.
    • A quick Google said 297mm..
    • Why would you not fit the biggest possible brakes?
×
×
  • Create New...