Wiring Diagrams

[QWK32]

Series 1 or 2? the R34 ecu pinout works for the S2 Stagea.

[chef_stagea]

hey mate. a guy called andrew from ABM securities here in adelaidde has done 2 stageas in the past few weeks. he may be of some help. how ever id say ull have dramas with ppl posting up... coz lets face it if people know how do dissable our allarms... y have them ?? but we'll give it a shot!

[GTS4onP]

it was from a series 1 stagea rs4, so it had a series2 non-neo rb25det

[KiwiRS4T]

it was from a series 1 stagea rs4, so it had a series2 non-neo rb25det

The R34 pinout in the DIY section in the stickies above works for S1 Stagea ecu (if you have the most common ecu: OV300 - there are two others with slight differences.

[Skyline_Chief]

I have a 98 Series 1 and a 97 Wreaker I'm using for parts. Both wire looms going to the ECU are they same and neither matches the Stagea (R34) Pin outs I've found on this or any other board. The part number for the 97 ECU ends with 0V300, the 98, 0V310, both Hitachi Boards. I also have a later 98 ECU, part # 0V810 (a JECS Board) and a IMPUL ECU (JECS). I've been playing with this wiring issue for the last week because I want an ECU I can use with NISTUNE.

I've ordered the Shop Manuals for both Series (in Japanese of course) to solve this issue once and for all. A soon as I get the pinouts translated I'll post the results.

By the way, I'm in the US Navy stationed in Yokosuka Japan (just south of Tokyo) so if anyone needs anything (info or parts) let my know.

[BensDR30]

By the way, I'm in the US Navy stationed in Yokosuka Japan (just south of Tokyo) so if anyone needs anything (info or parts) let my know.

Welcome!

I think you'll find this board has the largest collection of English-speaking Stagea owners in the world.

[DaveB]

...

I've ordered the Shop Manuals for both Series (in Japanese of course) to solve this issue once and for all. A soon as I get the pinouts translated I'll post the results.

...

Hi there Mike! Second what BensDR30 said... and I think translated pinouts of the ECUs from the service manuals would be awesome, I've never seen them around... although, for series 2, I think they are the same as R34. But perhaps we shall soon see...

[KiwiRS4T]

I have a 98 Series 1 and a 97 Wreaker I'm using for parts. Both wire looms going to the ECU are they same and neither matches the Stagea (R34) Pin outs I've found on this or any other board. The part number for the 97 ECU ends with 0V300, the 98, 0V310, both Hitachi Boards. I also have a later 98 ECU, part # 0V810 (a JECS Board) and a IMPUL ECU (JECS). I've been playing with this wiring issue for the last week because I want an ECU I can use with NISTUNE.

I've ordered the Shop Manuals for both Series (in Japanese of course) to solve this issue once and for all. A soon as I get the pinouts translated I'll post the results.

By the way, I'm in the US Navy stationed in Yokosuka Japan (just south of Tokyo) so if anyone needs anything (info or parts) let my know.

So far nistune do not make a chip for the S1 Stagea to my knowledge. A number of people in Australia and some one here in Auckland NZ fit a daughterboard and then a tunable chip (I am getting one fitted to my new S1 Stagea) but so far I believe none of them are prepared to share their software so that you can tune it yourself - you have to get them to do it (cost to me NZ$800 fit and tune).

Regarding ecus. The most common is the oldest S1 which is OV300. There were later versions OV301 and then OV310. There are small differences (I don't know what they are but they are important to people trying to fit PFC computers). Despite these differences they and the looms all look the same although I imagine the programming would differ from R34 skyline to S1 stageas although the pinouts are near identical.

I have Japanese workshop manuals for R34 Skyline and C34 Stagea. I can't read Japanese but i can see small differences between the Skyline (from the Manual) and the Stagea. Strangely the Stagea Manual has a discrepancy between the pinout chart on ppB54, B55 and the wiring diagram on pB52 as regards the numbering of the injector drive signals.

However the R34 Skyline ECU pinouts downloaded from the DIY / How to/FYI section in the stickies above accords almost exactly with my Japanese Manual and all the important wires are correct enabling me to install my SITC, SAFC, Jaycar EIBC, Greddy speed cut contoller, and Inovate LM2 so for most tasks it is adequate. Perhaps for installing a new computer it has to be 100% but then my Stagea manual is not 100% either. Perhaps if you can get precisely the correct manual for the OV300 ecu we will get 100% accuracy but then unless such a manual differentiates between the OV300 and the later 301 and 310 then maybe more manuals will be needed - or maybe there are technical bulletins with the differences. Otherwise I would suggest the pinout on our website is the closest so far with correct labelling of power supplies, earths, CAS, AFM, O2 sensor etc and it would be a matter of testing the circuits one by one to confirm the unknowns!

[Skyline_Chief]

Kiwi, thanks for the input. I've talked with Matt @ NISTUNE about my ECU issue. What I did was get a late 98 ECU (0V810, JECS board) and plug it to my stock loom. Immediately upon ignition I get a check engine light. Using Nissan Data Scan, I get a code 26, no boost sensor pressure. The car idles alright, about 500 rpm, a little low but steady. I take the car out for a drive and at first it drives o.k., again idle is a little low and tranny acts like it's slipping a little. Then after about 5 minutes the transmission selector switch (Power/Snow) "Power" light comes on and stays on regardles of which way it's push. Also, the tranny acts like it has a 3000 rpm stall speed and moves slow until the car gets to around 50 kph. I have an IMPUL tuned ECU, which is supposed to be for a 98 Stagea but the car acts the same way. I put the stock ECU back and all is normal. The pin out I got from the board shows pin 47 as the boost sensor reference and that its a red wire. The wire i have going to both the 97/98 ECU connectors is red/brown. If I can get a wire loom adapter harness I'll be able to test each wire and get a stock reference.

