Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Finally got the tyre pressures right and me sorted on the drag racing thing and late in the night we cracked the 10's last night at WSID. Our second event at drags, and it was on street tyres.

Exact time was 10.894 1.690 60 foot and 130.85mph Ambient temp 22C.

The run after that did a 1.597 60 foot but then missed second gear and then ran out of fuel and night was over anyway.

Off to get a roll cage then will be back next year.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/56250-zed-with-gtr-bits-108/
Share on other sites

Big congrats mate. I bet you're rubbing it in large time on the Zed-Boat forums. Were you the first in your little bunch to go 10 sec? Was there a wager or what? :P

Can you confirm the type and size rubber you were using? I can't remember what you said but I think you wanted to run 16" BF Comp T/A's?!?!?

Well done again mate. Are any of the other Zed's racing for the 10's workshop cars? I hope you're rubbing it in!

Adrian

Comp TA street radials 275 50 15 .

Rubbing it in everywhere especially the doubters. I called Jason at Street machines to tell him I knocked him off the fence by only 4 thousands of a sec. Will be in HPI in a few months in the back as they have a delay printing.

so you did crack the 400rwkw mark john, I thought you were gonna ateempt it with 360ish.

Congrats all round, esp to your tuner :)

perhaps I should alter this image now...

sydneykid_tug_john.jpg

Guest two.06l
Comp TA street radials 275   50  15 .

Rubbing it in everywhere especially the doubters.  I called Jason at Street machines to tell him I knocked him off the fence by only 4 thousands of a sec.  Will be in HPI in a few months in the back as they have a delay printing.

Well done John from the DIRTgarage crew, is your cage "only" cams and fia approved. It seems a bit of a joke that such a well constructed and fitted cage does not comply. ANDRA shame bloody shame. Paul...DIRTgarage.

Well done John from the DIRTgarage crew, is your cage "only" cams and fia approved. It seems a bit of a joke that such a well constructed and fitted cage does not comply. ANDRA shame bloody shame. Paul...DIRTgarage.

I agree. :bs!:

Congrats on the awsome time, John.

Yes it is a bit odd I can tear around turn 1 at Eastern Creek at near 200ks but need a cage to go down a straight and with the walls so close. Not saying CAMS are slack but ANDRA a bit strict, but then hey I have seen some of these hectic sick bro drag racer gear knob drivers drive. Cage I have is only a Cusco bolt in job. Getting the Groove Rider Fabrications special, including the strut tower tie in support. Yes still mainly a circuit car and will sacrifice a little weight for better handling for circuit.

Funky Monkey love the Zed Barge thing. Big fat and wide but with grunt.

Wreckedhead I am pretty confident I will run a 9 in my circuit car before you do and not with current motor, it is for sale as going VQ35 500rwkw and alloy block and 100kg less weight. I will be waiting for you in the 9 sec club. Have you even run a 10 and not on Grand Turismo??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...