What Should i do?

[BLK R33 GTST]

Hi all

i have got a 95 R33 GTST, with Apexi BOV, 3inch turbo back exhaust, Pod filter with heat shield and running standard boost. i want to know where do i go from here.

do i get a FMIC (Hybrid)

do i get a upgrade computer (Apexi Power FC)

or is there something else that i have over looked that you recommend

Keep in mind i want more power, but am new skylines and do not much about cars, although i'm trying to learn.

and can i get more boost pressure from my car as is with buying a boost controller....if so how?

[fane]

not gonna feel effects of a fmic... unless you get something to tune it like you say a pfc.... but a safc is cheaper and should be fine for your mods so far...thats if you get a fmic...

my suggestion is a ~$60 bleed valve and run 10psi instead of stock then you feel some serious power difference from stock

[lwells]

I see you have done the normal induction and exhaust mods, so adding a FMIC would be a good idea. However as fane said you then have the problem of tuning: S1 R33 GTS-ts are also notorious for having shocking fuel economy if the standard ECU is left in place (ie. no PFC or SAFC) once you do intake + exhaust + FMIC.

Bit of a catch-22. Maybe try the FMIC first, then save for the PFC. Or do it the other way round.. doesn't really matter in the end

Lucien.

[BLK R33 GTST]

Thanks Guys..........this maybe a stupid question but what does SAFC stand for, what are they worth.....

Fane you said to get a bleed valve, are they easy to install yourself? is it simply a plug n play on does it require playing around with to get it work?

[BLK R33 GTST]

also......what the benefit of an oil catch can.............is worth buying one now for what i have

[lwells]

SAFC = Super Air Flow Converter.

Benefit of a catch can is that it 'catches' oil/gas blowby, at least in theory: if is a decent catch can it will have some sort of baffle that will seperate the oil/crud from the air. This stops the oil/crud from recirculating back through your engine.

LW.

[grigor]

If you want to keep it in one piece, first item should have been the biggest cooler you can afford. Summer is almost here, turbo engines really drop power in the heat and the standard cooler is a joke. It's the best insurance you can buy against pinging or overboost, which is what will happen with bleed valves etc until you can afford a decent aftermarket ecu.

Not much good having a cool sounding BOV with no ring lands left.

There is a well worn path to making power in the R33 in Zoom magazine.

It's pretty spot on as my son's 33 has 170rwkw with cooler, exhaust, blended dump and filter. Now it's run out of fuel so that's fuel pump, regulator, injectors, Apexi pfc and boost control. Then it will be turbo time.

Pretty logical steps.

Stay cool.

[Bass Junky]

Yep.

Cooler and PFC and bleed valve.

but, opposed to grigor, I would say PFC first. you will get much more bang for your buck, and to deal with the cooler, get your hands on a standard R34 GTT cooler which is good for up to 190 - 200 kW and unless you are on boost all the time, should be fine.

then when you have the money get the big cooler, sell the small one and Bob's your uncle.

Power benifit from FMIC alone, maybe 8-10 rwkW, PFC alone, more like 25rwkW

BASS OUT

[Guilty]

umm im sorta in the same shoes as BLK R33 GTST

how exactly will the PFC actually increase the power output the car?

Has it got something to do with tuning the AFR?

[fane]

pfc can change ignition and the fuel maps (afrs)

safc can only change the afrs....by tricking the computer with different airflow readings...

Super Air Flow Converter

www.apexi.com

i would suggest safc over pfc only for price....

bleed valve just snip tube, block stock bleed thingo i think and 2ez your running 10psi with a good fuel map (safc).

so hot weather wont hurt you car at all because of the nice afrs from your safc...

a fmic by itself wont do much, a pfc isnt worth it until you get bigger mods....and if your not planning to do them then i wouldnt bother with pfc and i would just get a safc.

my mods that in my sig is what i called stage 1 in performance....cheap bolts ons and a safc...which i put in myself...then tuned by me and my mechanic with thingo in exhaust to monitor the afrs....my car never knocked.....and i just pulled off my turbo and there is no shaft play.....and i ran 13psi for quite a while....with a fmic ofcourse....always let car warmup before boosting helps look after your turbo and making sure it doesn knock (good fuelmap and safc can monitor)

my suggestion as i said before, is mods below if thats where you are gonna stop....if you are getting a bigger turbo and stuff like that later i would get the pfc to save you the money later on.

EDIT: Mods arnt in sig anymore, so here they are...

note: not including suspension and clutch and crap like that

ebc (short term, bleed valve)

pod

turbo back

safc2

fmic

13psi (10 without fmic)

i think thats it

running 10psi and no fmic or safc i got 13.8 down the 1/4

running 13psi and fmic and safc with about 11.8 afrs (no knocking) i got 13.2 down the 1/4

i would have been happy with that but lost licence and had some spare cash so i got a hi-flow...and need some more tuning so gotta get the pfc

if you want anymore info heaps of us have been through that stage and we can help...

[BLK R33 GTST]

FANE,

Can you help me, i've got two prices for SAFC, once was $170, 5 knob...whatever that means, and the other was $450.

What should i be looking for in a SAFC? brand, specifications.....please keep in mind in know nothing..................

[Bass Junky]

Forget about the 5 knob thing.

It's very very old.

Best value would be to fork out the moolah for a PowerFC first before anything else.

Then when you do more stuff, you don't need to change your management to cope with it.

[Bass Junky]

If I were you, I'd take advantage of lwells group buy

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=56076

Wont get them any cheaper, especially with the hand controller.

[fane]

not sure he is going to mod enough in the future to warrent him buying a pfc...

there are 2 versions of safcs really to explain simply....

safc1= 1 map and no knock sensor.

safc2= 2 maps and knock sensor.

safc2 is definately a better unit...

[Bass Junky]

Fane.

I figure that but.

Let's work it out on a bang for buck scale....

PowerFC

Expected result 25rwkW

Cost inc tuning $1500 (group buy and $500 to tune)

= $60 per kilowatt.

SAFC

Expected result 10rwkW

Cost inc tuning $650 ($450 and $200 to tune)

= $65 per kilowatt.

So bang for your buck, and outright increase in grunt. PFC has it.

[fane]

i disagree

400 max for safc unit with install done by himself...and 100 bucks for a quick dyno tune which i got done for 50 bucks... so that makes it 500 max.... which makes it $50 per kw...

[Bass Junky]

Fair enough.

but I had my PowerFC tuned at a local tuner last week for $185.

Is wasn't sure of the prices in Sydney.

Extrapolate and you get $47.50 per kilowatt

Well, as the saying goes.......... Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

BASS OUT

[fane]

safc2 = 400 max and 100 tuning (i got mine done for 50) so thats 500

500 / 10 = $50 per kw