Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i never really thought about an RX-7 as an option for a car, but i was looking at j-specs auction results, and some prices at places like carpoint.com.au...and the two cars are sort of priced the same...RX-7 tending to be a little more.

For those who know about the RX-7's, or better still, driven or driving one....any thoughts on them compared to the R34 GT-T's would be great, like reliability, servicing, stuff like that. They got rotary engines yeah?? I've seen some listed as Twin Turbos, do they come with 1 turbo? May as well get a GTR for the price of some of the Twin Turbos. :(

I know this is a Skyline forum, but the RX-7's do look damn sexy, don't know how much of a punch they pack, but i've heard some good things :):( so yeah, any opinions would be much appreciated. :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

rx-7 PURE SEX!!

Makes the r34 look plain!

My mates dad has a newish one in red and I love it, I take my mates around to see it all the time and they love it.

Unbeliveable speed. But apparently you have to have the engine re-built quite often, so that could make it expensive to maintain.

But hey a skylines a skyline.

Greg. :devfu:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-84984
Share on other sites

It's more myth that rotor motors need to be rebuilt everytime you gun it. The Series 6 RX7 is a very well engineered car. This myth mainly comes from the older series 4 and 5 turbo 13B's.

I looked at them when I was looking for my car (Not import, Mazda delivered). The main problem is trying to find one in good nick. They also have a problem with the turbo's, something cracking. Read that somewhere.

But being fair, I'd take the RX7 if I was after a track car cause they handle very well, and in my opinion, better brakes (even though it's the same calipers) than the 32 GTR. Probably to do with the weight. But for an everyday car, the R34.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85000
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rs73

why would rotary engines need rebuilt quite often?

The same reason any performance engine needs rebuilding quite often : the driver is careless.

Rotory engines have many different kinds of metals in their construction and warm up is very critical to getting a long run out of them.

They also consume oil, they have a metering pump that injects very small quantities into the rotor housings. You can take the pump off tho' and run a small amount of two stroke oil in the fuel tank ( then you really do have a lawn mower engine).

They don't rev reliably to 10,000rpm stock. There is no point reving past 8500rpm on most configurations bar the peripheral port and large bridge port engines.Rev them hard when cold and they won't last long either.

I have had quite a few chookers and they are very reliable when cared for correctly. In fact the rotory is well know for its reliable nature in racing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85018
Share on other sites

thanks for the opinions guys,

hahahah, "sex on wheels" and "PURE SEX", i think that is the general consensus of most ppl here......they definitely look damn fine

yeah, the compliance for the RX-7 at J-Spec is like $9,500 :eek:

but i think local is the way to go, agree with ur there tlai909.

so u can't bring in pre 1999 RX-7's under the new import scheme's??? Or u never could??

i even try and look after my little pulsar i've got, 1.6ltr 4 cylinder. Try and warm her up everytime i drive her, but i'm not exactly sure how long for?? When u warm a car up, do u rev it a little for like 5 - 10 mins, or u just turn it on and leave it for a little bit?? What's the correct thing to do when warming up a car... :confused:

10,000 Revs!!! I ....don't think i'll have to worry abou that, whatever i get, i don't think i'll be going that hard. But i think u have a point there Silver Arrowz, daily drive, the R34 GT-T might be the go, and it would be newer too most probably.

I had a quick search on google, but i couldn't really find much info on the RX-7, did see the "Series....X" thing come up a few times, does that have to do with year models?? I know there is the Twin Turbo, but do they come with anything else, or is that it?? Like N/A or Single Turbo??

thanks for the input guys, appreciate it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85056
Share on other sites

Guest tgriffin

Welcome to the club, I have a Pulsar too :P Skyline has been ordered tho!!!!

Originally posted by SS8_Gohan

i even try and look after my little pulsar i've got, 1.6ltr 4 cylinder. Try and warm her up everytime i drive her, but i'm not exactly sure how long for?? When u warm a car up, do u rev it a little for like 5 - 10 mins, or u just turn it on and leave it for a little bit?? What's the correct thing to do when warming up a car... :confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85077
Share on other sites

lucky bastard!! i've gotta wait a whole year to get my car...whateva it is, most prob a R34 GT-T, or maybe late model R33....but the R34 has got more goodies standard, and it's newer and rarer. Plus the Neo RB25DET, 206kw.... :uh-huh: :uh-huh:

So u don't know how to warm a car up properly?....:confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85099
Share on other sites

Go for the RX-7 they are better looking and have a lot of go...

These things have all the right curves and pack a huge punch where it is needed. This also gets you away from the trend that is becoming of the R34...

Good luck with whatever you get and all i can say is lucky bastard...

Have fun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85139
Share on other sites

If you want to know about RX-7s join up at www.nopistons.com. Some of the guys there really know their stuff. Useful links as well.

Like Rev210 said mainly you just have to warm them up correctly and make sure you change the oil frequently, more often than a piston motor.

The FD models are the least reliable of them all though. They are prone to vacuum leaks because of the complex sequential twin turbo system and sensitive to overheating, again because of the twin turbos; the manifold is very short, and there isn't a lot of underhood space, so there is a lot of thermal stress on the motor.

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85217
Share on other sites

RX7's are farking awesome. I own a GTS-t and have been in a S6 Batmobile. Handling and power, it absolutely kills the Skyline.

The Type R's (later models) have 206 kw and less than 1200kg to pull so they are insanely quick for a stock car. They handle like they are on rails. Take any corner than my T can do and add 20kph, easy for the bat . THey also look ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo sexy. Buy one and you will get plenty of ***** *grin*

But there are few reasons why I didnt get a batmobile.

1. They feel a bit tinny and flimsy compared with my lump-o-lard skyline.

2. They are a bit cramped inside.

3. They sound like a duck on steroids with a big-bore

4. They can be quite expensive to fix if the last ownere didnt look after them

But most of all.. THEY SUCK GAS LIKE YOU WOULDNT *(&@#)($*)@#(*$)(#*$ BELIEVE!!!!! It would cost so much to drive the damn thing around..

Not just me. EVO magazine in the UK quoted the TT Supra and the R32 GTR as 28mpg, while the Batmobile averaged... get this 17mpg!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5612-r34-gt-t-or-rx-7/#findComment-85242
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...