Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys!

My line has nearly reached 100,000 kms and i'm looking around for a place that does a good job at servicing it. What is involved within a 100k service? What is the price I should watch out for, incase I get ripped off. Is tuning involved within a 100k service? Any recommendation would be appreciated, or any experiences encountered.

thanks guys! :rant:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56077-100k-service-comparison/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

replace all belts...

water pump...

all fluids inc diff, box, engine, brakes and power steering

drain the coolant and replace

oil filter, fuel filter

spark plugs

what else am i forgetting?

Just booked my 'line in for its 100k service (done 93k) at FTG Nissan... gonna cost about $650... this seems to be about the normal price I've found, after searching the numerous threads on this topic.

What are others thoughts/experiences? :D

have they provided you with a list of things they will do?

A word of warning cheap quotes mean cheap oils

A skyline gearbox should run two types of oils if you want them to last:

Redline shockproof blue- $150 retail for 5 ltrs

Syntrax 75-90w + teflon treatment =$110 from Bursons, autobarn etc

Good quuality engine oil- (everybody should know about this already.)

Diff oils- Same as gearbox either redline or Syntrax

In fact if you go to the redline website and type in your engine and car type it will list all the different oils, product no's etc and when they should be changed.

You shouldn't take any chances and if you can afford redline your better off buying it as some of the more experienced skyline owners will know just how expensive taking a shortcuts on maintience can be!

The redline website also lists all the shops that sell it in Melb- and Aust

From UAS Major Service Guide:

Systems Check, reset memory, check all sensors and check for any fault codes.

Systems cleaner, (pressurised can with long bendy hose inserted in various locations to clean carbon build up in plenum chamber and tops of valves and ports as well as PCV and throttle body (s)

On line injection clean.

New Iridium Spark Plugs.

Compression test.

Water Pump. Optional N1 pump for Skylines and GTR

Thermostat

Cam belt

Drive belts.

Oil Filter

Fuel Filter

Check cam and crank seals for leaks

Check cam belt pullies

Check electrics, exhaust, suspension. Coolant hoses.

Gear oil 75w- 90 or if auto trans service extra $100.

Engine, gearbox and power steering get Uniglide treatment.

Clutch and brake fluid flushed and bleed.

Radiator and engine flush.

Clean and treat battery terminals.

Clean terminals to injector plugs, ignition coils.

Spray lubricant on throttle linkages and other.

Check and adjust water sprayers and additive used

Lubricate door hinges and strikers, bonnet latch, boot hinges, aerial mast.

Check and tighten sub frame and suspension and cross member bolts etc.

Tyre pressures checked and corrected.

Air filter replaced or if performance filters cleaned and re oiled.

B Garage in Syd quoted me $1100 for a 100,000k service for my dad's ceffy. My R32's almost at the 100,000k mark as well, but I guess I'll do most of the work on that myself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...