Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had my power FC installed and tuned yesterday. (I have attached pics of the dyno readout.)

havnt installed a front mount yet and I am still running it on standard boost(these mods will be next). I reckon I should install the intercooler before increasing the boost to keep the intake temperatures lower. Would like to have had it all done but the $$ arent earnt yet.

I gained 33.1kw (150.2kw up to 183.3kw) from installing and tuning the power fc and it is great to drive, more responsive and better on fuel. Also got more visual options and interaction with the commander and no limiter!!

other mods so far;

-3" stainless front/dump pipe with high flow cat & 4.5"tip

-pod

-bov

car - R33 GTST(rb25det)

wow that is pretty impressive.....

30kwz.......

hey gr33dy how much did it cost u for the dyno tune?

and did u install the pfc urself or did u just get the mechanic to do it??

i think ive prettyy much been convinced to get one now lol..thanks for all the info guys

you should get similar results as me with the mods that you have done already.

had the power fc installed and tuned by EVO motorsports in Canberra.

had a couple of issues though.

I had a service done a short while ago and I replaced the plugs with NGK iridiums to suit RB25.

I learnt yesterday that the best NGK iridium plugs for the RB25 engine are actually the plugs to suit the RB20, as they dont run as hot (think its got to do with aussie temperatures and fuel octane levels)

Total for the install and tune was around $500 - your probably looking between $400 - $600

make sure you have newish plugs, fuel filter and air filter or element.

Also have some good fuel in your car - like BP ultimate.

I reckon youll be happy with the outcome. Good bang for your buck!!

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...