I've got an HKS Fcon iS which is tuned but I can't do anything myself (got to love HKS.......) that's why I'm looking into the NISTUNE. Matt supposed to have a board out next year sometime which Series 1 and R33 will be able to use but I'd like to find a solution before then. So my idea was to get a JECS ECU, figure out how to make it work in stock form then get a Nistune board. It may be more then a wiring looms issue, i.e. the JECS is mapped dirrently then the Hitachi boards but i'd figured I'd work the simpler issues first.

Until I have specific pin outs for each ECU and Series 1 and 2 Wire looms I'm at a stand still. That's why I ordered the manuals. Any ideas?

Cheers!

[KiwiRS4T]

Kiwi, thanks for the input. I've talked with Matt @ NISTUNE about my ECU issue. What I did was get a late 98 ECU (0V810, JECS board) and plug it to my stock loom. Immediately upon ignition I get a check engine light. Using Nissan Data Scan, I get a code 26, no boost sensor pressure. The car idles alright, about 500 rpm, a little low but steady. I take the car out for a drive and at first it drives o.k., again idle is a little low and tranny acts like it's slipping a little. Then after about 5 minutes the transmission selector switch (Power/Snow) "Power" light comes on and stays on regardles of which way it's push. Also, the tranny acts like it has a 3000 rpm stall speed and moves slow until the car gets to around 50 kph. I have an IMPUL tuned ECU, which is supposed to be for a 98 Stagea but the car acts the same way. I put the stock ECU back and all is normal. The pin out I got from the board shows pin 47 as the boost sensor reference and that its a red wire. The wire i have going to both the 97/98 ECU connectors is red/brown. If I can get a wire loom adapter harness I'll be able to test each wire and get a stock reference.

I've got an HKS Fcon iS which is tuned but I can't do anything myself (got to love HKS.......) that's why I'm looking into the NISTUNE. Matt supposed to have a board out next year sometime which Series 1 and R33 will be able to use but I'd like to find a solution before then. So my idea was to get a JECS ECU, figure out how to make it work in stock form then get a Nistune board. It may be more then a wiring looms issue, i.e. the JECS is mapped dirrently then the Hitachi boards but i'd figured I'd work the simpler issues first.

Until I have specific pin outs for each ECU and Series 1 and 2 Wire looms I'm at a stand still. That's why I ordered the manuals. Any ideas?

Cheers!

I myself am going the standard ecu (OV300) with a daughterboard installed and then a tunable chip. Toshi (in Australia but on the SAU forum) does this in Australia but i believe he sources his daughterboards from Japan so maybe he can point you to a tuner in Japan who can do it for you.

He will also write a chip for your car based on your description of its modifications (if any) but I am not a great fan of these approximations although they do work for some people and you will have to get another chip if you change the specifications,

A better alternative (if you want to spend the money...I haven't got it) is to watch this forum where there is a Stagea being fitted with a Link (NZ version) or Vipec (AU version) computer. It is alleged that this will be fully OK with the auto and as the Link/Vipec has a lot more computing power and options (and is being currently developed and supported) than the Apexi Power FC I am hopefull it will perform.

Good luck!

[sideshow]

hi all

has anyone had much luck on this issue

i finally got time to do some research with an r34 auto ecu with nistune on it fitted to a s1 stagea

found th ecommon boost sensor missing error easy fix need to fit new wire into harness on ecu

then drove it and got the auto problem like described above

will do bit more research this week to see if its physically doable or money wise if its doable

as transmission migh need to be pulled apart to see if it can be done

or if im lucky the wires are theere and would just need to be lengthened and wired up to ecu

[stageaharts]

How much does an S2 auto box cost? Surely that would fix the auto light problem and you'd have tiptronic! Suck and see:)

[KiwiRS4T]

hi all

has anyone had much luck on this issue

i finally got time to do some research with an r34 auto ecu with nistune on it fitted to a s1 stagea

found th ecommon boost sensor missing error easy fix need to fit new wire into harness on ecu

then drove it and got the auto problem like described above

will do bit more research this week to see if its physically doable or money wise if its doable

as transmission migh need to be pulled apart to see if it can be done

or if im lucky the wires are theere and would just need to be lengthened and wired up to ecu

My solution (done by an electronics whizz, not by me) was a chipped R32 ecu copgybacked onto my OV300. The R32 does all the engine management and the old ecu runs the auto and the vct. At first the auto didn't work but Andy just kept making more connections til it did. A very time consuming solution and not really recommended. Next my auto starting playing up so i got a GTR box and for a total of about $2000 parts and labour i now have a manual so the ecu possibilities are opened wide !

[sideshow]

i know what the problem with the auto is

the s1 doesnt have wiring for a certain sensor for the auto that the r34 ecu needs

not sure if the s2 auto has the sensor

but its not in the actual wiring

so if the auto has the sensor all it means is adding the wire

if the sensor is not in the auto then its too big a job to worry about

im trying to find a fix that wont cost the earth

[stageaharts]

Hmmm, perhaps if you find out what sort of signal the ecu expects from the sensor, i.e.: if it is looking for a particular voltage level, you could make up an appropriate 'clamp' which constantly feeds the ecu that info? In much the same way as any other voltage based ecu fix; zener diodes, hks fcd etc etc

[sideshow]

no trick will fix the prob cause its a speed sort of signal

and i think the s1 boxes dont have it

[stageaharts]

Scratch that idea then

[sideshow]

yes at this moment the r34 auto 4wd ecu requires an extra signal for the auto to work properly

and so far there is no easy fix so i would not waste time on it